FL1 Facelift Aftermarket Driving Lights

Happy Christmas all. Hope you're enjoying a problem free period of festive motoring.

Anyway, over the break I'm embarking on a few jobs on the FL here and there. Brake pads, oil change, rear window regulators and speakers to name a few. I am also going to be fitting some lovely new 8" driving lights.

So here is my question on fitting the driving lights...

I'm very comfortable putting in a switch, fitting a relay, and taking the required feeds from the main beam lights and battery etc, BUT, I was wondering if there are any short cuts that can be utilised given that podded driving lights with loom parts and a dash switch were available from LR? Can I reduce the amount of cable running and splicing by making use of part of the loom that will exist on the vehicle already?

I have the pod type driving lights on mine, as far as I can tell the loom doesn't use any of the cars existing wires, other than where they are spliced by the internal fuse box.
Mine has the relay in the engine bay, just in front of the battery, it takes a feed directly from the positive battery connector (goes through an inline fuse) and earths to the bodywork around there. The cables for the feeds and internal switch then run around the engine bay and in behind the dash somewhere and all exit by the internal fusebox. All the cables are wrapped in tape or something similar until under the dash where two are then loose for a foot or so, these need to be spliced into the main beam feed and side light feed, the rest end in the plug for the switch. I can take some pics if it would be useful.

Wiring driving lights without using the LR kit is very easy. You can make all the connections under the bonnet. You'll need a relay, a fuse holder, connectors and a few lengths of suitably heavy gauge wire.

Nodge68 said:

Wiring driving lights without using the LR kit is very easy. You can make all the connections under the bonnet. You'll need a relay, a fuse holder, connectors and a few lengths of suitably heavy gauge wire.

Click to expand...

Oh yeah, I'm quite happy doing it @Nodge68 . I've done a few over the years but was just wondering if there were any shortcuts to save running lengths of wire, say, to a switch in the cabin for example. I'm all geared up if not though.

I wired my LED bar up all under the bonnet without running wires into the cabin. It's not easy getting the wires through the bulkhead anyway, although I've since run the wires from my FBH controller with external temperature sensor.

My LED bar has is fed by a relay that is taking a fused live straight off the battery. The relay coil is spliced into the main beam circuit. The other side of the relay coil is grounded to the body, along with the ground for the LED bar. That's all ther is too it. It took me about 30 minutes to wire up the LED bar.

You'll find mounting the lights will take longer than the wiring them up.

Nodge68 said:

I wired my LED bar up all under the bonnet without running wires into the cabin. It's not easy getting the wires through the bulkhead anyway, although I've since run the wires from my FBH controller with external temperature sensor.

My LED bar has is fed by a relay that is taking a fused live straight off the battery. The relay coil is spliced into the main beam circuit. The other side of the relay coil is grounded to the body, along with the ground for the LED bar. That's all ther is too it. It took me about 30 minutes to wire up the LED bar.

You'll find mounting the lights will take longer than the wiring them up.

Click to expand...

I don't doubt that, and I may go for that set up. However, I like the idea of a switch in the cabin between the vehicle main beam circuit and the relay so that when I feel like it they don't switch on with the main beam headlights.