KV6 Freelander, no drive in any gear! 2WD conversion

Thnx for info. My plan is to make an additional ventilation hole on the bonnet.
Btw, this KV6 is used especially in the winter season and long trips.

i'd spend a lot of time beefing up the cooling system personally, including the t/stat

DKW said:

More info, pls?

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The problem, as I see it is as follows:
the K series engines are to run hot for thermal efficiency, but unfortunately this is compromised by poor cooling control and poor design causing localised hotspots and thermal increase after switch-off. This makes the engine susceptibility to overheating very critical.
Couple that with the lower cooling effect of a gas fuel compared with a liquid fuel and the prospective higher burn temperature, this could easily tip an engine over the edge.

i think more loose liners held in place by head pressure the biggest problem,no wonder head moves with it been clamped so little flat surface

DKW said:

Thnx for info. My plan is to make an additional ventilation hole on the bonnet.
Btw, this KV6 is used especially in the winter season and long trips.

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Making a hole in the bonnet will have a negligible affect on the engine temperature.
The K Series was deliberately made to run hot. This helps it burn fuel cleanly. A good place to start would be reduce the running temp to 90°C.

or just not run it?

Fit an ally thermostat housing - apparently it reduces running temp by about 10 degrees.

bukko said:

Fit an ally thermostat housing - apparently it reduces running temp by about 10 degrees.

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linky?

:nopics:

Any news on the original loss of drive fault?

Last saturday I removed the Jatco and the IRD. I concede I may have stated that i left the IRD in place, though I ended up removing it for better access. But, i left the subframe in place contrary to the RAVE which says to remove the subframe. As I removed the jatco and IRD, it was 2pm Saturday and about 32 degrees C outside so I retreated inside and havent yet opened up the casing or anything like that. I'm taking the Jatco to the gearbox specialist this Friday 7/2 and will keep you informed on how things proceed.

Ok, have transported the Jatco to Craigs Automotive Transmissions at Chipping Norton. At first sight, he looked and commented that I may have overdone it with the sealant when i sealed the fluid pan and the bellhousing... hmm wondering if bits of sealant break off inside can that cause a 100% no drive condition? He'll be taking it apart during the week and will contact me. I may have learnt an important lesson here and hoping everyone learns from me.. particularly the DIY gurus like myself.. I always thought more sealant was better so it never leaks... Then again, let's not jump to conclusions, will update when he rings.

Rtv sealant should be applied very sparingly. It's sole purpose is to fill microscopic imperfections in the 2 surfaces being joined. I use this ratio as a guide.
1mm diameter bead for every 10mm of joint face. This ratio pretty much eliminates overspill into the inner workings.

Mine was more than a 1mm bead, both for the large case that joins the bellhousing, and for the rear cover, and the fluid pan case. I guess I once remember sealing this water galley plate gasket on my 1.8 K Freelander a few years ago and it leaked, and to get to the thing again, i had to remove the exhaust manifold and a few other bits, so ever since then, i've usually put more than less... bad habit? Can that really lead to a no drive condition?...wow!

niccage said:

Mine was more than a 1mm bead, both for the large case that joins the bellhousing, and for the rear cover, and the fluid pan case. I guess I once remember sealing this water galley plate gasket on my 1.8 K Freelander a few years ago and it leaked, and to get to the thing again, i had to remove the exhaust manifold and a few other bits, so ever since then, i've usually put more than less... bad habit? Can that really lead to a no drive condition?...wow!

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With Rtv, less is best.
If Rtv has found its way into the pump or solenoid valves then it's a possibility for there to be no pressure where it's needed.

Update: I picked it up from the specialist yesterday and next weekend will install it.

They cleaned it out thoroughly of sealant, they also said that as the shaft seal was pushed back too far, it was allowing the transmission fluid to leak out thus no fluid in the pump and other components when required.

Come to think of it, it was leaking transmission fluid when i had fitted it last time.

They checked all the solenoids and sensors which they say are all fine. $600 isn't too bad for all that now that it's got a clean bill of health.

Next weekend i will install it.

Will post another update next weekend.

P.s - another update for my 1.8 K Freelander, the V6's smaller brother. I have removed the remote mounted thermostat and have done away with it completely - no thermostat..! When winter comes along here in Australia, i'll put the thermostat back in, back for now when we have days here of 30 degrees C plus, i find it provides better cooling. I will post a video of this shortly.

Did they give any explanation why 2 of the sensors measured open circuit? Would be interesting to know if you can measure them now and get proper values.

Hi, I rang them a few days ago and asked if they tested the sensors, they said they tested all the solenoids and they turned out fine. They said they checked all the cabling, wiring, connectors, etc, of the sensors and they seem fine. They said that there's no way to test the sensors unless the Jatco is inside the vehicle. They also said that they dont believe my sensors have failed and they mentioned that had they failed, that the Jatco should still have given me some drive, at least in Limp mode. I am seriously considering whether i should just order some and change them myself before i put the Jatco back in, what do you all think here? Or do I, this weekend, just go ahead and put the Jatco back in and see for myself? When i attempted to test them before, do take note that I did have the battery completely d/c, both positive and negative terminals, but i think i should probably have had left the positive cable connected and only removed the negative?

The sensors can be tested with the Jatco in or our of the car. The resistance test isn't a complete test but it does tell you if they're connected. I would agree it's not a full test as ideally you want to know what value they're reading back when measuring the gearbox (movement or temp). think of them as light bulbs. If you were to connect 2 wires to a bulb and measure the across both cables you would be measuring the resistance path down 1 cable, through the element in the bulb and back down the other cable. Worse case they could be considered as impedance rather than resistive. I don't see how they could be open circuit. If it were me I'd measure them before fitting the Jatco and take it from there.

Regarding the battery connection... I advised in ma video to disconnect the negative rather than the positive. Reason being if you catch the body work when disconnecting the negative with yer spanner etc it won't do any damage (unless it's live). When you disconnect the positive first and catch something like the bodywork you'll get a big rush or current and a spark. You don't need to disconnect the battery when doing the resistance test. I request it so the electrics are off so peeps shouldn't cause themselves any harm. One day some fool will do the resistance test with the engine running.

Thanks Hippo. Don't know if I'll be doing it this weekend as have some sort of fever.. sore throat, feeling weak, nose sometimes runny, 2 people at work had it a few days ago, just my luck.. the weekend... more like the weep'end! Though I meant to say, it's great how things happen for a reason... I'm glad i removed the Jatco as I've confirmed that the crankshaft rear oil seal has a tiny pinhole leak. When i removed the Jatco, i saw a tiny bit of oil on the lower crankcase, i thought that's funny, it don't smell like transmission fluid nor is it that colour of the fluid. So I wipe the trace with a rag and waiting for the rear crank seal to leak but it doesnt happen... i wait a few hours, dont happen. I come back 5 days later, and sure enough, it's engine oil.. nice golden colour as still brand new... I probably shouldn't have lubricated the crank rear oil seal with rubber grease as i was just reading up that they are already lubricated in the packet and if you add grease or anything else, the seal lip can lose it's oil-sealing property..So possibly tomorrow it'll be engine oil to drain, then removal of the crank rear oil seal.. Depending on how i feel with this fever...

niccage said:

Thanks Hippo. Don't know if I'll be doing it this weekend as have some sort of fever.. sore throat, feeling weak, nose sometimes runny, 2 people at work had it a few days ago, just my luck.. the weekend... more like the weep'end! Though I meant to say, it's great how things happen for a reason... I'm glad i removed the Jatco as I've confirmed that the crankshaft rear oil seal has a tiny pinhole leak. When i removed the Jatco, i saw a tiny bit of oil on the lower crankcase, i thought that's funny, it don't smell like transmission fluid nor is it that colour of the fluid. So I wipe the trace with a rag and waiting for the rear crank seal to leak but it doesnt happen... i wait a few hours, dont happen. I come back 5 days later, and sure enough, it's engine oil.. nice golden colour as still brand new... I probably shouldn't have lubricated the crank rear oil seal with rubber grease as i was just reading up that they are already lubricated in the packet and if you add grease or anything else, the seal lip can lose it's oil-sealing property..So possibly tomorrow it'll be engine oil to drain, then removal of the crank rear oil seal.. Depending on how i feel with this fever...

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The crank oil seal can fitted dry or oiled. What is important though is the exposed crank section is free from rust or dirt. If you fit the new seal over a rusty or dirty crank, the fine sealing edge will be damaged. Fine wire wool lightly oil can be used to polish out rust on the surface of the crank.
There's no need to drain the oil to change the crank seal, but you should change the crank bolts as they are a fit once only type