Critical Help with Alarm/Immobilizer

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GFH-Rover

GFH-Rover

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First time posting and hoping for some help from the seasoned crowd. I have a 2001 p38 and the alarm system went out last year so I was unable to use the key fob. My local rover shop said the computer went out and they were unable to fix it or find a replacement. Figured not a big deal I would just do it the old fashioned way and use the key in the door. That was all well and good until recently when the key was used to unlock the car the alarm goes off and the engine will not start.

The big issue for me aside from the fact that I love this car and want to keep it working, is I use this as my main vehicle when I take my family on ski trips. Fly in, grab the car and drive to the house. I have 2 small kids and don't want to get stranded on a cold night with them.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I had seen a youtube video where someone put the key in the drivers door and used a sequence of locking and unlocking back and fourth to turn off some function. Does anyone know about this issue.

Thank you so much.

Garrett
 
If you have the EKA code for the car you input it like this -

AF42600E-D94B-44A9-8815-6AA13C79A7BF.jpeg
378FFB23-CB5A-4F06-B714-4256EDBBFEAF.jpeg


The door micro switches need to be working to input it. If you fail a few attempts you need to open the door to stop the keycode lockout. If you get ‘keycode lockout’ you can’t try again for a while.
 
The EKA code can be obtained from the dealer with proof of ownership, in most cases free of charge.
With a nanocom the need for using EKA and immobilizer can be disabled so can can be used to enter and start car without need for a working fob
 
Look for someone near you with a Nanocom and get the EKA function and the Immobiliser turned off if it's a diesel then you will have no more trouble. The LZ rescue map may show someone near you.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
If you have the EKA code for the car you input it like this -

View attachment 307967View attachment 307966

The door micro switches need to be working to input it. If you fail a few attempts you need to open the door to stop the keycode lockout. If you get ‘keycode lockout’ you can’t try again for a while.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for the quick reply. Are you finding this in the vehicles manual? I noticed below it was said to find the EKA code from the dealer, but another issue is that I am in the USA and unfortunately the dealers here aren't the same as they are there, I imagine they might even be completely confused as most techs here now have trouble working on something that is older than a few years, a car that's 23 years old might blow their mind.
 
Dealers get it from a LR data base, so nothing technical required.
Do you have any paperwork/folders or manuals supplied with the car. They were usually written on a small card tucked in the owner manual.

I think some have said before they can be got online but I have never tried.

J
 
marjon said:
Dealers get it from a LR data base, so nothing technical required.
Do you have any paperwork/folders or manuals supplied with the car. They were usually written on a small card tucked in the owner manual.

I think some have said before they can be got online but I have never tried.

J
Click to expand...
I do have the manual thankfully, but the rover is 10hrs away. I rent space on someone's property to keep the car when we fly in. A very nice guy, but hate that I'm not there to look through manuals etc. Not pleasant for him to open the door and the alarm starts going off. I will call a dealer and if they don't have it I will ask him to loll in the manual.
 
GFH-Rover said:
I imagine they might even be completely confused as most techs here now have trouble working on something that is older than a few years, a car that's 23 years old might blow their mind.
Click to expand...
that is pretty much the same as here to be honest.
1515 could work if it’s an American vehicle, it won’t hurt.
Pictures are indeed from the owners handbook. Looks bit daunting but once you’ve done it couple of times it’s easy enough.
 
pwood999 said:
For US P38, try 1515 for the EKA using the above procedure.

Also try posting in the P38 section on rr.net forum. https://www.rangerovers.net/forums/range-rover-mark-ii-p38.7/ There's a lot more US folks on there, so might be someone nearby with a Nanocom.
Click to expand...
What exactly does 1515 correlate with? What do I do with that number? I called multiple land rover dealerships and they were of no help even with the vin. At a total loss at this point
 
GFH-Rover said:
What exactly does 1515 correlate with? What do I do with that number? I called multiple land rover dealerships and they were of no help even with the vin. At a total loss at this point
Click to expand...

See post #2 by @RangeRoller dt its key turns.
bit like a safe 1 to the left 5 to the right (that’s 5 single turns after coming back to center) continue :)

But if you microswitches aren’t working, it won’t work, even if it is that number.

J
 
RangeRoller dt said:
If you have the EKA code for the car you input it like this -

View attachment 307967View attachment 307966

The door micro switches need to be working to input it. If you fail a few attempts you need to open the door to stop the keycode lockout. If you get ‘keycode lockout’ you can’t try again for a while.
Click to expand...
Question for the group. We tried the code, but curious if you think the sequence might be different because this is a left side drive. I noticed the sequence is for a right side drive. Could that be the reason for not working? Any idea what the sequence would be for a left side drive?
 
Yes those instructions are for RHD car, plus the handbooks also have errors, so ignore the clockwise & anti-clockwise wording and follow the pictures !!!

Follow the procedure using the Lock & Unlock positions that match your car.

As above, if latch microswitches are faulty this will not work.

Export Owners Handbook Version

1705853204331.png
 
Hey, was your engine cranking? Was it giving any errors in the dash? You didn't come back to update the thread, what finally fixed it?
 
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