Help! Starter solenoid almost causing fire!

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joefuller

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17
Hi all, newbie to both this forum and Land Rover ownership here so pls be gentle!

I took delivery of a 1984 Series 3 diesel 2.3 non-turbo on Friday and my dad noticed some sparking coming from around the starter solenoid connections whilst running. I didn't use it over the weekend but put the battery on charge as it hadn't been used for a while. This morning when cranking it I smelled a strong electrical burning smell and saw that the sparks were much worse, to the point of being a small flame- even when not running and not cranking.

I have disconnected the battery (it was connected correctly btw) and am intending to re-make all the solenoid connections to ensure they are tight and also trace the thick cable back to the battery +ve terminal to check for shorts. Can anyone suggest any other actions that may help?

I have attached a photo of the 'spark'- it's the bright white bit! For clarity, this was taken with the battery connected but not cranking or engine running.

Hoping someone can help!

Joe
 

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1) suggest you go to introduce yoself (natives get uppitty if yu dont).
2) never ignore smoke/sparks/flames
3 pull the main power cable away from the starter motor housing. it looks like the insulation is bent back and thats yo problem.
 
Arcing like that is pretty simple. Examine the area of the lug on the cable - my suspicion would be cracked or broken insulation on the battery cable or the lug letting the electricity arc to ground.

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE MUCKING ABOUT IN THAT AREA! There, now tha that's said...

Disconnect the cable completely and pull the end up to examine it. If you've got burned or cracked insulation it will be pretty obvious. If that is the case, either renew the insulation with heavy shrink tubing or the like, reterminate the battery cable if long enough and you can crimp on a proper terminal, or replace the battery hot cable.

ajr
 
That looks like the connector is arcing on the body.

As has been said previously, re-make the connection, but if you can't just straighten it out a bit away from the frame earth.
 
I agree with everything the others have said about the immediate problem, but I'd also be concerned that anyone who has used a chocolate block connector (as seen on one of the other wires) is a bodger who has done other daft or dangerous things. Is there a grommet where the bunch of cables goes through the bulkhead? Not clear from the photo, but if there isn't, the same vibration that loosens your teeth while you're driving will soon wear through cable insulation.

Kevin
 
Welcome to landrover ownership as said cable is to close to the casing of the solenoid and is arcing over the crud one the arc has started it will deposit carbon and can track even easier then so clean the area as well as insulate.
 
This morning when cranking it I smelled a strong electrical burning smell and saw that the sparks were much worse, to the point of being a small flame- even when not running and not cranking.

I have disconnected the battery (it was connected correctly btw) and am intending to re-make all the solenoid connections to ensure they are tight and also trace the thick cable back to the battery +ve terminal to check for shorts. Can anyone suggest any other actions that may help?

Right, I wouldn't bother looking anywhere else as that's where your problem is. A short elsewhere isn't going to cause a spark and smoke there!

As has been suggested you want to sort all the wiring, it looks to me, and this is just my opinion, like the connection from the battery wire to the lug is old, probably oxidised up inside causing increased resistance, arcing from any broken wires etc which is getting super hot (it's like a welder now) and the oil and grease on the cable is burning.

I don't think it is the battery cable touching the body of the starter or else it would ALWAYS do this with the battery connected as this cable is permanently live. It also won't be arcing across to the starter body, any arcing is when the bad condition connection is under load and power is being forced to take the easiest route through some iffy metal to metal interfaces or across frayed strands. I would probably get a new battery cable to be honest, go to an auto electricians and see if they will make you up a piece of cable with the ends properly crimped on, sealed up and using a good quality high strand count cable. A blast of solder of the lot won't to any harm either.
 
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