Help needed with my engine faults

Hi
Just plugged my new nanocom into my 2003 TD5 Auto which has had the exhaust middle section removed, been re-mapped, and the EGR removed.
This is my list of faults:
36-01
Inlet air temperature circuit
CURRENT
---
36-03
coolant temperature circuit
CURRENT
---
36-04
battery voltage problem
CURRENT
---
38-07
driver demand supply problem
CURRENT
---
39-01
Cruise control lamp drive over temperature
LOGGED
---
39-07
EGR vacum modulatore schort citcuit
LOGGED
---
40-01
air conditioning fan drive over temperature
LOGGED
---
40-02
fuel pump drive over temperature
LOGGED
---
40-05
air conditioning clutch over temperature
LOGGED
---
40-07
glowplug relay drive overtemperature
LOGGED
---
41-01
fuel used output drive open load
LOGGED
---
41-05
turbocharger wastegate open load
LOGGED
---
41-06
EGR inlett throttle open load
LOGGED
---
42-05
air conditioning clutch open load
LOGGED
---
42-06
mil lamp drive open load
LOGGED

I'm not sure where to start so any advise would be greatly appreciated

Have you checked the red ECU plug for oil ?.

Del.

Sorry - should have mentioned new injector loom not long ago, and the ECU plug cleaned several times until it became clean and dry.

have the faults been cleared off since then?
otherwise you could be looking at a load of old faults.

If it is driving fine, then I'd clear the faults, and check it again in a day or so, to see what was really going on.

MW

Mike Whiskey said:

have the faults been cleared off since then?
otherwise you could be looking at a load of old faults.

If it is driving fine, then I'd clear the faults, and check it again in a day or so, to see what was really going on.

MW

Click to expand...

I agree wiv the above ^^^

ratty said:

I agree wiv the above ^^^

Click to expand...

Me too

Not sure on the form here.
Am I supposed to quote you both in my sig now, or should i just sit here and feel smug? lol
MW

Mike Whiskey said:

Not sure on the form here.
Am I supposed to quote you both in my sig now, or should i just sit here and feel smug? lol
MW

Click to expand...

Smug should cover it for now

Hi

The faults were all cleared and have since re-appeared.

The car starts first time, ticks over well, and runs reasonably until you put it under load when it really starts to struggle. All the readings from the nanocom are what you would expect ie air flow from 58 at tickover to 660 under load, turbo 100 at tickover up to 220 under load, battery usually over 14 volts etc.

Hope this helps.

Oh right.

When I first plugged my HawKye in I lost count of all the fault codes on it, I just assumed that 5 odd years things being dissconnected had thrown them up.

I cleared them all, and to date, none have returned.


Hit the button man !!!!.





Del.

50 pence said:

Oh right.


Hit the button man !!!!.


Del.

Click to expand...

Just plugged it in Cleared faults started it up and read the faults again

file attached

ingy said:

Just plugged it in Cleared faults started it up and read the faults again

file attached

Click to expand...

I,ve never seen anything like that I,m afraid.

So for that reason,............I,m out !.


I assume the car runs ok. Or have you a list of problems a mile long ?.


Del.

The car runs fine until I go uphill or put my box trailer on the back then it needs a lot of revs and uses a lot of fuel. I wish I could be a dragon and declare myself out, but thats not going to happen. I will get to the bottom of it, I was just hoping someone could help me decide where best to start. I am quite capable of doing a lot of the work myself, recently I removed the intercooler and the inlet manifold and cleaned them out.

The one fault that always seems be be there is the battery voltage problem so I will get an auto electrician to test it properly incase it is not got all the currants the truck needs.

Low battery often causes problems with other voltage reading sensors, so that sounds a reasonable first step.

MW

Mike Whiskey said:

Low battery often causes problems with other voltage reading sensors, so that sounds a reasonable first step.

MW

Click to expand...

That's my initial thought too as it is showing a low battery warning on the list. My first step would be to see what the battery and alternator voltages are.

I would ignore the whole lot of those faults - they are wrong,typical of a generic reader.Save yerself some time and probably money too by sticking it on Testbook.

Update.

New battery fitted yesterday, all faults now cleared and running almost as it should. The only thing that shows now is odd readings for the injectors. At idle I have one which reads -5 to -9, and one which reads +4 to +8.. Under load they all seem reasonable, but when I take my foot off the gas peddle they can read anything between 50 and minus 50. Is this normal or do I have a problem?

They seem like big numbers to me.

At idle, mine read +/- up to 3 or 4 tops.
The biggest numbers I,ve seen, ( in and out of the revs ), is +/- 20 ish.

The ECU " adapts " to each injector, and if it is unable to do this it will logg a fault.

Keep you eye on your fault readings to see if this is a problem.

You can check your wiring by doing a resistance check from the red plug of the ECU, up trough the injector wiring, through the injector and back down quite easily. ( this will help rule out a wiring fault or narrow down an injector ).

You said youve changed the injector harness ?, and does the car run and go fine ?.


Del.

I will try the resistance check tomorrow. The car runs well until you try to accelerate uphill, or when towing. Between 2000 and 3000 revs under load it is just more noise but not much more power.
Attached is a recent diagnostics file from a 10 mile run to work. I have very little to compare it with, so it would be helpful if someone could have a look at it and see if there is anything there that I may have missed.

Thanks
Ingy

How long have you had the car ?. How long has it not been running properly ?. Does it smoke ?. Is it ok on fuel ?. Does it make any odd engine noises ?.
Is it manual or auto ?.


Del.