IRD removal

Northern Irelander · Oct 12, 2008

I just spent the guts of a day getting the IRD out and refitting, it should really only take a few hours but lets face it there are big issues with the design. Its a
b!tch of a job.

Some pics:

ming · Oct 12, 2008

Nice wun NI. . . .was old one u/s ?

Northern Irelander · Oct 12, 2008

Personally I blame the Austrians who built and partly designed this wacko design.

Pics explained:

Block off the coolant IRD hoses, M12 and M10 bolts for the different size hoses.

Haynes is a liar, you dont need to remove the driveshsft nut to pop out the driveshaft. I removed it, then asked myself why?

LR are the worst offenders of over size bolts, any showing thread will rust over time, I cut the bolts to a more suitable size.

Remove the bolts, brake hose needs to be unclipped to access the top bolt. Let the hub hang down, use a junior bolster to pop the driveshaft.

The longest part of the process is removing the lower tie bar, and IRD bracket, thats 10 bolts

, and 5 bolts for the tie bar. ITS OVERKILL!
All of these bolts are locked with thread lock, my forearms are like pop-eye. LR are mad, what possessed them to use so much thread lock

I retapped the bolt holes, you will see the blue swarf in the tap. What a difference when refitting ;

The upper IRD is a 2nd hand unit, slighly newer, you can see the prop flange is like new, guess they never went mondo mode. Old IRD is running fine, its going to get stripped down, whilst the FL1 is being used as a daily runner.

To remove/refit the IRD, remove the rear prop pinion, this will let you manoeuvre the unit between the sump and subframe. the splines must be pointed downwards and RHS driveshaft upwards.

Use a jack or blocks to take the strain, its just under 30kg

)

ming · Oct 12, 2008

dont ferget to thread lock em

Northern Irelander · Oct 12, 2008

ming said:
Nice wun NI. . . .was old one u/s ?

No its running, I wanted to strip the unit down whilst the FL1 is being used as a daily runner.

2nd hand unit wasnt cheap £400

still not as bad as new unit is £750 plus VAT, plus delivery charges.

Will be replacing the bearings in my unit, its in good nick, then refitting it.

Northern Irelander · Oct 12, 2008

ming said:
dont ferget to thread lock em

There wont be any thread lock............ever!

JonFre · Oct 13, 2008

Northern Irelander said:
There wont be any thread lock............ever!

Going back a lot of years (before threadlock) I don't recall everything falling apart. We did of course know to put the thin locknut on first!

The Mad Hat Man · Oct 13, 2008

and wire locking

JonFre · Oct 13, 2008

The Mad Hat Man said:
and wire locking

Which ended up looking neat and going the right way.

doobreydog · Oct 13, 2008

What you tapping for??? somthing broked

JonFre · Oct 13, 2008

doobreydog said:
What you tapping for??? somthing broked

NI doesn't cut corners - he cuts out thread lock.

Northern Irelander · Oct 13, 2008

doobreydog said:
What you tapping for??? somthing broked

Doob, if LR didnt go mad on the thread lock I wouldnt need to tap. Normally there are just one or two threads coated.

I removed the same bolts last year when I had the engine out, despite the bolts being out several times, they dont loosen up any.

It was worth taking a little extra time to do that, trust me there is logic in my madness.

The Mad Hat Man · Oct 13, 2008

i mean - lets face it - wots the worst that can happen?

Dann · Oct 15, 2008

Northern Irelander said:
I just spent the guts of a day getting the IRD out and refitting, it should really only take a few hours but lets face it there are big issues with the design. Its a
b!tch of a job.

Some pics:

Many thanks for pics ands text. My only concern is the apparent use of bricks to support the vehicle weight ( pic 5). D..

Northern Irelander · Oct 15, 2008

Dann said:
Many thanks for pics ands text. My only concern is the apparent use of bricks to support the vehicle weight ( pic 5). D..

They aint bricks, railway sleepers cut up into squares 20 x20cm approx, safe as houses

rear wheel is choked too.

The jacking points on the sills beds in slightly to the wood across the grain so they wouldnt split. I have those useless plastic sill strips removed.

I could use my 4 axle stands, but driveway is uneven and on a slight slope, two of the axle stands were made in the shipyard (H&W) strong as an ox, but the blocks are so much safer. Plus axle stands only go so high, I prefer to work at a full arms length esp when lying underneath a motor bench pressing a diff.

The jack is always posed ready for usage too, health and safety and all that.

Northern Irelander · Oct 15, 2008

The Mad Hat Man said:
i mean - lets face it - wots the worst that can happen?

I could break a nail, or chip my nail polish

IRD removal

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