Key, Door Alarm Immobiliser

HELP - I have a 1995 P38 and I think I am going to explode. The problem; Over the past few months the drivers door has stopped working on the remote fob, all other doors work OK. If I lock the car with the key then all doors incuding the drivers lock OK. If I unlock/lock using the remote all doors unlock/lock exept the drivers door whick I have to unlock with the key so I have just been locking and unlocking using the key and all has been fine. Until now.

I have just done some work which required the battery to be disconected. I now cannot sync the key. I have tried the usual methods using the EKA code and locking with the lock button pressed until the key is removed but none of these seem to be registering. When using the EKA code the alarm normally beeps when the code is completed and also the indicators flash on the odd times when entering the code but none of this happening now and the alarm LED in the centre of the windscreen area remains flashing. When trying to start the engine is immobilised

Could this indicate that I have a dodgy drivers door mechanism and is there a process to test the mechanism. I would just like to have an idea before I lash out for a replacement

There is obviously a problem with the drivers door autolock/unlock mechanism which is electro mechanical.
A separate issue is the immobilisation that you have even after going through the EKA and synchronisation process...this indicates that the BECM is probably Alarmed and in a Lockout state. The BECM needs to be checked out and unlocked if necessary. There are people on here who can do this including myself, but it will require removal of the BECM.

If you need furthe information..send me a PM.

I don't think it is registering on the BECM because there were none of the normal indications that happen when you start to enter the code.

try cleening it and try it often dose the job

take the door lock mechanism out, strip it down fiddle with it an connect it back up, it should work. then refit jobs a gud un!!!

I have tried the strip it down and clean process but no joy. I am going try a replacement lock mechanism I think. I will let you know how it goes.

you did try it while it was in bits? plugged into the car???

sometimes you have to fiddle with it for a while, once you can see how it works then you can usually get it working again!

maybe not tho if its something in the becm!

The story so far. I picked up a replacement lock mechanism yesterday on the way home from work and thought before i start to fit it I would have another go at syncing the key and this time it was flashing and beeping while entering the EKA and eventually it was working so stripping and cleaning must have done something. Although I will say that it is now back to how it was before I removed the battery.

It will lock all doors when using the key but the remote does not work on the drivers door only, but now at least I can start it. I will get around to trying the other mechanism when I get chance as I still reacon that is causing the problem, unless you can think of something else?

Thanks for all the advice

Where do I go to get new door locks? And what sort of price should I be paying? I have used Rimmers and Tim Fry's in Cheltenham in the past, both of which are OK. But as always I am on the look out for the impossible - cheap, good parts!

try it without the door card on, if it works then its the sill lock dragging on the surround, the motor in the lock isnt very pwerful and any snags may cause it not to unlock fully.

you will have to bend the rod of the sill lock to get it to frre off. remember any drag will cause hassle!