High Low Selection very hard

Hi. Just bought an old defender, mid 1980’s and it has a transfer box that is exceptionally hard to move from high to low. Diff lock goes easily but high low requires massive force. I have been forcing it for about 20 times and it has got a bit better but does not click in place like my other defender. It also only just engages and pops out unless really forced in.

Any thoughts? I am guessing it has not been in low range for years! Could it be the top selector mechanism? I could open that up and see. Is it a common fault/problem?

Dafs.........

What does Dafs mean?

DougLang said:

What does Dafs mean?

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you can get it in a 750ml spray can.

I am guessing you want me to remove the top cover and clean it. It may seem a simple question to you but many of us are learning and need some advice from time to time. A lot can be learnt if people are prepared to share experiences... that is all that is being asked.

Hey Doug, mine is/was the same way. Old owner(s) must've never put in low range. After a change of the transfer & gearbox oil and repeatedly going between hi/low range it's gotten a lot more smooth. Not great, but better.

Be careful not to use too much force. Part of the linkage (called the clevis) is relatively fragile and it'll break if you're too agressive (mine did).

Also, usually helps to let the clutch in and out a time or two if it doesn't go in the first try.

linkage can be adjusted to engage hi and low equally either on splines or adjusting nuts on linkage near t/box ,detent spring can be adjusted on drivers side toward rear of t/box 6mm allen screw ,its worth removing hi/low lever housing and cleaning and lubricating properly first

Thanks for the help!

Only do it in gear and while you do it, raise the clutch very slightly, yu will feel it "bite", maybe with a bit of additional accelerator. It becomes a natural maneuvre after a while, like changing gear!

As a matter of interest, why only do it in gear?

Because if it's out of gear the transfer box and the clutch aren't connected by anything.

And so you can jump it in by using the clutch - it's a bit of an imperfect link!

I tried it first time i had the landy out of gear and couldn't engage anything from a state of everything being in neutral for ages - i learnt though!

So, the idea is to be able to use the clutch to rotate bits to help the splines line up when engaging low range?

Nomad Z said:

So, the idea is to be able to use the clutch to rotate bits to help the splines line up when engaging low range?

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Just very gently, raise the clutch while putting pressure on the selector knob, and it should just gently slide into place. Once it's in, and before you move off, push the clutch back down again. Make a mental note to ensure you're in first first though, before you select or deselect anything!!!

Cheers - will have a play next time I go out.

Let us know how you get on!!!

Oddie said:

I tried it first time i had the landy out of gear and couldn't engage anything from a state of everything being in neutral for ages - i learnt though!

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This is good advice. My first time I was trying to rock my Landy 'cause the bloomin' manual said it should be in neutral. After I got all hot and bothered (about to give up) I just put it in gear and it worked a treat.

Edit: well maybe not "good" advice - but at least it works for me too

DougLang said:

It also only just engages and pops out unless really forced in.

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Think I might know what the problem is there... There's a grub screw which holds the actuator rod to the bottom of the short stick. Over time it works loose and the throw between lo and hi gets enormous - on an earlier one like yours there's a good chance that's happened.

It is a piece of **** to check though - take out the centre seat/cubby and lift the floor section underneath it and you'll find this bit on top of the transfer box:



Undo the 6 bolts holding it down and carefully lever it away from the main tbox casing - it'll be pretty obvious once it's loose if the grub screw isn't tight enough as the actuator 'finger' will be loose on the rod. Do it properly and take the screw right the way out and put some thread lock on it before putting it back in and it'll last you another 20 years.

There's a pretty obvious recess which that 'finger' sits in which you'll need to make sure it locates in when you put it back together, if it doesn't you won't be able to select either hi or low.

If you're not a ridiculous distance away from South Cumbria you can always drop round and I'll help you check it.

Hope that helps,

What a different experience to DAFS by our first poster. I undid the 6 bolts and took off the housing and the lever was stuck solid. Removed the circlip and slid out the shaft with friendly persuader... greased it up and put it all back together. Slides beautifully and engages with no problems. Thanks for the advice and guidance, very easy fix! If anyone knows about clutch changes have a look at my new post “changing a clutch without taking out engine or box”.

The clutch & in gear trick worked for me when I tried it a couple of times today. Both times, it baulked a bit trying to put it in low when out of gear, but a tiny bit of clutch in 1st was enough for the lever to slip forward with virtually no resistance.