Help TD5 won't turn over

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T

Troll

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Help needed before I trade the bl00dy thing in as it keeps breaking down on the wife.

OK, TD5, 2000 model, new battery in January as it was turning slow, been fine for a few months.

Now about 4 times now the thing just won't turn over, but if you jump it, it starts straight away. Last weekend I took the earth off the battery and the chassis, cleaned them all and made sure they were tight, thought that might of solved it. Battery voltage was good and looks like it charging well too.

Well, wife has just rung me saying it done it again and it won't turn over, daughters in tears as she now can't go to a birthday party:(

It can't be a battery drain issue as sometimes you only have to leave it 5 mins and it doesn't turn over..

Any ideas what it can be??

Will get my multimeter out on it when I get home..

suppose to be going camping in it tomorrow :confused:

Thanks,
Mark
 
Fur Trapper said:
Is your alternator fecked , or starter connection messed up
Click to expand...

I measured the battery voltage when car was running and it was correctly 14.9 ish volts.. This is really intermittent, it can be fine for weeks and it normally starts as soon as you turn the key.

Will check the starter relay tonight in case thats on its last legs.

cheeRS,
Mark
 
Check the battery very throughly first - there are a surprising number of crap new batteries around, and the fact that it jump starts straight away suggests to me at least that eveything else seems to be working.
It should still be under guarantee so you might be able to swap it out if you can take it back to wherever you got it. I had exactly the same problem and tried everything - it was the battery in the end
 
Troll said:
Help needed before I trade the bl00dy thing in as it keeps breaking down on the wife.

OK, TD5, 2000 model, new battery in January as it was turning slow, been fine for a few months.

Now about 4 times now the thing just won't turn over, but if you jump it, it starts straight away. Last weekend I took the earth off the battery and the chassis, cleaned them all and made sure they were tight, thought that might of solved it. Battery voltage was good and looks like it charging well too.

Well, wife has just rung me saying it done it again and it won't turn over, daughters in tears as she now can't go to a birthday party:(

It can't be a battery drain issue as sometimes you only have to leave it 5 mins and it doesn't turn over..

Any ideas what it can be??

Will get my multimeter out on it when I get home..

suppose to be going camping in it tomorrow :confused:

Thanks,
Mark
Click to expand...
can you here it click when you go to start it ,they are prone to solenoid contacts ,which can be cheaply got from ebay LANDROVER DISCOVERY SERIES 2 1998 - 04 TD5 2.5 DIESEL STARTER MOTOR REPAIR KIT | eBay
 
As James says, definitely check for a click when turning the key. If it just goes click, click and maybe sometimes turns over, the odds are the solenoid contacts. I have had trouble with these contacts on both TD5's I have owned.
 
OK update, get home tonight, wait for a gap in the rain.hailstones, wifey gets in truck turns key it goes click, then while I am opening bonnet there a sound like a pop. Get her to try again and it bloody starts!!

So that rules out battery..

This solenoid, can anyone tell me where it is, is it on the s/motor? Is there any temp workaround you know like a big hammer like I used to use on my MK2 Escorts lol

Also just noticed the sunroof leaking down to the rear view mirrow and the sunroof motor has stopped working...

Sounds like a time to trade it in!!

cheers for the response guy's.

Mark
 
underneath starter end cap can be removed after undoing securing bolts ,plunger pulls out and contacts can be seen that plunger connects too
 
jamesmartin said:
underneath starter end cap can be removed after undoing securing bolts ,plunger pulls out and contacts can be seen that plunger connects too
Click to expand...

cheers James, I have had some time now to do a seqarch on here and found a few threads that suggest you can do it without removing the S/motor,

I will order the kit of ebay now and try it next week sometime.. Will take a hammer on holiday with me tomorrow just in case lol

<M>
 
Troll said:
cheers James, I have had some time now to do a seqarch on here and found a few threads that suggest you can do it without removing the S/motor,

I will order the kit of ebay now and try it next week sometime.. Will take a hammer on holiday with me tomorrow just in case lol

<M>
Click to expand...
yes, i never remove starter to do them ,just cleaning plunger often helps a while
 
Make sure you disconnect the battery before taking it all apart though!

I bought a repair kit for my old 1998 starter and when I got the old contacts out they were not too bad compared to the new ones. Still had plenty of meat on them and a quick touch up with a small file and a quick whizz on the polishing wheel and they were as good as new. Three years later still running strong. I've kept the repair kit for when I really need them.

I also kept the brand new shiny starter that came with my new engine which is still in its box just in case. Sods law says I'll never need it but I'd lay money that as soon as I sold it I'd need one.
 
Mine only breaks down when the wife is in it - easy fix but probably cheaper to get a new LR ! Had the same problem with the starter a few months ago, bought the ebay repair kit and everythings fine now (still have the wife and the Disco!).
 
cheers guy's, well the ebay kit arrived over the weekend whilst I was away, just got to wait for a few dry hours to install it.

The disco didn't let us down all weekend which was good.

The campsite we went to in Dorset, had a Range rover rally lot staying there plus a load of off road disco's there too, which came back very muddy every evening... Shame we didn't tag along...
 
Mine had a similar problem, it turned out to be the ignition lockcontacts (don't know if that's the correct word for it, but it's the acc-on-start thing)
 
Well today I took the plunge and decided to do a few jobs on the Disco while I had a few days off.

After the wife treated me to a nice fry up in town I went back and decided the first job to tackle was the s/motor solonoid.

After finding the s/motor I thought bl00dy hell this ain't gonna be easy!! right then I decided to remove the s/motor compleatly rather than try fit in situ, which I am glad I did.

As peeps have said the hardest part is to undo the top 15mm nut, luckerly I have small hands which helps a lot and I managed to get a socket on said nut pretty much straight away. The 2 13mm bolts cam off pretty easy too as did the 2 wires.

S/motor on bench out with the instructions and stripped it down, looking at the contacts it was very clear they were worn.

fitted new ones easily enough, and put the s/motor back into the truck. I decided to attach the nut first which was a real PITA job. my arms were aching so I put a bolt it and went for a cup of tea.

bloody weather was terrible, I had to keep stopping when the rain hammered down, including hail!!

After 6;30pm I thought I would try again, went straight out there and got the nut on first time.. result. did other bolts up, connected the wires and checked it started... result it did.

Lets hope it solves the problem as that was a nightmare job..

tomorrow, its re-seal the front sunroof and fit EGR bypass kit!! rain permitting

one thing I noticed when I put the truck back on its wheels was that the rear was sunk down on one side, it this normal after jacking it up?? I seem to rem this last time I jacked it up

wish me luck.

Mark
 
As you say, getting that top nut off and on is a real PITA. Also never tried doing in situ, may be OK on a ramp, but not on a hard drive with the rain pelting down!! Easier to take the whole thing off and repair on the bench.
Re your next job(s) watch out for the EGR removal. Make sure the two manifold Allen keys are well soaked in WD40 for a few days beforehand. Eventually I had to take the Exhaust manifold off to get these bolts out.
On the positive side, did not not notice much difference removing the EGR, but after about 1000 miles or so, I am noticing better MPG and more responsive engine. Have fun!
 
DerekT said:
As you say, getting that top nut off and on is a real PITA. Also never tried doing in situ, may be OK on a ramp, but not on a hard drive with the rain pelting down!! Easier to take the whole thing off and repair on the bench.
Re your next job(s) watch out for the EGR removal. Make sure the two manifold Allen keys are well soaked in WD40 for a few days beforehand. Eventually I had to take the Exhaust manifold off to get these bolts out.
On the positive side, did not not notice much difference removing the EGR, but after about 1000 miles or so, I am noticing better MPG and more responsive engine. Have fun!
Click to expand...


Yes not fun laying on yr back in the rain under a disco!! still I got it done so I am well happy.

I have most of the interior already out in preperation of doing the front sunroof too.

I did read about these bolts, I soaked then the other day when I cleaned the MAP & MAF sensors, and again tonight, so lets hope they don't snap.

Re the MAp & MAF sensors, wow what a difference they made cleaning them, even the wife commented on how it took off a lot quicker afterwards.... just wait till she drives my Focus RS then lol

<M>
 
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