Freelander 1 fuel tank support.

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Old diver

Well-Known Member
Posts
432
Location
Dunfermline, Fife
Just changed handbrake cables and while I was underneath I noticed a total lack of fuel tank support, it's gone! Had an MOT last May and it passed, I can only assume the guy missed it because it wasn't there. I have looked at the available brackets and it is a bit beyond me to change it while car is on axle stands. I have a couple of questions :- 1). Can you make and use a homemade one? 2). Can the brackets that are available be cut in half, then be bolted together later? Any ideas appreciated.
 
Old diver said:
Thanks for reply. I can get a new one for £69, but it's a big job to fit.
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I've not had to replace the cradle but can you not slide it into place and hold it up with a jack while its bolted onto the car?
Madmustang said:
Yep many jobs on the Freelander are ;)
Click to expand...
I recon its a relatively easy car to work on - probably made worse by all the bolts and screws being rusted out in the UK by now.

I definitely think its the easiest LR to work on, simply because everything is so much lighter.
 
You have to support the tank, drop the drive shaft, break the back exhaust section and lower the sub frame. It's a nightmare. I think I will look at making my own.
 
For an MoT pass the fuel tank must be securely supported so two home-made metal straps will do the job. Use thick rubber sheeting cut a bit wider than the straps to put between the straps and the tank to prevent the straps chafing the tank as it's made of plastic.

There must be something of the original cradle left to support the tank otherwise it would be lying on the propshaft. That wouldn't be good.
 
Honestly, it is next to nothing. Don't need anything between the straps and tank as there is white plastic bucket type things covering the bottom of the tank. I have seen things corrode like that during my diving career, it's sacrificial, all the corrosion is directed at the weaker metal. The rest of the bottom is in good nick. You can get small zinc anodes for outboard engines, so I will fit a couple of them to the straps / new bracket. Only cost a couple of quid each. I can fit two straps fore and aft onto original bolts, but can't fit cross members because of drive shaft and exhaust pipe which the tank straddles.
 
Old diver said:
Honestly, it is next to nothing. Don't need anything between the straps and tank as there is white plastic bucket type things covering the bottom of the tank. I have seen things corrode like that during my diving career, it's sacrificial, all the corrosion is directed at the weaker metal. The rest of the bottom is in good nick. You can get small zinc anodes for outboard engines, so I will fit a couple of them to the straps / new bracket. Only cost a couple of quid each. I can fit two straps fore and aft onto original bolts, but can't fit cross members because of drive shaft and exhaust pipe which the tank straddles.
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I did mine last year. Disconnect rear prop and tie out of the way. Unhang exhaust and remove back box. Thread a lorry strap under the tank and over the top of car to support tank. Remove the rear subframe bolts one at a time and thread them back in a few turns so you have clearance but subframe doesn’t drop off. Remove cradle bolts and cut it up to save time removing it.

Curse, hammer and pry the new subframe into position.

Your best compromise would be to buy the £70 job mentioned above and cut it in half lengthways, then fit easily and weld it back up once in position.
 
guineafowl21 said:
I did mine last year. Disconnect rear prop and tie out of the way. Unhang exhaust and remove back box. Thread a lorry strap under the tank and over the top of car to support tank. Remove the rear subframe bolts one at a time and thread them back in a few turns so you have clearance but subframe doesn’t drop off. Remove cradle bolts and cut it up to save time removing it.

Curse, hammer and pry the new subframe into position.

Your best compromise would be to buy the £70 job mentioned above and cut it in half lengthways, then fit easily and weld it back up once in position.
Click to expand...
I think I will go the cutting in half route and plate and bolt together, I think the other route will open a can of worms.
 
it is really not that hard I supported mine with two 1 1/2 inch straps going through the back doors on a 5 door and ok dropped the back sub frame but not all the way I dropped the back part of the prop I just took the rear rubber hanger of the exhaust and before I put a second hand one on I give it a good painting a few days earlier with hammer right .
 
When I put my VCU and prop back I Waxoyled the underside of the car. When I got to the cradle I was amazed at how much corrosion was present. Fortunately the structural stuff was okay but much of the metal plate on the driver's side was gone. Hopefully it'll last a bit longer now after a wire brush and a bit of paint
 
When the plate under the tank rusted out on mine, the rod was still fine and supporting the tank on its plastic 'load spreader'. I decided (rightly or wrongly) that the biggest risk was not the tank falling out, but of sommat puncturing the tank due to the lack of plate. I made some checker-plate 'covers' and fixed them to the rods to provide 'skids' (about 3mm thick). This was after painting what was left to preserve it. It has the added advantage of worrying Mr MOT and, as stated above, the tin plate is, I think, superficial for support purposes. Will try to find a picture or 5.
 
Not worrying Mr MOT was intended above ! As he can't see it !
Picture 1 of temp mounted prior to painting to check fit. Bolts went into electrical earth terminals wrapped around tube. See pic 2.
DSC_0175.JPG
DSC_0173.JPG
 
Distract him from all the other faults whilst putting on plasters :)
This was only a mock up fit before finishing the job properly(ish) !
 
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