Hummm a bit conflicting

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scott02464

Active Member
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Up North!
Just been reading some previous post to do with oil changes on Auto boxes.

Some say to leave alone if its not causing problems, some say not to change if history is unknown?

Now, i was wanting to change me gearbox and transfer box oil as a matter of course, plus i recon it holds some gears a bit longer than i would expect....

What do you guys recon? Change or not?

Plus, i have the dipstick version so do i pysically fill from a filler hole on the actual box and keep checking the dipstick (Bin reading a few posts with dipsticks and without and now im unsure:()

P.s will it deffo be ATF in the gearbox now
 
I don't see why the problem with changing the oil and filter gearbox, i did mine, but it was a wast of time tbh, you cant change all the oil, only about 2/3 of it, and it came out as clean as a whistle, i only changed it because i thought there was a noise coming from the box, but it turned out to be the air con main motor (but that's another story) yea its oil in the dipstick im afraid, be EXACT with your refilling of it though, don't go under or over the mark
 
Thanks guys, will deffo go ahead and change it then, just was putting me off abit reading some of the other posts.

Thanks for the info :):)
 
with older autos especially ones with a mechanical govenor (disco 1,rr classic) if a bit worn new atf seems to over clean internal components usually upsetting govenor leading to either no or poor gear change,its not necessry to change oil to often dextron 2or 3 are perfect if vyouy have dipstick you have to fill through it
 
with older autos especially ones with a mechanical govenor (disco 1,rr classic) if a bit worn new atf seems to over clean internal components usually upsetting govenor leading to either no or poor gear change,its not necessry to change oil to often dextron 2or 3 are perfect if vyouy have dipstick you have to fill through it

That happned to me and nate, cost us about 1k to put right-each that is,complete rebuild only cure

dont change it unless you know when it was last done as it risks needing a rebuild if that govenor starts getting blocked, but you will probably find the box last forver if you leave it alone. and if it doesnt you no worse off.

if you know the history ie when it was last changed its ok to do it.

the problem is the detergent in the new oil loosens all the build up of crap in the box, which can be alot if its not been changed when it should have been over the years which then blocks the govenor.
 
yup u sure can , and I did but its no fun and it also just gets blocked again each time you go over about 50mph as there is no way of getting the ****e out of the rest of the box without a rebuild.

I know it happened to me!!! :doh:

Just not worth it!!!
 
Yeah, have heard similar myself. Have changed axle oil, transfer box, engine oil and just about every other fluid in both mine, but decided to leave auto'boxes well alone other than to check levels (engine idling, with neutral selected).

As a side note, I've also heard that if you leave the car idling for more than a few minutes, it's a better idea to select neutral with the autoboxes to improve oil circulation (instead of leaving in park???)....would welcome confirmation or denial of this with reasons:confused:
 
joe, you have done the right thing mate- with cars of our age with no history you are asking for it if you change it.

PM bemble he is the autobox man and will be able to answer your question about n or p.

I had heard that leaving it idling for too long puts alot of pressure on the input seal and that will be on its last legs on old boxes.
 
What's the difference between dextron 2 and dextron 3? Would there be any way of knowing what's in the box now, ie no effects on them mixing (with what's left in the torque converter)
 
Check autobox level when COLD. Start engine, brakes on, move lever from P thru to 1, back to P, check level with engine still running. If between low/high LEAVE it. If top-up needed, do it slowly making sure ya don't over-fill!!!
 
Check autobox level when COLD. Start engine, brakes on, move lever from P thru to 1, back to P, check level with engine still running. If between low/high LEAVE it. If top-up needed, do it slowly making sure ya don't over-fill!!!

Cheers mate, but will it be ok if i put in Dextron 2 and there was Dextron 3 in before, as the resiual oil in the torque converter will mix? Or does this not matter at all?

Also just read a few post up and it said if you have a dipstick you refil the oil through the dipstick tube, Is this true?
 
Cheers mate, but will it be ok if i put in Dextron 2 and there was Dextron 3 in as the resiual oil in the torque converter will mix? Or does this not matter at all?

Also just read a few post up and it said if you have a dipstick you refil the oil through the dipstick tube, Is this true?

Yep, through dip, always add 3 - replaces "2" the older version, bit like brakefuid.....Dot 3 used to be the best, now Dot 4, higher compression and working temperature.

Put simply, IF it's low, top up lil at a time with Dextron 3 ...... simples! ;)
 
Yep, through dip, always add 3 - replaces "2" the older version, bit like brakefuid.....Dot 3 used to be the best, now Dot 4, higher compression and working temperature.

Put simply, IF it's low, top up lil at a time with Dextron 3 ...... simples! ;)


except Dot5.1 - thats a different compound :D.
 
Yep, through dip, always add 3 - replaces "2" the older version, bit like brakefuid.....Dot 3 used to be the best, now Dot 4, higher compression and working temperature.

Put simply, IF it's low, top up lil at a time with Dextron 3 ...... simples! ;)

Ah im with you! Cheers matey 3 it is then ;)
 
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