Headlight problems - with video

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kuunder90

New Member
Posts
155
Location
West Midlands
Hi all,

Having problems again! (does it ever stop:doh:)

My 90 is due for it's MOT this week and I've only just had my indicator problem sorted, I've now found that my headlights are not working properly; getting a little bit fed up with it now...

Dimmed and normal work fine but when I switch to the high beam only the left side works and the right side switches off completely.
When I use the "flasher" (not sure what the proper name for it is, sorry) the left light works fine and the right one stays on Normal:

- Low/dimmed: works fine
- Normal: works fine
- High: Left works fine, Right does not work at all
- Flash: Left works fine, Right stays on Normal

I have also found that the interior light has stopped working, not sure if this is related though:eek:

I've made a quick video of it:
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGICkStA0wY"]YouTube - Land Rover 90 Headlights[/nomedia]

Any help would be much appreciated:D
 
Looks like live feeding back.
I would check all the earths and all the connectors.
Gonna be time consuming, but worth it.
 
Thanks guys, I'll take the headlight out tommorow; just hope its something simple.
Spent £190 last month on getting my indicators sorted; which turned out to be a something shorting behind the dash:frown:
Will update as soon as I know more.
 
It all looks absolutely, perfectly normal to me!

Your drivers side high beam is out, A because the bulb is knackered or B because there is a loose wire to the high feed.

When you use "flash", it momentarily switches on the high beam circuit, as it's just a quick flash, but the relay that controls the dipped beam also stays on. Thats normal. Then when you switch your full beams on, it switches OFF the dipped beam and switches on the high beam only.

In your case the high beam on the drivers side is out, hence why you never see it, but the passenger side behaves as it should!

A modification that is often made is people will rewire their headlight high beams so that they can burn both filaments at the same time, lamps don't last as long and you need to beef up the earth wire as it's not rated for the full continuous current.
 
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Now I think about the control aspect of it there is no relay, it's all done from the switches - well it is on mine and according to the wiring diagram I have. My above post remains correct, only it should read, "When you use "flash", it momentarily switches on the high beam circuit, as it's just a quick flash, but the switch maintains the dipped beam circuit."

If you only have dipped or flash, then take a look at the contacts on your dip/high switch. When you pull it towards you it simply makes contact for the high beam to come on too, when you push it away it disconnects the dipped beam and connects only the high.

Look at the switch, the contacts can get dirty and or the metal fatigues and doesn't push up against the terminal hard enough.
 
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a quick solution would be to run a wire from one headlight over to the other, as long as the single feed to one head light will take the amps for both
 
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a quick solution would be to run a wire from one headlight over to the other, as long as the single feed to one head light will take the amps for both

WHY? Nothing is broken! And the wiring wouldn't cope, it is only rated to 7.5A, 120W @ 12v = 10amps.

It all looks absolutely, perfectly normal to me!

His drivers side high beam is out, A because the bulb is knackered or B because there is a loose wire to the high feed.

When he uses "flash", it momentarily switches on the high beam circuit, as it's just a quick flash, but the circuit that controls the dipped beam also stays on. Thats normal. Then when he switchs his full beams on, it switches OFF the dipped beam and switches on the high beam only.
 
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