Landy Security :(

Woo Hoo! · Apr 10, 2008

My "Sugar" is an '83 110, and I'm ALWAYS worried about locking it ~ TBH, I don't bother round here, but if I have to go into town...

I've got the sliding windows in the back (useless for locking), and the main doors aren't brilliant either ~

Does anyone have any solution to make my girlie safer please! X

Thanks xx

Take5 · Apr 10, 2008

Quick release steering wheel? Tracker? Slightly mad rabid Rotty? Variation on Smoke Cloak, but using Nitrous Oxide instead?

bingreed · Apr 10, 2008

I keep a strip of wood in the window runners to prevent them sliding. OK, it ain't high tech, but it'll stop an opportunist.

Oddie · Apr 10, 2008

Battery isolator switch in a subtle place beats the pants off of engine immobilisers!

edbell2005 · Apr 10, 2008

odenne said:
Battery isolator switch in a subtle place beats the pants off of engine immobilisers!

ode, i'm interested in this for my 90, wont stop people robbin the contents but cud stop em robbin th landy, is this a big job?somethin expensive?

Oddie · Apr 10, 2008

No, it's REALLY cheap!

Get one of these...
PM763 Battery Isolator Switch
drill a hole somewhere in the battery box...under drivers seat is a fave or anywhere else so long as it's quite near the positive lead and hook it up! Just remember to unplug it when you get out and it's save as houses! Also means there's no chance of the battery draining if you leave the lights or anything else on!

edbell2005 · Apr 10, 2008

churs!gonna get that done soon.

Grippa · Apr 10, 2008

Got wun on the frunt of the passenger seat box (cuz me batree's in there). If I tek the red key wiv me yer'd nevva spot it & if yer did it'd tek yer a fekin age ter bypass it.

RAZ8550TDI · Apr 10, 2008

that'll do the job!

Oddie · Apr 10, 2008

Grippa said:
Got wun on the frunt of the passenger seat box (cuz me batree's in there). If I tek the red key wiv me yer'd nevva spot it & if yer did it'd tek yer a fekin age ter bypass it.

Eggzackly the same as mine - dint know what it was when i first got the landy (thought it were a drain plug or summat!!

) but use it every time now! Took it in for MOT last month and the garage had to phone me up coz they didn't know how to start it!!!

bustersbus · Apr 10, 2008

odenne said:
No, it's REALLY cheap!

Get one of these...
PM763 Battery Isolator Switch
drill a hole somewhere in the battery box...under drivers seat is a fave or anywhere else so long as it's quite near the positive lead and hook it up! Just remember to unplug it when you get out and it's save as houses! Also means there's no chance of the battery draining if you leave the lights or anything else on!

Just a querie Odie, are ye sure it's the positive lead? It's just that me other bus has an isolator and it's hooked upto the negative. And just about everything ye do in the paynes manwell, says to disconnect the negative battery lead

Oddie · Apr 11, 2008

dunno. mine's on the + i guess if it were on the - then everything would effectively still be live if there was an earth.

Trewey · Apr 11, 2008

odenne said:
dunno. mine's on the + i guess if it were on the - then everything would effectively still be live if there was an earth.

Eh?
s'OK oddie - it is early in the morning after all.

Oddie · Apr 11, 2008

evenin! ...well. tis evenin and wot i sed is still true! If the switch was put on the negative lead then everything would still effectively be connected to the live, so it would only take something to earth or short to make it live...innit? If it's on the live lead, once it's off then so is everything else? got me comfoozd now, but thass wot ida thort?

Trewey · Apr 11, 2008

ffs, if the -ve terminal of the battery is isolated, how is the lectrickery gonna get back to the battery to make a circuit live - even if sommat is shorted to the chassis or bodywork?

in practical terms, it dunt matter which terminal you isolate.

Oddie · Apr 11, 2008

so point is...which one is it better to isolate? and why does Haynes always say Negative?

Sean · Apr 11, 2008

Treworgey 90 said:
ffs, if the -ve terminal of the battery is isolated, how is the lectrickery gonna get back to the battery to make a circuit live - even if sommat is shorted to the chassis or bodywork?

in practical terms, it dunt matter which terminal you isolate.

if you isolate the -ve all youd have to do is short from the -ve batt terminal to the chassis and it would negate the isolation

if youd isolated the +ve youd have to short to the outgoing leg on the isolator, which could be tricky - but ONLY if you put the isolator somewhere slightly less obvious that the passenger footwell

The Mad Hat Man · Apr 11, 2008

dont furget - if yu have fings like an alarm, clock, radio etc you need an isolator with a buypass link to continue to power those items, when you disconnect the main power bus.

have a read of this too.

Sean · Apr 11, 2008

The Mad Hat Man said:
dont furget - if yu have fings like an alarm, clock, radio etc you need an isolator with a buypass link to continue to power those items, when you disconnect the main power bus.

a 12v panel mounted 2a trip is ideal for this, wired across the isolator

Oddie · Apr 11, 2008

Sean said:
if you isolate the -ve all youd have to do is short from the -ve batt terminal to the chassis and it would negate the isolation

if youd isolated the +ve youd have to short to the outgoing leg on the isolator, which could be tricky - but ONLY if you put the isolator somewhere slightly less obvious that the passenger footwell

Thanks Sean, i think that's kinda what i was trying to say! Wish i were hello-Quent like that! The less "live" when isolated, the better?

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