hse 4.6 fuel consumption

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i have got a light foot, i am now going to put in a gallon as the light has
now come on. i will drive around town till the light comes on and see what
she does.
 
just checked the tyres from cold.

the fronts were over inflated 2.20 bar when they should have been 1.90
the rears were under inflated 2.00 bar when they should have been 2.60

255 x 55 x 18

now got 8 miles out of a gallon
 
Lowest I ever had was when I floored it heavily from Holyhead to Chester and it was showing 9mpg on the display..mind you the needle was well round the clock and way past the 70 mark! Normally "Round the houses" I get around 15-16 and on a decent run, say motorway/dual carriageway 23-26 at around steady 80ish
 
i have got a light foot, i am now going to put in a gallon as the light has
now come on. i will drive around town till the light comes on and see what
she does.

Hunter, honestly that's not the best or most accurate way to get an accurate reading of actual fuel consumption. You need to fill up or at least part fill - there is a school of thought indicating that fuel consumption is always worse than it needs to be if you keep running on the skids /petrol light coming on and that consumption is better on a fuller tank. You also need to make several longish runs and not become obsessive about "I've just done 12 miles and its reading xMPG now". Once you've refilled several times and done a mixture of town and country driving, the reading will be much more likely to be a better reflection of actual fuel consumption.

I know that many folk will pohpooh the notion of using higher octane petrol, but I use Ultimate or other 97 premium petrols exclusively on my 4.6, and its run well for many years now. When I did use 95, I noticed the difference immediately both in comsumption figures and the running of the car. The 4.6 is a big V8 lump and needs the best quality petrol and oils to keep in good nick, with very frequent oil changes. Call it coincidence, but my Rangie runs sweetly without the horror stories you read on here and has done for years, being treated this way. Its expensive to run a car this way, but a P38 RR is not a cheap car to run.:eek:
 
results of the emissions

natural idle test co limits 0.5% co actual value 1.90%

fast idle test @ 2701rpm co limits 0.3% co actual value 8.99%
hc limits 200 ppm hc actual value 388 ppm
0.95-1.09 0.780

2nd fast idle test @ 2859rpm co limits 0.3% co actual value 5.54%
hc limits 200 ppm hc actual value 262 ppm
0.95-1.09 0.864

this is conclusive proof that i am using far too much fuel. should i be looking to change the lambada sensors. will this make much of a differance...
 
just bought a pair of lambada sensors for £75. they should be here tomorrow.
they look quite simple to fit or will there be some hidden surprises.
the guy at the garage said they look corroded on.
 
I know that V8's tend to run a bit on the rich side and have black exhausts when running on petrol, but yours must be running on neat juice looking at those figures!!
Are you sure the air bypass hole in the MAF is free of ****e. The lambdas send the exhaust gas figures back to the ecu for the MAF to adjust to suit. Looking at your previous post about noisy tappets, I had that on my old V8 Disco and when I checked it, the camshaft lobes were almost worn into a circle, wonder I got any fuel into the cylinders at all...maybe another avenue to look at. Is the idle speed steady? For the price, may well pay to change the lambdas for starters, with what you are paying out in juice, it's a relatively cheap option. I also had a MAF go some years ago and the main problem was that the idle speed was erratic.
 
which is the air bypass hole. i had it all to bits yesterday and gave it a good
clean but there wasnt much to clean really? whats that sensor on the airbox
itself?
 
ok thats have another go at trying to explain. i disconected the maf sensor and
it was really difficult to start. once started it was eratic idling and absolutely stunk
of petrol and fumes. it was impossible to drive it just stalled.
as soon as i reconnected the maf it started ok but did not idle to good. it was
coughing and spluttering and loads of crap coming out of exhaust. i took her
for a spin around the block and it was hesitant and does not seem right.
it done exactly this the other day and once i started it from cold it was ok again.
is there anyone on here that can help me get this sorted as its really depressing
me.
 
Why not take it round to RPI in Norwich and just ask their opinion without getting them too involved. I have always found them extremely helpful in the past with phone queries and they don't seem to be in any rush to stop talking either.
 
i may have missed this in this thread and i may be daft in askin this but.... you have changed the plugs and leads? me mate was having some probs with his including tick over misfiring, he was getting 9mpg and all was cured by just new leads and plugs
 
oh dear the dream is over.
just been off the phone to rpi engineering and he is sure that the top end needs
overhauling especially with the milage its done. he also said that the air flow sensors
do not fail on the early models and that by changing the lambda sensors will make
no differance at all.
my car is in limb mode and thats the way its gonna stay
 
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