First time Disco owner, need help

Hi - Ive just brought a 2001 Disco 2 TD5 ES in Black as we want to tow a caravan.

Its the 7 seat version.

Ive noticed some chassis rust and took some photos, im totally new to this so sincerely apologise if this has come up before.

There are a few other things that need sorting also.

The rear step stays down (needs new strut i believe) and the car seems to wander a little on the motoway and also makes a runbling noise above 40 mph but only when turning left !

Im in Harwich in Essex and looking to get some help as i know nothing about welding the chassis or repairing but am happy to 'get my hands dirty' just need some guidance.

see attached photos and look forward to hear from anybody

Hello again.

That looks like surface rust from the pictures.

Get a small hammer and tap the areas firmly. Any holes will become apparent.

If the metal sounds solid all over then for now you could treat it with a rust treatment available from halfords, like CureRust, then paint over it in either Black Hammerite or underseal.

Should last a few more years then as long as its checked regularly.

Bloody hell my 1996 300tdi looks better than that, as Brian said just clean the surface & treat.

thanks guys I will do that, if it turns out to be something more than surface rust, where do I turn? do you guys offer welding ?

should i go at it with a wire brush also?

what about the rumbling noise when turning left? Wheel Bearing do you think?

thanks for your comments so far

Try pressbrake if you need any welding, his down on canvey island.
Could be power steering but I'm sure someone will be along soon to have a veiw on it.

you might want to look at rhs front wheel bearing, rust on chassis is common on disco 2 luckily bodies are good , whole chassis needs protecting preferably with paint then waxoyl or similar

jamesmartin said:

you might want to look at rhs front wheel bearing, rust on chassis is common on disco 2 luckily bodies are good , whole chassis needs protecting preferably with paint then waxoyl or similar

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+1 on the wheel bearing,check each bearing in turn for play and roughness when spun,if you don't do it quick you will soon see the "three amigo's" on the dash which will require diagnostic to switch off

thanks you guys are helpful.........is a wheel bearing easy to do ? (im an amateur)

or anyone in essex recommend anywhere / anyone for beer tokens?

Black TD5 ES said:

thanks you guys are helpful.........is a wheel bearing easy to do ? (im an amateur)

or anyone in essex recommend anywhere / anyone for beer tokens?

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They are quite easy to change although expensive as they are a complete hub with ABS sensor included,only real issue is if driveshaft is stuck in bearing as a puller may be needed to release it.

666 george said:

Bloody hell my 1996 300tdi looks better than that, as Brian said just clean the surface & treat.

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my 1987 90 looks better than that to be honest, and it looks about the same as my 1993 disco

I see that some above are saying that that is all surface rust, but it's pretty widespread by the look of it. Hard to tell from only pictures, but some of it looks like a bit of an old rusty hulk sticking out of the sand on some beach. Shouldn't be surprised if there isn't some holes here and there when you start poking around.

Other than that, advice as above.

Mine was like that when I got it, I just removed the fuel tank, sanded all the surface rust off with Dynafile, back to nice shiny metal, etch primered it then Hammerite then waxoyl, no worries now, be sure to check your brake lines though as they rot like hell where the chassis rises at the rear. If changing them use Cunnifer brake line (copper/nickel) better than copper ****

whats wrong with copper ?

Its ****, it work hardens with vibration, seen it happen. Also the yanks dont allow it on their cars.(which shows a reason) Copper is no cheaper than cunnifer anyway

ive seen it /used it too its fine ive never seen a problem with using it ,even on old repairs

I would only use copper for short runs but definately not on long runs such as front to back.

anyone like to offer some help on wheel bearing replacement? im a noob to mechanics, happy to get my hands dirty, but dont know what im doing? Beer Tokens anyone?

you have to buy a hub assembly as reluctor ring for abs etc is part of bearing ,so bearings cant be bought seperately ,remove caliper and disc ,then unclip old sensor from inner wing ,hub just unbolts its worth discarding brake mud sheild as they dont help brake disc

Planny said:

I would only use copper for short runs but definately not on long runs such as front to back.

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its fine for those too ,pipe is well supported front to back ,in 30 years ive never seen an issue and ive seen some pretty old replacements ,your only hassel will be trying to undo fitting without twisting pipe off

Is this what i need?

Land Rover Discovery 2 Front Wheel Hub Assembly | eBay