Head lights shining into the ground.

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There's a couple of screws which can be used to do this. You shouldn't need to take anything off to adjust them - see this piccy and you'll see in the top and left edges of the surround for the headlights there's a slight indentation where you can slot a screwdriver in to adjust the lights. (Provided they're mounted correctly that is).
 
If they're standard S111 sealed beam units then the only answer is to drive at no more than 30mph at night or trim the wicks every 10 leagues. Fit driving lights or do a halogen headlight conversion.
 
oxides said:
If they're standard S111 sealed beam units then the only answer is to drive at no more than 30mph at night or trim the wicks every 10 leagues. Fit driving lights or do a halogen headlight conversion.
Click to expand...

standard lights on a series are fine, if they are correctly adjusted

only numpties fit driving lights, and as for fitting a halogen conversion ........

:(
 
Sean said:
standard lights on a series are fine, if they are correctly adjusted

only numpties fit driving lights, and as for fitting a halogen conversion ........

:(
Click to expand...

We had to buy new headlight surrounds to get them adjusted correctly, due to previous owners 'adjustments' and wiring botches. However, replacement halogen units (Paddocks about £30 I think) made quite a big difference and didn't look out of place.
 
Paul D said:
We had to buy new headlight surrounds to get them adjusted correctly, due to previous owners 'adjustments' and wiring botches. However, replacement halogen units (Paddocks about £30 I think) made quite a big difference and didn't look out of place.
Click to expand...

That's whats on mine although I think they were £24 when I got them. Makes life a bit easier when the bulbs do go since not many places stock sealed beam units on the side of the road...
 
I might be a numpty but at least I can see where I'm going. Driving lamps (NOT fogs) fitted in the right place, correctly adjusted and wired were the best thing I've ever fitted to my landy. Standard sealed beam tungsten filament headlamps are, and always have been, useless!
 
In all seriousness, you do need well adjusted lights - you see too many cars with one dip beam pointed directly into the eyes of oncoming drivers and the other broken or pointing straight into the ground (or is it just where I live?)
I still reckon driving lights are appropriate. Back in the early seventies (when my s3 was born) they were one of the most popular accessories you could buy - and for good reason. Popping into Halfords near Christmas for bits for my push bike you couldn't move for piles of extra lights to give to your dad as a prezzie. If you want them to look more "period", the chrome ones probably look best.
 
It seems to have been solved, delving into the history of my S111, and while was fartarsing around on a bot o the body work, I found that the base colour of the car was old SA military brown, and the lights are not dimm at all, in fact they are quite bright, even on dim, so maybe the South African Military Spec, included upgraded lights? Will keep you posted.
 
It all depends on where you are. When I lived in Hampshire I seldom got the chance to go onto main beam because of other traffic, so correctly working and well adjusted sealed beams were adequate. Now I live in North Wales with more minor roads and less traffic, main beam is more useful, so better lights can help.
A common problem with Land Rovers that have been used off road can be that the wings have got bent, preventing another adjustment on the lamps. Presumably this is one reason why Land-Rover originally fitted them to the grille panel rather than the wings.
 
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