Freelander TD4 2005

Picked up my old sump Guard today, got it cleaned up.

Here's how it was when picked up. Nice and solid still.



Inside, I have drilled the rivets out now and removed all the plastic. Also made to new alloy brackets to fit.



Painted in truck bed liner paint. Still drying, so looks a bit patchy.

JC600 said:

Picked up my old sump Guard today, got it cleaned up.

Here's how it was when picked up. Nice and solid still.

Inside, I have drilled the rivets out now and removed all the plastic. Also made to new alloy brackets to fit.

Painted in truck bed liner paint. Still drying, so looks a bit patchy.

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That looks good, is it chequer plate cut to shape to replace the plastic? I like the pragmatic methodology. I was looking into a metal plate myself, never thought about doing this. Is there any more about the build of it on any threads do you know?

Might find it handy while its off to cut a hole for sump plug access, did it when i had one, saves a lot of work for simple oil change

Philgt50 said:

That looks good, is it chequer plate cut to shape to replace the plastic? I like the pragmatic methodology. I was looking into a metal plate myself, never thought about doing this. Is there any more about the build of it on any threads do you know?

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Cheers, there will be a thread somewhere. But I'm sure the forum I was on at the time has closed down. But I'll see if I can find a link. Yeah, just alloy Chequer plate.

Tony e said:

Might find it handy while its off to cut a hole for sump plug access, did it when i had one, saves a lot of work for simple oil change

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Someone's done that on my plastic one, and made a right mess of it. I'll just copper slip all the bolts and screws, doesn't take long to remove.

JC600 said:

Cheers, there will be a thread somewhere. But I'm sure the forum I was on at the time has closed down. But I'll see if I can find a link. Yeah, just alloy Chequer plate.



Someone's done that on my plastic one, I made a tight mess of it. I'll just copper slip all the bolts and screws, doesn't take long to remove.

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I did mine because of the weight of it tryin to lift and locate bolts at same time, i imagine yours is even heavier

Philgt50 said:

That looks good, is it chequer plate cut to shape to replace the plastic? I like the pragmatic methodology. I was looking into a metal plate myself, never thought about doing this. Is there any more about the build of it on any threads do you know?

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Here you go. Some pics on page 3 & 4.

http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=66075&start=20

I just didn't mine as long. Didn't see the point.

Tony e said:

I did mine because of the weight of it tryin to lift and locate bolts at same time, i imagine yours is even heavier

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Quite light really......im used to removing belly plates on heavy plant, so doesn't bother me too much.

JC600 said:

Here you go. Some pics on page 3 & 4.

http://forum.lro.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=66075&start=20

I just didn't mine as long. Didn't see the point.



Quite light really......im used to removing belly plates on heavy plant, so doesn't bother me too much.

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Bothered me on mi back in the rain

Fitted parcel shelf sorry rigid load space cover. Bought 2 wardrobe rail brackets from B and Q for £2.80. Positioned, drilled out the 2 holes in each and corresponding location on rear side plastic load space trim, riveted the brackets in place then slotted parcel shelf into brackets with a plastic bush over the parcel shelf end rods. The brackets have a right angle bend threaded so I have run a bolt with a plastic knob on up to the bushes to hold them in place but can be easily undone to release parcel shelf if necessary. I will put a picture on as a lot easier to see, Brackets under the shelf so not too conspicuous either. Took 30 mins tops happy days. Better than £20 + quid for crappie plastic I think.

Tony e said:

Might find it handy while its off to cut a hole for sump plug access, did it when i had one, saves a lot of work for simple oil change

Click to expand...

I made one similar but welded nuts to angle iron, then bolted them to the side arms. Now I only need to undo four bolts to get the new guard off.

Alibro said:

I made one similar but welded nuts to angle iron, then bolted them to the side arms. Now I only need to undo four bolts to get the new guard off.

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I'm still thinking of making another one but slightly longer at the back, so it bolts onto the cross frame. And fitting rivnuts to the frame, so the plate just needs removing for oil changes etc.

Sump Guard all fitted, original guard had been hacked to bits, all screws needed drilling off, all bolts seized and both rear support brackets missing. Fitted all new screws with new speed clips, copper greased when fitted. All bolts cleaned up and greased and new support brackets made.

Old guard



New brackets



All fitted

JC600 said:

Sump Guard all fitted, original guard had been hacked to bits, all screws needed drilling off, all bolts seized and both rear support brackets missing. Fitted all new screws with new speed clips, copper greased when fitted. All bolts cleaned up and greased and new support brackets made.

Old guard

New brackets

All fitted

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Very nice. Wouldn't hold up to full blown rallying but for most off roading should be well strong enough.

Like the sump guard. There's only one thing I don't like about using chequer plate. It is designed as an anti-slip surface for steps and flooring. Now if you run aground. You want to be able slide along on the sump guard, using whatever traction the tyres can find. Chequer plate resists the sliding action by design. Otherwise it's spot on.

Alibro said:

Very nice. Wouldn't hold up to full blown rallying but for most off roading should be well strong enough.

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It's took some hits, I hit a big rock not long after a made it. And it's been on 3 other Freelanders since then, all of which regularly went green laning or off road centers. So it'll be fine for me.

Nodge68 said:

Like the sump guard. There's only one thing I don't like about using chequer plate. It is designed as an anti-slip surface for steps and flooring. Now if you run aground. You want to be able slide along on the sump guard, using whatever traction the tyres can find. Chequer plate resists the sliding action by design. Otherwise it's spot on.

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At the time, 6 yrs ago. I was given it for free, I cut it to shape. And a lad bent it for me, but the wrong way (as I wanted smooth side down). So just left it. Never had any problems with it. And I'll only be doing light lanes. As a lot are closed now.

Looks bleddy good.

Dartmoor Navigator said:

Looks bleddy good.

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Cheers mate.

Alibro said:

I made one similar but welded nuts to angle iron

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An excellent reminder to take care when welding and to wear the correct protective clothing

Yes I am loving the sump guard and have a spare original one to convert now. So what is the consensus on which sheet metal to use to be reasonably robust however also workable using the original alloy frame?

Philgt50 said:

Yes I am loving the sump guard and have a spare original one to convert now. So what is the consensus on which sheet metal to use to be reasonably robust however also workable using the original alloy frame?

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In my case it was whatever I had lying around that I could make do with. Like I said earlier unless you're doing full blown rallying the checker plate would be fine.

JC600 said:

Cheers, there will be a thread somewhere. But I'm sure the forum I was on at the time has closed down. But I'll see if I can find a link. Yeah, just alloy Chequer plate.



Someone's done that on my plastic one, and made a right mess of it. I'll just copper slip all the bolts and screws, doesn't take long to remove.

Click to expand...

Alibro said:

In my case it was whatever I had lying around that I could make do with. Like I said earlier unless you're doing full blown rallying the checker plate would be fine.

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I will see what I can find then. I am sure I have seen sheet metal somewhere recently. No rallying unless it's accidental! Regarding oil change I am sure this will be on another thread but with the original plastic sump guard on, to change the engine oil I undo the 2 rear undertray bolts, push a short length of 4 inch flat profile roof gutter up to sump plug and drain it into a suitable container. Front end jacked up a bit, yes on stands, sump plug loosened with extension, happy days. Not had an oil slick yet. Suppose I will have to do it properly with metal sump guard on haha