Intake Air Temperature Sensor problem

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thebluemax

thebluemax

Active Member
Posts
163
hi all
just noticed that one of the two wires to my Intake Air Temperature Sensor (in intake pipe above inlet manifold) is broken, the other wire is ok, I have no black smoke and turbo boosts ok and the TD4 (2004) pulls well.
so what difference will it make without being fixed ? also the broken wire is really close to the connector that plugs into the sensor so may not be able to repair it, are replacement wire lengths available and are they easy to connect at the other end (under the engine ?
cheers for any help.
 
ECU has probably reverted to default values. You can, with some care, unclip the pin from within the connector and splice in a wire:

1. Remove connector
2. Pry out plastic insert from female side.
3. You should see how the terminal is held in the connector - usually a plastic tab that you can push in to release the pin from the back of the connector.
4. Solder away. I recommend heat shrink tubing. Also, smear some dielectric grease over the repair before putting the heat shrink over it.
5. The repaired pin can then be simply clicked back into place.
 
When a sensor gives a signal that is outside spec or isn't detected at all, the ECU substitutes a set value for the missing single. Often this set value allows the engine to run, often so well the drive hardly notices.
The plug is probably a Junior 3 pin. I'll check mine over the weekend to identify the plug type.
 
Nodge68 said:
When a sensor gives a signal that is outside spec or isn't detected at all, the ECU substitutes a set value for the missing single. Often this set value allows the engine to run, often so well the drive hardly notices.
The plug is probably a Junior 3 pin. I'll check mine over the weekend to identify the plug type.
Click to expand...
Nodge, it's a two-pin if I remember correctly.
 
thing is guy;s what can I do if there isn't enough cable to solder too at the plug end..need to fix it as I am OCD or will it be okay till I can source a new cable (if it can be replaced) ?
 
You can get the terminals from BMW for this connector and then you can rewire it properly

I'll try and find the part numbers for you - mine broke and I ordered the parts from BMW and fixed it properly
 
thebluemax said:
thing is guy;s what can I do if there isn't enough cable to solder too at the plug end..need to fix it as I am OCD or will it be okay till I can source a new cable (if it can be replaced) ?
Click to expand...
Bluemax, are you reading my posts?! I said ages ago on your vcu/IRD thread that it was probably VCU bearings, and you've given credit to someone else for saying it's 'probably a bearing'. Grrr.

As I said, you can pop the terminal pins out of the connector and attach new wires. I've just done this on mine - about 1/2 hour's work at a leisurely pace. I used a cheap watchmaker's flat screwdriver to pop the pins.
 
guineafowl21 said:
Bluemax, are you reading my posts?! I said ages ago on your vcu/IRD thread that it was probably VCU bearings, and you've given credit to someone else for saying it's 'probably a bearing'. Grrr.

As I said, you can pop the terminal pins out of the connector and attach new wires. I've just done this on mine - about 1/2 hour's work at a leisurely pace. I used a cheap watchmaker's flat screwdriver to pop the pins.
Click to expand...
you are absolutely right of course guineafowl21, in fact you prompted me into checking the prop movement before going to "Bell" for a professional double check , which he confirmed for me, what got me was the fact that the bearings were screwed in such a short time....if cheap replacements then fair enough but when the "vcu" was fitted at a cost of £485 ( which "bell" said was in perfect condition ) then one would expect the bearings to be of a similar quality, but heh ho.. life aint like that, so yes apologies to you and I will use your advice to fix my other problem.
 
thebluemax said:
you are absolutely right of course guineafowl21, in fact you prompted me into checking the prop movement before going to "Bell" for a professional double check , which he confirmed for me, what got me was the fact that the bearings were screwed in such a short time....if cheap replacements then fair enough but when the "vcu" was fitted at a cost of £485 ( which "bell" said was in perfect condition ) then one would expect the bearings to be of a similar quality, but heh ho.. life aint like that, so yes apologies to you and I will use your advice to fix my other problem.
Click to expand...
No probs. I am a veteran of three sets of cheap, Britpart/Allmakes VCU bearings (don't ask). The last set I bought from Bell for £65 or so and these are doing very well. Either get these or the GKN ones I've given you the link for.
 
guineafowl21 said:
No probs. I am a veteran of three sets of cheap, Britpart/Allmakes VCU bearings (don't ask). The last set I bought from Bell for £65 or so and these are doing very well. Either get these or the GKN ones I've given you the link for.
Click to expand...
thanks mate, would have got them from ken at Bell but he only had one in yesterday...bugger, so are those good then in the link you sent me ?rather pay more than do it twice..been looking around and about £50 each..same as your link.
 
td4van said:
You can get the terminals from BMW for this connector and then you can rewire it properly

I'll try and find the part numbers for you - mine broke and I ordered the parts from BMW and fixed it properly
Click to expand...
yes my wire is broken just as it goes into the plug so no soldering to fix...grrr, so if you can find the part numbers for me td4van that would be good.
 
thebluemax said:
thanks mate, would have got them from ken at Bell but he only had one in yesterday...bugger, so are those good then in the link you sent me ?rather pay more than do it twice..been looking around and about £50 each..same as your link.
Click to expand...
They are GKN, so original fitment, as far as I'm aware. Worth the extra cost, in this case!
 
thebluemax said:
yes my wire is broken just as it goes into the plug so no soldering to fix...grrr, so if you can find the part numbers for me td4van that would be good.
Click to expand...

I'm not entirely sure you've understood the solution I gave you... It doesn't matter that the wire is broken right at the connector, because you can pop the terminal out of the connector and solder the wire directly to it.

I went to check my connector because of your post, and found one of the wires nearly broken right at the connector just like yours. I popped the terminal out, spliced in an extra length of wire, then clicked it back into place. All finished up with heat shrink.
 
guineafowl21 said:
I'm not entirely sure you've understood the solution I gave you... It doesn't matter that the wire is broken right at the connector, because you can pop the terminal out of the connector and solder the wire directly to it.

I went to check my connector because of your post, and found one of the wires nearly broken right at the connector just like yours. I popped the terminal out, spliced in an extra length of wire, then clicked it back into place. All finished up with heat shrink.
Click to expand...
ok will give it a go.. cheers
 
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