Freelander TD4 Will not start at times.

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spikelee

New Member
Posts
7
Location
Cambridgeshire
Hi Chaps and Chapeses! I have had a frustrating weekend with my 2001 TD4 Freelander. she has been an excellent family car without faults until last weekend. The car will not always start. Or, will start drive fine and then after parking will then not start. I have read all the threads which have eliminated most common faults. All pumps run and prime. No faults show on the dash. A local garage read the fault log and it shows low fuel pressure code. With experience, the mechanic hit the pump (HP?) and filter area under the bonnet (RHS) with a rubber hammer and bingo, she started. Had a day without issues. Overnight she was left and next day would not start:), just wind and wind. So i hit the pump/filter area again and bingo. i am going to investigate more today. i feel its a electro/mechanical issue or duff sensor electrical connection. Any experience or advice very welcome. Does anyone know if you can service the HP pump. What can i safely do in this area. The high pressure 6500psi fuel rails worry me, that could cut through steel! All help gratefully received . Spike:D
 
Thanks Gentlemen. How do i make contact with Bob, i assume he is a revered member of the forum . Why ignition thoughts though? It only starts after thumping the HP fuel pump/filter area? Does this form a feedback part to the engine/ecu management? Thanks very much for you help so far. Fixing my daughters 1984 Mini Mafair at the moment. Waterpump duff. Freelander next to examine! cheers Spike
 
Hi Chaps and Chapeses! I have had a frustrating weekend with my 2001 TD4 Freelander. she has been an excellent family car without faults until last weekend. The car will not always start. Or, will start drive fine and then after parking will then not start. I have read all the threads which have eliminated most common faults. All pumps run and prime. No faults show on the dash. A local garage read the fault log and it shows low fuel pressure code. With experience, the mechanic hit the pump (HP?) and filter area under the bonnet (RHS) with a rubber hammer and bingo, she started. Had a day without issues. Overnight she was left and next day would not start:), just wind and wind. So i hit the pump/filter area again and bingo. i am going to investigate more today. i feel its a electro/mechanical issue or duff sensor electrical connection. Any experience or advice very welcome. Does anyone know if you can service the HP pump. What can i safely do in this area. The high pressure 6500psi fuel rails worry me, that could cut through steel! All help gratefully received . Spike:D

Where exactly are you hitting under the bonnet?
 
injector fault causing leak back ?

would a) give low pressure fault and b) prevent starting

(doesn't explain how hitting it cures it though, unless it jolts the injector closed again)
 
injector fault causing leak back ?

would a) give low pressure fault and b) prevent starting

(doesn't explain how hitting it cures it though, unless it jolts the injector closed again)

I'm wondering if it's a either a faulty fuel regulator or corroded connection on the sensor on the injector rail but want to know exactly what he's hitting before chasing up the garden path.
 
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Ok, well would you believe it. she just started 3 times in a row from cold/overnight parking. i am gently tapping the pump housing (RHS Engine bay, beside inner wheel arch)to make her start from fault state. i have her in the garage, just about to check all electrical connections. i assume the fuel rail is what feeds the injectors? I'll clean and re seat all sensors and electrical components. Having noted the typical volts used to declare various states of play within the fuel supply 0.5v - 3v it would not take much of a corroded connector to distort these low dc voltage levels. I'll let you know what i find. What is your advice next. thanks again to you all Spike
 
Update to my TD4 not starting at random times. I had the engine cover off and checked for any leaks. All electrical connections were reseated, all in perfect condition, also inspected the wiring harness for wear and tear, all seemed fine. Paid attention to the two electrical connections around the filter/pump location (Engine bay RHS, Front wheel arch area). Was not sure how the round Silver/White plug was to be removed form the pump, so just wiggled it to re seat. Had a days use with no problems. This morning would not start. I turned the ignition on to position two. Listened in the fuel tank filler and could hear a electrical pump noise. when to the engine bay, could hear nothing, no priming of the HP side. Got my rubber mallet and very very gently taped the fuel filter, straight away the pump fired up and i could hear the fuel line system priming with fuel. Turn the key and she fired straight away. I want to remove the fuel filter/ pump combination so i can have a play on a bench. How do i go about this? WHAT precautions do i need to take? Is this not advisable? Is it time to take my TD4 to LR (I really dread LR touching the car, they never convince me they understand the faults, all they do is follow fault codes, which i know are not accurate and lead to lots of expensive replacement parts) Can i replace the pump easily myself or does it require specialist knowledge and tools?
Thanks for your continued support, at this time i have my trusty rubber mallet in the foot well! TA :0)
 
how did you get on with the car? I have a very similar fault, car starts and runs fine then wont. I haven't tried the mallet thing but might give it a go. At the moment I am just giving it 10 minutes to chill out and trying it again and 9 out of 10 she starts and Im happy.

I have also noticed a fan running under the bonnet for a good 30 seconds or so even after I have just started it to turn her in the drive. Got a big puff of smoke from under the bonnet that day so I rushed to check it out and couldn't see where it came from.

I now wonder if I have the same fault as yourself or some other issue??
 
An old thread I know, not sure if this is posted elsewhere in the forum.

The issue I had turned out to be a faulty cam shaft sensor. Replaced and all was good there after.

My understanding of it is that the faulty sensor makes the ECU think that there is excessive wear in the timing chain so doesn't allow ignition.

Hope this helps some one else at some point.
 
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