Combusting wires - one big FUBAR

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amsthenovice

New Member
Posts
5
Location
Cumbria
This is such a long shot - I'm looking for advice before I embark on the impossible 🫡

Mine is a 1983 Land rover 110- technically pre defender, and so it's not all Defender parts, some seem to be Series. It's had a lifetime of bodging before I got her 4 years ago. For context, a few months ago the brake light on the passenger side died - I could not figure it out, after 3 days I succumbed to the local Series/Defender specialist garage who also could not figure out WTF was up with the wiring and resorted to chopping the loom off where it exited the chassis and starting completely fresh. In his own words, despite having been fine for 4 years "it works til it doesn't"

So the current issue at hand, in short form:
during a long drive the wire to the headlights combusted - headlights still worked, did leave melted wire insulation so fairly traceable

While later, passenger side headlight has no dipped but still high beam

While later, storm bert meant the indicators and drash died completely

I finally got round to addressing these problems- the dash dried out and came alive . Replaced the flasher relay as this is common in soggy Cumbria, no cigar. Not even coming up on the dash. Replaced headlight at the same time.

BEFORE faffing : PS no sidelight, no main. DS sidelight and main. DURING : PS sidelight, no main, but high beam. DS no sidelight, main and high beam. Then, PS side and main and high, DS side and main and high. AFTER: PS side, no main, but high and DS side and main and high.

So - what would you do? Hunt down the elusive wiring, chop out a portion of loom, replace the entire loom, run new wires... What's your poison? I'd like to give it a bash at least before I drop it off defeated at the garage, if only to save face. That and an astronomical bill.


For context, she used to be a petrol NA, at some point was a V6, and is now a diesel Perkins 4.182. The hazards haven't worked in a while, before the headlight issue - fixed em briefly before they gave up again. She is our spare car and with a 6 month old I don't get time to tinker as much, hence the problem pyramid 🙃👍
 
Firstly, it’s an earth issue it always is 🤔.
Then it’s corroded connectors or fuses.
These are all free and easy to check.
What is your level with electric do you have a meter to check?

What fuses do you have? (Pics help as it may have been bodged).

J
 
As above check clean earth connections, where they are can be found on line.
Electrikity is a barsteward if the earth it needs to work goes absent. It will then do its best to find its own way back to batt using a cable it should not or even the speedo or handbrake cable. Result is something melts.
Second @marjon above about fuses. The Early one ten like yours had old glass type and are a known problem area. A good clean of all connections will help. Folk often fit later blade type fuse box
 
Also it's worth checking the resistance of fuses as well as whether electricity will flow through them at all. I had one suddenly decide it wanted to be 70 ohms, so my indicators didn't work.
 
Brilliant thanks all - yep still rocking the glass fuses box, interestingly the wires had burnt up to the box on the positive side but not on the other side of the fuse, and the fuse was working though never thought to check the resistance! I do have a multimeter that I like to crack out and pretend I know what I'm doing with, though any tips would be gratefully received.

Could you remind me where the earth points should be?? It's pretty mucky under there and I don't want to miss one
 
Early One ten's may differ from later models.
Main earth will be from battery negative to wherever, follow and clean terminals. Should be another from engine to chassis.
There will be minor ones for other services, light units, heater fan, wiper motor and there should be one behind the instrument cluster.
 
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