Personally I blame the Austrians who built and partly designed this wacko design.
Pics explained:
Block off the coolant IRD hoses, M12 and M10 bolts for the different size hoses.
Haynes is a liar, you dont need to remove the driveshsft nut to pop out the driveshaft. I removed it, then asked myself why?
LR are the worst offenders of over size bolts, any showing thread will rust over time, I cut the bolts to a more suitable size.
Remove the bolts, brake hose needs to be unclipped to access the top bolt. Let the hub hang down, use a junior bolster to pop the driveshaft.
The longest part of the process is removing the lower tie bar, and IRD bracket, thats 10 bolts
, and 5 bolts for the tie bar. ITS OVERKILL!
All of these bolts are locked with thread lock, my forearms are like pop-eye. LR are mad, what possessed them to use so much thread lock
I retapped the bolt holes, you will see the blue swarf in the tap. What a difference when refitting ;
The upper IRD is a 2nd hand unit, slighly newer, you can see the prop flange is like new, guess they never went mondo mode. Old IRD is running fine, its going to get stripped down, whilst the FL1 is being used as a daily runner.
To remove/refit the IRD, remove the rear prop pinion, this will let you manoeuvre the unit between the sump and subframe. the splines must be pointed downwards and RHS driveshaft upwards.
Use a jack or blocks to take the strain, its just under 30kg
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