Disco 1 HELP/ADVICE needed300TDI Disco 1

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I'd definitely check the radiator. If you have an infrared temperature gun, check both sides of the radiator too, you should see a significant difference in temperature if water is flowing through correctly. (and the fan is operating)

This will help to tell you if there is a blockage (which could also be a dodgy thermostat)
 
Simon098 said:
I'd definitely check the radiator. If you have an infrared temperature gun, check both sides of the radiator too, you should see a significant difference in temperature if water is flowing through correctly. (and the fan is operating)
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no fancy tools here just the torque wrench a "special tool number1" (hammer) some spanners and my eyecrometer lol

well i have some sockets and other tools but nothing fancy or posh lol
 
ceffyn said:
no fancy tools here just the torque wrench a "special tool number1" (hammer) some spanners and my eyecrometer lol

well i have some sockets and other tools but nothing fancy or posh lol
Click to expand...

You should be able to feel the difference
ceffyn said:
no fancy tools here just the torque wrench a "special tool number1" (hammer) some spanners and my eyecrometer lol

well i have some sockets and other tools but nothing fancy or posh lol
Click to expand...

Be my guest to use your hand :p
 
Simon098 said:
You should be able to feel the difference


Be my guest to use your hand :p
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im assuming im checking for even cover so start her up "COLD" and then run my hand back and forth on the rad while its warming if it all gets too hot to touch its all clear lol my hands are used to getting burnt on hot engines and parts so i should be fine. also helps im a medic so can fix myself if im not haha
 
ceffyn said:
im assuming im checking for even cover so start her up "COLD" and then run my hand back and forth on the rad while its warming if it all gets too hot to touch its all clear lol my hands are used to getting burnt on hot engines and parts so i should be fine. also helps im a medic so can fix myself if im not haha
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to check a rad is cooling ,get engine well up to temp 8 miles or so switch off and put your hand on rad through the fan checking as much surface as you can
 
ceffyn said:
im assuming im checking for even cover so start her up "COLD" and then run my hand back and forth on the rad while its warming if it all gets too hot to touch its all clear lol my hands are used to getting burnt on hot engines and parts so i should be fine. also helps im a medic so can fix myself if im not haha
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hahahaha.

You'll need to wait until it's warmed up, otherwise the thermostat doesn't open and theres no flow through the radiator anyway. Wait until the gauge reads centre, then check for a temperature drop across the radiator, I wouldn't recommend using your hands as it's not exactly accurate or safe. But if you get a drop across it, then the thermostat is working and there's a flow. However, if you have a partial blockage, you may get a difference, but you won't have the flow thats required to cool the engine.

It could well be that you have a blown head gasket, but it's always good to check the cooling system is working properly first.
 
james/simon, i know the thermo wont open until temp but the rad wont go from cold to hot in an instant either my plan was just let it do its thing ticking over (fan removed) checking every few mins until a temp change then feel for even heating up of the rad. but yeah know it could be head gasket and my pump is squealing so gonna change that and sort the cooling system first either way. have you watched the video i posted a few posts back! if yes whats your thoughts on it lol

edit: hand is not so much a choice its what i have that dont cost me anything. cash as always is tight and i would rather spend more on decent parts than "sometimes" useful tools.
 
ceffyn said:
james/simon, i know the thermo wont open until temp but the rad wont go from cold to hot in an instant either my plan was just let it do its thing ticking over (fan removed) checking every few mins until a temp change then feel for even heating up of the rad. but yeah know it could be head gasket and my pump is squealing so gonna change that and sort the cooling system first either way. have you watched the video i posted a few posts back! if yes whats your thoughts on it lol
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why ,waiting is torture just get it up to temp then check
 
ceffyn said:
as i said i would time for the update first here is a video .....


secondly my temp gauge still go's up to normal and blowers stay hot...

finally the water pump/pulley squealing like a pig in a slaughter house.

only took it on a short trip about 3 miles stayed under 2k rev's by time i got to where i was going thermo housing was empty and res was almost full.
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its likely you need a new gasket ,but rad check is still vital as its often the cause of head gasket issues
 
new questions parts related.
water pump QUINTON HAZELL or Bearmach?
head gasket OEM or Bearmach?
other than the obvious water pump gasket what other gaskets should i be getting?

putting together a shopping list on bearmach now ready for collection :)
 
ceffyn said:
as i said i would time for the update first here is a video .....


secondly my temp gauge still go's up to normal and blowers stay hot...

finally the water pump/pulley squealing like a pig in a slaughter house.

only took it on a short trip about 3 miles stayed under 2k rev's by time i got to where i was going thermo housing was empty and res was almost full.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately it looks very much like the beginning of a cylinder compression into cooling jacket head gasket blow, the bubbles are tiny, but it's accumulative effect in a closed cooling system means that the gasses displace the coolant.
It will only get worse the more you use it, and if coolant is going back the other way after shutdown the cylinder will corrode or could even hydraulic on startup.
 
got the parts to do water pump and head gasket figured may as well do it all first as last and as soon as its done i'll test the rad if it needs doing also then that will be next and disco will stay off the road until i get it.

question as always with me. is there a way i can test the rad with it off or with it in place while i have everything in bits!
 
ok so started the strip down first thing i have noticed is the water pump seems to be in working order with no play or broken bits :( (still going to fit the new one)
got a question about the "bleed hose" (thin one by the header tank with what looks to be a small valve and 3 pipes) how should that valve work i can blow through it in all directions from all pipes! is it broke! how crucial is that part right now! what damage will it cause!

will post some pics later/tomorrow when the damn rain f**ks off so i can carry on. will also get pics of it when the head is off for you guys to put an eyeball on and see if you can spot anything that i cant or that i dont know about (there's a lot i dont know about pmsl but i am learning)
 
P gasket. You will unclamp most of the loading force on the P-gasket when you undo the water pump - might pay to have a gasket available just in case.

I'd also have a set of waterpump bolts, especially the long ones in case the buggers prove awkward, and if they stat housing and rad have plastic plugs swap them for brass ones.
 
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