General faults on first Hippo

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Tom.JTC

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Essex
The missus bought a Hippo. :D

I am to say - very surprised at how much I like it. It's even got me second-guessing the 'Fender.

It's a 2001 TD4 commercial, seems to have been looked after well and runs really nicely. Got a few bits and pieces I've picked up on the last few days looking around it that I could do with some extra advice on. :)

1. Noticed a big knock/jerk when taking up drive into second gear if the change is not done super smoothly, also slightly present in 3rd I think. Immediately thought of rear-diff mounts and had a look today, centre mount seems to have given up being a mount. Main question is should I go for a standard replacement part or is it worth going for a polybush for more money? Landrover Freelander Rear Diff Centre Mount Bush in Polyurethane

2. Fob was dead when we got it, put new batteries in and seems to work fine but the drivers door does not respond to it. It tries, but won't lock (the lock tab on the inside shifts a tiny bit and a click is heard) and same for unlocking if manually locked. Have had the door to bits and got some oil into it and worked the mechanisms but had no joy, still just clicks. I'm probably going to buy another to swap it with and try and breathe some life into it so as to have a spare, but what I did come across was that the 3 torx bolts holding the lock in were extremely tight - actually bent the splines on the torx bit trying to undo them, and one is a bit weak where its been rounded slightly. Any tricks to get these undone or might it be a case of having to drill them out?

3. Rear window doesn't work. Button thinks its fully down, if you try to put it up the motor works but sounds like its got a lot of loose plastic floating around in it. Have worked out that the cable has snapped (as pointed to by the loose plastic part with a spring and cable sheath laying in the bottom of the door). My question on this one is how to remove it all? Haynes book of lies says lower glass down, undo regulators, remove glass - can't do this obviously and glass wont push down. Is the motor likely to be salvageable? It sounds awful. I thought it may be a case of cutting the remaining wire to allow regulators to drop, remove glass and strip everything out and rebuild it all with new bits.

4. Last thing I can think of is that the handbrake doesn't quite release fully - the lever springs back up a small amount, enough to keep the dash light lit unless you take the time to push and wiggle the lever so it finally stays off. Not so familiar with handbrake system on FL, what's the best thing to do for this?

Sorry for the long post :eek: I have taken a shine to this FL (I've driven it more then she has!) and want to get these little bits sorted. :)
 
Hi and good luck with your new soon-to-be family member

2. Fob was dead when we got it, put new batteries in and seems to work fine but the drivers door does not respond to it. It tries, but won't lock (the lock tab on the inside shifts a tiny bit and a click is heard) and same for unlocking if manually locked. Have had the door to bits and got some oil into it and worked the mechanisms but had no joy, still just clicks. I'm probably going to buy another to swap it with and try and breathe some life into it so as to have a spare, but what I did come across was that the 3 torx bolts holding the lock in were extremely tight - actually bent the splines on the torx bit trying to undo them, and one is a bit weak where its been rounded slightly. Any tricks to get these undone or might it be a case of having to drill them out?

Had this problem on mine-The mechanism consists of two motors (among other parts) one for locking, the other for unlocking. In my case the unlocking went bust. The sign that the tab moves a bit is a hint ta all circuitry is healthy just the motor is unable to move the mechanism.

Re the 3 torx screws, mine were the same this procedure worked:
1.Spray some wd40 or the like at the back of the head
2.Using a torx bit/screwdriver and a small hammer, tap gently but firmly so as to remove any dirt that might have clogged it through the years
3. Find a socket that fits the bit and use a ratchet(or the like) to get some torque (long bar effect)

4. Last thing I can think of is that the handbrake doesn't quite release fully - the lever springs back up a small amount, enough to keep the dash light lit unless you take the time to push and wiggle the lever so it finally stays off. Not so familiar with handbrake system on FL, what's the best thing to do for this?

Have you tried disassembling the centre cubby/armrest and see what is happening with the handbrake mechanism, if it is not being pulled back when you release, i think the springs inside the drum may have got a little tired of their work

As always-I stand to be corrected by the more-experienced guys around here

P.s. You may be already be mechanical minded from owning a 90 so do not get offended if the procedures sound childish
 
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hiya

i hope u dont also asking are these motors repairable at all please as ive got the same fault, will lock but not unlock, drivers door went first then drivers went,

makes perfect sense now as i thought it was only one motor

just didnt know if a motor could be bought an installed as it seems a new motor unit is around £80

thks again and hope u didnt mind me asking within this thread

gary
 
I sat in the drivers seat of a 'Fender at Stratters this morning while having an MOT done, didn't drive it but fook me it would take soe getting used to! I'm a broad shouldered bloke and I was shoved right up against the door card!

I'd still have one of course but the Hippo is a world apart in terms of comfort - if that's what you're after :).
 
hiya

i hope u dont also asking are these motors repairable at all please as ive got the same fault, will lock but not unlock, drivers door went first then drivers went,

makes perfect sense now as i thought it was only one motor

just didnt know if a motor could be bought an installed as it seems a new motor unit is around £80

thks again and hope u didnt mind me asking within this thread

gary

To my knowledge in electrics & electronics, all motors are repairable. The motor in the mechanism is a similar motor to those found in rc cars similar to the below link driving a worm (if i remember correctly)

Electric Motor 545 for RC Remote Control Cars, Boats Standard Size 5 Pole | eBay

whether you'll be able to take it out and leave the mechanism in a re-usable state is another story, i wasn't as it looks like its molded in. Might be worth a check though. you never know what you are able to do until you try.

Sorry OP
 
thks for that, know what u mean, but suppose ive got nothing to loose, seeing its going to cost around £160 for both door motor just thought on the off chance that maybe someone else has had a go in just taking the central locking apart.

appreciate your help and the link

gary
 
Do not buy that motor, the link is just for illustration. My apologies if i misled you. Both door motors you mean off and near sides?
 
Do not buy that motor, the link is just for illustration. My apologies if i misled you. Both door motors you mean off and near sides?

hiya, yep no probs i assumed it was for illistration purposes and was demostarting the sort of motor

yes for the passenger and drivers side, they lock but wont unlock, one went then a couple of months later the other one, prior to that worked perfectly, has been too cold to go and sit out there so have been waiting dor the warmer weather

dont really wish to get one from the breakers etc as prefer to fit new parts as i belive there abit of a pig to do

will be nice to get one open then see exactly what type of motor is inside and if ur able to indeed buy one seperatly

thks again

gary
 
Most door motors are 380 sized motors or smaller, that's a pure guess though.
Something like this but rated at 12volts
Mabuchi Electric Motor for RC/Tools/Car/Etc. RS-380SH | eBay
Or these again rated at 12volts

Miniature Small Electric Motor Brushed 1.5V - 12V DC for Models Crafts Robots | eBay

Doesn't the Freelander use the same locking motors as the Rover 75? I'm sure i'v read something to that effect.

thks

to be honest im not sure, will check it out thks,

just feel ive got nothing to loose, the local breaker is out of locks as i was going to pop down there and then see if they had a broken one that i could have opened up and looked inside

been trying to find some internal pics of the central locking assembley

thks again


gary
 
thks

to be honest im not sure, will check it out thks,

just feel ive got nothing to loose, the local breaker is out of locks as i was going to pop down there and then see if they had a broken one that i could have opened up and looked inside

been trying to find some internal pics of the central locking assembley

thks again


gary

There are plenty of pictures on ebay. The Freelander's lock looks similar to the 75 lock but i'm not convinced it's the same tbh. The Freelander lock on ebay is under £75 new with the shipping.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FREELANDE...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5894d9d27b
It's probably easier to just change it anyway.
 
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hiya

thks for the link, ur proberly right as with all the internal working etc, just being tight, lolol or should i say careful, lol

the adventure company looks good to, never heard of them , also will stay away from britparts as heard alot of horror stories with them but see they do plenty of other brands

thks so much again

gary
 
Thanks for the advice guys - has anyone got any ideas on the tailgate window problem? Glass up, button thinks its down, cable has snapped and wound half of itself into the motor while the other half looks to be jamming up the regulators and is holding the window up. What's the best way to get the window down to remove everything with it like this? And is the motor likely to be ruined? Sure sounds like it's got a load of loose parts inside it when operated.

Was sitting in some traffic yesterday and suddenly the steering felt a bit odd. I don't know if it was my imagination or not...:rolleyes: O/S balljoint from the rack has some play so will be replacing that and hopefully that is the cause, it was on the MoT advisory it had slight play bit didn't notice it all the way home from picking it up, maybe it just got a little worse. :confused:
 
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