Help with engine block markings and other recommendations

Doogal Too · Wednesday at 03:01

I have a 79 Series 3/Santana I’m working on. Discovered the block was welded sometime in its past. Looking for help understanding the numbers on the block. Also, it’s clear the engine got very hot at some point in this past, possibly what led to the weld. The timing chain went through some bluing. Otherwise it seams fine. Would you reuse?

kermit_rr · Wednesday at 06:44

I wouldn't worry too much about a bit of weld, does it look ok internally? Are the cylinders good and round? If the chain has been that hot î might want to replace it.. what are the bearings like?

Doogal Too · Wednesday at 11:37

kermit_rr said:
I wouldn't worry too much about a bit of weld, does it look ok internally? Are the cylinders good and round? If the chain has been that hot î might want to replace it.. what are the bearings like?

I was thinking the same thing about the chain. I haven’t pulled the pistons or crankshaft yet. Hopefully Friday or Saturday.

Btw, if you are the Kermit from YouTube, I really appreciated your build videos for Kermit. Extremely helpful to me.

I wouldn’t have tire the engine down this far except I discovered a massive glob of JB weld on the block this winter where leaking had cleared of the grease. What I thought was a massive amount, turned out to be a thin layer over the weld. So I’m a bit concerned the block or weld cracked when we had an unusually cold spell. Found a place who will inspect and re-weld if necessary. Also found a potential block locally.

kermit_rr · Wednesday at 11:52

Doogal Too said:
I was thinking the same thing about the chain. I haven’t pulled the pistons or crankshaft yet. Hopefully Friday or Saturday.

Btw, if you are the Kermit from YouTube, I really appreciated your build videos for Kermit. Extremely helpful to me.

I wouldn’t have tire the engine down this far except I discovered a massive glob of JB weld on the block this winter where leaking had cleared of the grease. What I thought was a massive amount, turned out to be a thin layer over the weld. So I’m a bit concerned the block or weld cracked when we had an unusually cold spell. Found a place who will inspect and re-weld if necessary. Also found a potential block locally.

Nope that's not me, not done anything like that

kermit_rr · Wednesday at 11:53

Not sure why you'd put jb weld over an actual weld. Maybe whoever did it wasn't very good on cast iron. I had one brazed many years ago

Wildefalcon · Wednesday at 12:03

Chains are cheap. Replace regardless.

lynall · Wednesday at 12:22

Doogal Too said:
I was thinking the same thing about the chain. I haven’t pulled the pistons or crankshaft yet. Hopefully Friday or Saturday.

Btw, if you are the Kermit from YouTube, I really appreciated your build videos for Kermit. Extremely helpful to me.

I wouldn’t have tire the engine down this far except I discovered a massive glob of JB weld on the block this winter where leaking had cleared of the grease. What I thought was a massive amount, turned out to be a thin layer over the weld. So I’m a bit concerned the block or weld cracked when we had an unusually cold spell. Found a place who will inspect and re-weld if necessary. Also found a potential block locally.

I think you will find that weld is nowhere near the cooling jacket and the block has cracked as something has let go in the bottom end in the past.

Doogal Too · Wednesday at 12:28

kermit_rr said:
Nope that's not me, not done anything like that

Well, thank you anyway.

Doogal Too · Wednesday at 12:30

lynall said:
I think you will that weld is nowhere near the cooling jacket and the block has cracked as something has let go in the bottom end in the past.

Thanks for this. I’m not that familiar with the engines and read about the “typical” area where these blocks crack. Had no idea if it was near the water jacket or not.

tottot · Wednesday at 18:27

The numbers on the block are casting numbers.

Doogal Too · 2025-04-24T03:05:14+0100

lynall said:
I think you will that weld is nowhere near the cooling jacket and the block has cracked as something has let go in the bottom end in the past.

Looks like you may be right. Lots of evidence inside the block, including more JB weld, a nice gouge in the crank and something dented and scraped the upper portion of the sump. All the con rods have too much end play, can hear them move when I try to wiggle them. Removed one piston and the wrist pin end float seems way too big. Didn’t have much time to check it for sure.

tottot · 2025-04-24T07:52:38+0100

A right "cowboy" repair there [apology to real cowboys] Looks like a rod likely gave way, the sort of thing that happens when engine gets hydro locked.

lynall · 2025-04-24T19:12:31+0100

Doogal Too said:
Looks like you may be right. Lots of evidence inside the block, including more JB weld, a nice gouge in the crank and something dented and scraped the upper portion of the sump. All the con rods have too much end play, can hear them move when I try to wiggle them. Removed one piston and the wrist pin end float seems way too big. Didn’t have much time to check it for sure.

Still might be salvagable, maybe pull it apart and take the parts to an engineering firm to see what they say, but a known good or reman engine might be the better bet.

Not sure where you are in the world you are? but I can highly recommend the 200tdi motor, but you will need earplugs! though do not let that put you off as they are excellent engines.

Doogal Too · 2025-04-24T21:34:03+0100

I’m almost right in the middle of the US. A 200di would actually be perfect. But wow those engines are pricey now. Though rebuilding the 2.25 isnt cheap either. Already up to around $2800 just in parts (not purchased yet). It has me considering a swap to something easier to obtain here. Probably will cost more up front but this truck is staying with us as long as I live.

Help with engine block markings and other recommendations

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