"L" series or td4?

Hi

I am currently looking at buying a 5dr freelander and with the budget i have i keep seeing both the "L" series and td4 engines, which is the prefered engine?

I can get the "L" series on a 2000 plate with 104000
Or a td4 on a 2002 with 160000 for just a little bit more? so im unsure which to go for.

cheers andy

post 2001 is critical. TD4 of choice.

I was in your situation a while back and went for a TD4, it was a right dodgy vehicle and had been clocked, complete with a made up service history. It went back to the dealer and I took a bit longer to think about what to do.

During that time I saved an additional grand(ish) and bought a much nicer one that I'm very happy with.

So, if its a case of getting a good L series or a crap TD4, I'd go for the L. If you can save some more dosh, get a td4.

My initial budget was £2500-£3000, I paid £3900 for a good one (2002).

why do you say post 2001 is critical?

If ya must have a gaylander then TD4 is the least worst of them.

Just don't but a Risk'o disco If you want to drive in snow, they just fall off the road and carry the "small dick syndrome" badge. (see what I did, it's just a play on words).

Some on here have even gone on to develop the more serious "small and Ginger man syndrome" which ultimately leads to the "small and bald man syndrome" that some on here are already displaying the final stages of. God bless their small souls.

Rodd said:

Just don't but a Risk'o disco If you want to drive in snow, they just fall off the road and carry the "small dick syndrome" badge. (see what I did, it's just a play on words).

Some on here have even gone on to develop the more serious "small and Ginger man syndrome" which ultimately leads to the "small and bald man syndrome" that some on here are already displaying the final stages of. God bless their small souls.

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It's no good your gonna have to translate that in to meaning full gibberish... none of the internet translators seem to be able decipher it..

Its ok mate, just wait for the next normal person to help you out!

Both engines are great, that's not the area that need concern you. Lots of revisions in 2001 incl. Td4 engine, suspension, brakes, transmission/IRD ratio, ABS. as well as other equipement.

Look for the most comprehensive maintenance history, lowest miles but even then it's still a lottery. If you find/buy a good pre 2001 budgeting an extra £300 for a replacement VCU would be a sensible move to help allay any transmission worries.

and they say the "oldtimers" post meaningless and unhelpful drivel...

The Mad Hat Man said:

post 2001 is critical. TD4 of choice.

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ak86uk said:

why do you say post 2001 is critical?

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Chaser said:

Both engines are great, that's not the area that need concern you. Lots of revisions in 2001 incl. Td4 engine, suspension, brakes, transmission/IRD ratio, ABS. as well as other equip(e)ment.

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has been covered many times - have a browse or a :search:

Rodd said:

Its ok mate, just wait for the next normal person to help you out!

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Superb :hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi:

The TD4 actually came out in Autumn 2000

I have one registered in December 2000 on an X plate
It has all the gizmos and upgrades associated with post 2001 (but pre 2004)

The Nominal Manufacture Year is 2001

The principal is VIN No.s from 1A onwards
Gotta be real careful and buy spares according to VIN not registration date

and note, vehicles registered before 1st March 2001 are still taxed as PLG
thus, my TD4 Auto is quite a bit cheaper to tax

Mark2 said:

The TD4 actually came out in Autumn 2000

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Indeed, for specifications we're used to talking in model years....

Chaser said:

Indeed, for specifications we're used to talking in model years....

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But a lot of people don't even think, let alone talk correctly

even tho the td3 seems a more refined engine i cant find one that is in budget really. looks like its the "L" series engine to start my landrover days off..

Another view is that the L series is easier to repair as the engine has less electronics. They are good for 200,000 miles plus. In 2001 they changed the rear diff ratio to aleviate the vcu locking up. It certainly improved matters but not a total cure. Avoid the 1.8 Petrol due to head gasket failures. A full service history or lots of recipts, at least then you will have some idea how well it's been maintained. Also make sure that the propshaft is still in place. It seems a lot of people have had it removed to "mprove MPG" but normally means that the VCU/IRD or/both are faulty.

Brian