Hub seal and selectro freewheeling hub.

Gear oil all over the o/s front brake shoes on my '61 2a. Started a month ago so as a temp I dumped the oil from the swivel hub, washed everything with petrol and ordered shoes and hub seals for both sides. Started the job today, more oil on the shoes (lots of it), dont know where that's come from but for sure a hub seal should fix it. Need to remove the selectro fw hubs, these are the old style with three pairs of screws around the circumference of the cap . Afaik the three nearest to the flange need to be removed/backed off and the cap will come off. Problem is the screws just wont budge, they are slotted screws which I think is unusual, I've even butchered a larger screwdriver to give it a perfect profile for the slot but these blighters are likely to break before they come out, neither warming them up or plusgas is making any difference. Any ideas? or has anyone managed to successfully drill out these screws?
Bilco.

Impact driver? I hope you got the leather seals - I've got the older style hubs/backplates on my S3 and the rubber seals don't work! You can replace the ring the seal runs on on these older backplates if it's worn or scored.

Hi Oxides, Thanks for the super fast reply and the tip about the seals, not opened the jiffy bag yet, I've packed in for today but in the morning I'll have a look and if neccessary I'll order some of the leather type. Tried an impact driver but not too hard because I dont have a bit with a good profile, might be able to borrow a better one tomorrow and give it another whack. I would never have thought that three little screws could give me such a headache.
Bilco.

rubber seals do work if fitted right better than leather

The rubber ones last me about a year - and they are fitted correctly. The leather ones don't seem to wear as fast.

My O/S hub seal went this morning - ****ed oil every bloody where - on new shoes, too. Not ****ing happy >:/ Wondered why the brakes suddenly stopped biting on one side....:doh:

As for the hubs, mine are Selectro, and i've got Hex heads on the caps. Not much help to you, but mine were pretty solid - and a few rounded off - I just tapped a Torx in the head and it bit in nicely.

If you can get the rest off, then yer only real option is gonna be to drill them out and retap

The seal on mine got eaten because the sleeve on the stub was really badly scored - i've ordered two - i'll be doing the other side later.
Have you ordered the felt seals for the driveshafts, too ?

Been out for a few beers so please excuse any typos. Mine are simple slots not cross head hex or torx, Ive thrown a day at sorting them with zero result, I believe they will break before they will come out. problem as I see it is that drilling a steel screw out of an ally cap is a basxxrd of a job and there are three of them. Even if I drill them out the bit in the grove at the end may prevent the cap coming off anyway. Goona try begging or borrowing an impact driver with an apropriate bit other than that I'm fed up so any help or suggestions would be REALLY appreciated.
Bill.

Bought another hand impact driver for its bit set, interestingly its identical to the Talco one I already have but different brand name. Two of the bits have a close to optimum profile so was able to give all three screws quite a pounding. None of them budged, not even the slightest movement. I need the landy tomorrow so I've washed everything down with petrol (again) and its temporarily back together. I've not been able to come up with any workaround so I'll collect together some 'just in case' parts before I drill out the screws next weekend. Still haven't worked out why after dumping all the swivel hub oil it still saturated the brake shoes and drum, I guess the problem is more than just the hub seal and the oil is coming from the axle itself.

Might be the axle seal - is the diff oil level going down?

Hi oxides,
I think you're spot on, has to be both axle and hub seals. Not noticed the diff oil dropping but I suppose that although the mess in the brake drum looks like gallons in real terms it may not be much.
Bilco

It's like blood, a little EP90 goes a long way.

Hi all 1st time on here, can any one tell me where I get a service kit for selectro fw hubs.
I dont know if 1 is done for selectro? I got 1 for my AVM hubs when I serviced them.

Got the screws out by placing a nut over each one at a time then welding them in place down through the hole, the intense local heat from the mig may have also helped but whatever they spannered out from there. 'Phew!
Checked the new seals and they are leather/metal so I will stick with that. The sleeve/ring is probably ok but not perfect so not going to take a chance can someone help me with the Part Number ? I asked at our local land rover place and they said they were not separate, I guess they dont mess with old landies enough. Had intended to do both sides but this job has been such a thief of time that I'm leaving the nearside alone until it fails or I get inspired to do it.
Bilco.

oldjohn, I dont know whether a kit would be available, mine are very old so I guess obsolete but maybe for later stuff?? I just dont know.
Bilco.

599698 is the part number for the ring on the S3 which I think is the same.

A US company called Mile Marker seem to make/distribute the Selectro hubs now. Can't find a UK equivalent source. A google search and an e-mail may prove profitable.

Thanks oxides, I'm sure it will be the same PN on my 2a, I'll be glad to get it finished.
Bilco.

Knew I'd forgotten to mention something important, there was NO CASTLE NUT/SPLIT PIN on the half shaft, it has to have been like this since before my ownership (5 years) but surely this is not right. The little felt gizmo was just sitting on the threaded part at the end of the half shaft doing nothing (roughly where the castle nut should be) . Unless someone tells me there is some reason for it or its ok like this I'm minded to fit a new castle nut and torque it to about 15 ft lbs . Any opinions or advice appreciated.
Bilco.

oldjohn said:

Hi all 1st time on here, can any one tell me where I get a service kit for selectro fw hubs.
I dont know if 1 is done for selectro? I got 1 for my AVM hubs when I serviced them.

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I emailed the yank firm to ask for advice - they never answered my mail. I just cleaned them up and regreased a bit. In fact there is nothing to "service" once you get the cap off. Oil leaks can be stopped by a new felt washer. I don't get oil spray all over the rims now

bilco said:

Knew I'd forgotten to mention something important, there was NO CASTLE NUT/SPLIT PIN on the half shaft, it has to have been like this since before my ownership (5 years) but surely this is not right. The little felt gizmo was just sitting on the threaded part at the end of the half shaft doing nothing (roughly where the castle nut should be) . Unless someone tells me there is some reason for it or its ok like this I'm minded to fit a new castle nut and torque it to about 15 ft lbs . Any opinions or advice appreciated.
Bilco.

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Right bilco. castle nut and split pin seems to be essential can't understand why nothing fell off Don't know about torque settings I did mine hand tight and just nipped it up a bit. Was going to use a scaffold pole but was talked out of it

Hi pikefly,
It's back together now, complete with new castle nut/pin. The way the FWH is constructed prevents anything falling out but I can't believe it should be like that. I was going to leave the other side alone but I guess it will be the same so best to take a look. The really annoying thing is the total lack of technical info.
Bilco.