P38A Gearbox cooler pipes (manual)

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Grrrrrr

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Full Member
Posts
19,312
Location
Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Anyone got any idea what size and threads the fittings are on the transmission oil cooler pipes are on the manual box?

The bodgit I did last year with Quiksteel has failed and the underneath is mucky. MoT test soon and I need to fix it. Not only is finding the replacement parts tricky it is darn expensive and I cannot help but think a more generic solution might be cheaper.

iirc, the pipes go through the bottom of the radiator via a couple of brass fittings. Might be ally on the Nissens rad.
 
It is the fittings on the end of the rubber hose parts that have let go. I'm guessing 29 years of the rubber vibrating on the fittings has just worn it enough to weep.

I am thinking there isn't any pressure there as such. If I can cut off the metal fitting and just get a fitting that I can push the hose over and clamp with a Jubilee clip then it should be fine. But obviously it needs the right thread to mate up to any other fittings.

Might as well do the oil ones too. The prices for replacement pipes are insane (hundreds).
 
Mark Piercy said:

ESR2697 | OIL COOLER PIPE - PETROL P38 RANGE ROVER | Britpart | | Britcar (Global) Ltd

Looking for ESR2697 OIL COOLER PIPE - PETROL P38 RANGE ROVER? Britcar can help you. View all details of this part here
britcar.com britcar.com
Is this any good grrrrrr?
Not too sure if they are for yours but they may have the correct pipes🤔
Click to expand...

From memory I need ESR2898 and ESR2900 but I might have the codes wrong. Only the rubber part is likely to fail though so a way to replace those at will seems like the sensible way forward. That way we're talking tens of pounds rather than hundreds, especially if the end fixings can be reused. I realise the originals are nearly 30 years old which is good but I doubt replacements will last that long and I most likely won't either.
 
Grrrrrr said:
From memory I need ESR2898 and ESR2900 but I might have the codes wrong. Only the rubber part is likely to fail though so a way to replace those at will seems like the sensible way forward. That way we're talking tens of pounds rather than hundreds, especially if the end fixings can be reused. I realise the originals are nearly 30 years old which is good but I doubt replacements will last that long and I most likely won't either.
Click to expand...
Can you not reuse the metal end fittings? After the rubber pipe is removed, it's usually possible to fit s new length of hose using, as you suggested, Jubilee clips to secure it. The oil cooler terminations in my Nissens RAD are brass.
 
Datatek said:
Can you not reuse the metal end fittings? After the rubber pipe is removed, it's usually possible to fit s new length of hose using, as you suggested, Jubilee clips to secure it. The oil cooler terminations in my Nissens RAD are brass.
Click to expand...

I think I am overthinking this. I went out and had a look earlier and I reckon I can just cut the old fittings off and put a replacement rubber pipe over the existing metal ones with a couple of Jubilee clips.

When I looked both the oil and transmission cooler pipes have a mist of oil. The oil ones are 16 mm outer diameter and the transmission ones are 1/2" (13 mm) so I just neee to source some hose with that as the inner diameter.

Some piccies
 

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I'd be looking further up towards the oil filter housing possibly leaking via the orings the pipes connect to as well 🤔
It could be dripping down onto the pipes and has made its way to the pipe/rad end😜
 
pwood999 said:
Have you tried cleaning everything with brake cleaner & then see exactly where it's coming from ?
Click to expand...

Yes, did that last year.

Went to the motor spares shop this afternoon but came back empty handed. They only have fuel pipe and it only goes up to 12 mm.

Went to a hydraulic hose place but the max temp for any of their hoses is 100C which is a bit too close to the engine operating temperature for my liking. In the end we decided flouro-silicone tubing would probably have the required temperature stability and resistance to both engine oil and MTF94 and it comes in both 13 mm and 16 mm sizes but he didn't have any and didn't know the price so he's going to fibd out for me. I only need a metre of each. The transmission pipe only needs about 12" each side and the oil pipes maybe 15" each side.
 
It’s an old one so corrupt a bit

www.landyzone.co.uk

2.5 Diesel oil cooler pipes - an economical way!

I've read in threads on here horror stories of stripping the oil cooler threads trying to get the oil cooler pipes off and didn't fancy trying to get them off. I also didn't fancy buying hoses with a new cooler and taking the old one out. Mine have wept a little ever since I got the car. I took...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Is this auto though so different?
 
RangeRoller dt said:
It’s an old one so corrupt a bit

www.landyzone.co.uk

2.5 Diesel oil cooler pipes - an economical way!

I've read in threads on here horror stories of stripping the oil cooler threads trying to get the oil cooler pipes off and didn't fancy trying to get them off. I also didn't fancy buying hoses with a new cooler and taking the old one out. Mine have wept a little ever since I got the car. I took...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Is this auto though so different?
Click to expand...

The sensible thing to do would be to get the pipes off but obviously, for the same reasons he did, I don't really want to risk that headache.

What surprises me is he says the [presumably steel] pipe is smooth. I would have expected some sort of ridge or barb for the rubber pipe to fit over.
 
RangeRoller dt said:
It’s an old one so corrupt a bit

www.landyzone.co.uk

2.5 Diesel oil cooler pipes - an economical way!

I've read in threads on here horror stories of stripping the oil cooler threads trying to get the oil cooler pipes off and didn't fancy trying to get them off. I also didn't fancy buying hoses with a new cooler and taking the old one out. Mine have wept a little ever since I got the car. I took...
www.landyzone.co.uk www.landyzone.co.uk
Is this auto though so different?
Click to expand...

I'd imagine the methodology is the same between auto and manual, just the hose run that is different.
 
The elegant solution here would be an adapter with a compression fitting one side that fits over the remains of the steel pipe and a hose barb the other that would take the rubber hose and hold it tight. Trouble is, 16 mm is an odd size when all plumbing stuff is 15 mm. Most of the oil compression fittings when I search are 10 mm.
 
Grrrrrr said:
The elegant solution here would be an adapter with a compression fitting one side that fits over the remains of the steel pipe and a hose barb the other that would take the rubber hose and hold it tight. Trouble is, 16 mm is an odd size when all plumbing stuff is 15 mm. Most of the oil compression fittings when I search are 10 mm.
Click to expand...
16mm is a standard plumbing size in France as is 12, 14, & 18mm :rolleyes: When the change was made from imperial sizes to metric, I never understood why 15mm was chosen, 14mm is nearer half inch.
 
Datatek said:
16mm is a standard plumbing size in France as is 12, 14, & 18mm :rolleyes: When the change was made from imperial sizes to metric, I never understood why 15mm was chosen, 14mm is nearer half inch.
Click to expand...

You and everyone else. Living in an old house where everything is 1/2" or 3/4" piping I can confirm that 15 mm and 22 mm are just different enough to leak like **** without a special o-ring.
 
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