Disco 1 HELP/ADVICE needed300TDI Disco 1

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
20170720_173051.jpg
20170720_173032.jpg
 
got some cleaning done just need it to stop raining now so i can go clean off the rest of the gasket and get it ready for going back on.

any suggestions on best way to de-coke the pistons or should i just leave them be! when the weather stops raining i'll get some better pics of them.
 

Attachments

  • clean parts .jpg
    clean parts .jpg
    194.1 KB · Views: 68
ceffyn said:
got some cleaning done just need it to stop raining now so i can go clean off the rest of the gasket and get it ready for going back on.

any suggestions on best way to de-coke the pistons or should i just leave them be! when the weather stops raining i'll get some better pics of them.
Click to expand...
Unless you are removing the pistons to replace rings etc it is better not to disturb the carbon deposits on them or at the top of the cylinder bore unless it appears excessive.
 
ok so i've rebuild the old girl and she's sounding better than ever running smoother than ever ( i suspect mostly due to the valves now being set right). but im still getting air up in the thermo housing and my res filling up with coolant. if i run it with the thermo cap off it still bubbles slowly and gently. its new head gasket and new water pump where/what else could be my issue. i dont want her to die and im loving the learning but im out of cash and need to make sure i fix the right things if im going into debt lol
 
ceffyn said:
ok so i've rebuild the old girl and she's sounding better than ever running smoother than ever ( i suspect mostly due to the valves now being set right). but im still getting air up in the thermo housing and my res filling up with coolant. if i run it with the thermo cap off it still bubbles slowly and gently. its new head gasket and new water pump where/what else could be my issue. i dont want her to die and im loving the learning but im out of cash and need to make sure i fix the right things if im going into debt lol
Click to expand...
Has the cooling system been bled correctly?
Did you eventually have the head pressure tested before putting it back on?
You did mention that there was a small crack visible in between the valves in one cylinder, number 2 I believe.
The sad reality is, with all the effort and expense you have gone through could be wasted if the head has a crack that is still leaking compression into the coolant.
Is the bubbling still the same as shown in the previous video?
 
Gazbo said:
Has the cooling system been bled correctly?
Did you eventually have the head pressure tested before putting it back on?
You did mention that there was a small crack visible in between the valves in one cylinder, number 2 I believe.
The sad reality is, with all the effort and expense you have gone through could be wasted if the head has a crack that is still leaking compression into the coolant.
Is the bubbling still the same as shown in the previous video?
Click to expand...
no the head wasnt tested and yes it was bled correctly. its not quite the same as it was before its less that it was. the strange thing is im not losing any coolant from what i can tell. there's not any in the oil. but what is happening is the res tank is filling up and then staying full. the thermo housing is always just at the very bottom of it. and the blowers always stay hot. only other thing i did when putting it back together was new jubilee clips on the hoses but i cant see any signs of leaks or anything its driving me nuts. have got a temp gun on its way though ordered that the other day when so many said it was best and only good way to test the rad. hoping that will be here friday.

semi related to the same thing the bleed pipe or whatever with the valve. can it be put on the wrong way and what will it cause if it is!

edit: should prob mention that even if i take the res tank cap off and the thermo housing bleed plug the water still remains in the res.
 
ceffyn said:
no the head wasnt tested and yes it was bled correctly. its not quite the same as it was before its less that it was. the strange thing is im not losing any coolant from what i can tell. there's not any in the oil. but what is happening is the res tank is filling up and then staying full. the thermo housing is always just at the very bottom of it. and the blowers always stay hot. only other thing i did when putting it back together was new jubilee clips on the hoses but i cant see any signs of leaks or anything its driving me nuts. have got a temp gun on its way though ordered that the other day when so many said it was best and only good way to test the rad. hoping that will be here friday.

semi related to the same thing the bleed pipe or whatever with the valve. can it be put on the wrong way and what will it cause if it is!

edit: should prob mention that even if i take the res tank cap off and the thermo housing bleed plug the water still remains in the res.
Click to expand...
That "bleed pipe valve" can usually be done without in some cases it is replaced with just a simple "T" piece, so I would not think that is causing your bubble trouble.
So if you now "box up" the whole cooling system, fully bled and filled to correct capacity and take the beast for a thrash up hill and down dale, or normal running in other words, if all is ok it should not oveheat nor discharge the coolant.
If you have not done this regular running "test" then you cannot know if it's fixed proper like, just idling is a lot easier on engine temp and engine compression, the possible leak source.
My 300 Tdi can sit and idle away all day and the temperature gauge will not get off its bum, and that's in our tropical climate.
I can understand your frustration at it and the pressure it's putting you under I have to say you are a patient and calm chappie, I would have "blown a gasket" by now, but I'm not the world's most patient and calm fellow when things go awry.
Good luck with it.
 
been running it took it for a few runs low/high speeds. tried bleeding before after and during trips all give me same results.
if one of you wants to explain "boxing up" my cooling system i'll be more than happy to go another round. got the patience and time on my hands while im skint may as well be trying something lol
 
ceffyn said:
been running it took it for a few runs low/high speeds. tried bleeding before after and during trips all give me same results.
if one of you wants to explain "boxing up" my cooling system i'll be more than happy to go another round. got the patience and time on my hands while im skint may as well be trying something lol
Click to expand...
Pardon my terminologies, I, at one early stage of my working career I worked on steam turbines in Power Stations, "boxing up" simply referred to getting everything back together after a major stripdown and overhaul, sort of like packing all the bits into one package and taping up all the loose ends for the run up to return to service, I continued to use the terminology into my mining heavy diesel equipment days for engine and machinery overhauls, so no biggie.
 
Gazbo said:
Pardon my terminologies, I, at one early stage of my working career I worked on steam turbines in Power Stations, "boxing up" simply referred to getting everything back together after a major stripdown and overhaul, sort of like packing all the bits into one package and taping up all the loose ends for the run up to return to service, I continued to use the terminology into my mining heavy diesel equipment days for engine and machinery overhauls, so no biggie.
Click to expand...
haha in that case consider it all boxed up :)
as you can tell im still learning also haha or i prob wouldnt have needed to ask about that haha.

anyone got a special bleed method thats not in the RAVE software for me to try throw up your suggestions i'll try them all pmsl
 
So lets get this right !
It's running great ! it's quieter ! it's not over heating ! & it's not chucking water out of the header tank ! but it's got a few bubbles into the header tank !
Run it for another 100 thousand miles then scrap it ! :)
 
Magicgrotto said:
So lets get this right !
It's running great ! it's quieter ! it's not over heating ! & it's not chucking water out of the header tank ! but it's got a few bubbles into the header tank !
Run it for another 100 thousand miles then scrap it ! :)
Click to expand...
yeah running quieter, feeling smoother. temp gauge telling lies and not showing over normal but i suspect thats due to the lack of water in the thermo housing. blowers stay HOT to a point with them on i have my both front windows open all the way so i can breath. just keeps filling the damn header tank and emptying the thermo housing. the bubbles are small and few but they clearly fill up enough. the one thing i dont get is even when its off and the header and thermo are both open the water wont return to the thermo housing. even when parked at an angle and with the header tank FULL. its like its letting it out of the system but not back in.
 
small update been for another spin but this time with dual purpose lol heat up the system on the car and to get a damn bleed valve from the local ish (3 miles 1 bypass) plumbers.

something i have noticed now is that the small pipe from the rad to the "valve" isn't getting anywhere near the temp of all the others temp still only running up to normal on the gauge and header tank still filling itself up lol i will win this fight (it just might take a while lol)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
HELP!!! engine overheating - at the end of my tether!
2 3
Replies
52
Views
3K
bendisco
B
S
The four amigos and fault 85
Replies
2
Views
236
Spuddo
S
B
TD5 Temp gauge drops to 1/4
Replies
2
Views
173
Bugz
B
P
Loss of coolant - 2008 Range Rover
2
Replies
27
Views
1K
Parkheadbhoy
P
M
Discovery 4 - Limp Mode Cold Start Manifold absolute pressure issues
Replies
2
Views
373
Graculus
Graculus
Back
Top