Thin_trucker
Active Member
- Posts
- 317
- Location
- lincoln
Stupid as this is going to sound, you said both prop shafts turn but you didn't say if the vehicle was moving or not:
IF the vehicle was rolling slightly (on a hill for example), the props were both turning but you had no drive - I'd suggest the wheels were turning the props so diffs are o.k and you have a transfer box, gearbox or clutch problem (transfer box would be my guess after 80miles in difflock).
In case you've not read about the little gearstick here's some pointers;
THE PICTURE ABOVE IT TELLS YOU WHAT IS WHERE!
High range, out of difflock for on the road
Low range, out of difflock for offroad, though high will often do
Engage difflock only when it looks like you might lose traction and come back out of it as soon as you can, if the light stays lit - it's not come out properly and reversing will usually cure this, you have high and low in difflock too - use whichever is suitable.
Low range for going down hills, NOT the brakes, steep and unfirm slopes, use the difflock too but don't forget to come back out of it asap, generally - 1st,2nd possibly 3rd for going down hills - don't touch the brakes, the gears will slow you just fine.
If it starts sliding downhill, accelerate as little as at takes to stop this - Brakes will make matters a whole lot worse.
A standard landrover drivetrain is permanently 4wd - you can't put it in 2wd or anything else, the little stick only does as I've explained above. The difflock just locks the front and rear axles to turn the same.
Without the difflock on, complete loss of traction on one wheel will have you stuck (both diffs pick the easiest to turn)
With difflock on complete loss of traction on ONE wheel on BOTH axles will see you stuck
IF the vehicle was rolling slightly (on a hill for example), the props were both turning but you had no drive - I'd suggest the wheels were turning the props so diffs are o.k and you have a transfer box, gearbox or clutch problem (transfer box would be my guess after 80miles in difflock).
In case you've not read about the little gearstick here's some pointers;
THE PICTURE ABOVE IT TELLS YOU WHAT IS WHERE!
High range, out of difflock for on the road
Low range, out of difflock for offroad, though high will often do
Engage difflock only when it looks like you might lose traction and come back out of it as soon as you can, if the light stays lit - it's not come out properly and reversing will usually cure this, you have high and low in difflock too - use whichever is suitable.
Low range for going down hills, NOT the brakes, steep and unfirm slopes, use the difflock too but don't forget to come back out of it asap, generally - 1st,2nd possibly 3rd for going down hills - don't touch the brakes, the gears will slow you just fine.
If it starts sliding downhill, accelerate as little as at takes to stop this - Brakes will make matters a whole lot worse.
A standard landrover drivetrain is permanently 4wd - you can't put it in 2wd or anything else, the little stick only does as I've explained above. The difflock just locks the front and rear axles to turn the same.
Without the difflock on, complete loss of traction on one wheel will have you stuck (both diffs pick the easiest to turn)
With difflock on complete loss of traction on ONE wheel on BOTH axles will see you stuck
.
