Fecking terminal block bodges!

I thought my 90 wiring was botched..... But just bought an Evo 6 and it has expensive SPA gauges bodged in with scotch locks, it took me two hours last night to re wire it properly.

When i got my series 3 - had lots of problems with lighting and indicators. previous owner had used scotch block and 3 core mains lead on all the lights FFS!
Took me a couple of weekends to sort out!
Scotch block is for temporary - i'll say that again - TEMPORARY fixes! - and certainly NOT where there is the likely hood of moisture of any kind!!:boxing:

I use good quality red/blue/yellow crimps and heat shrink sleeving. I was told many years ago not to solder joints on cars, solder joints don't like vibration, the point at which the solder makes the wire rigid is a weak point. I've never had a problem with a properly made crimped terminal, having the correct size crimp for the wire and using a proper crimping tool does make a difference, you can't do make a good crimp with a cheap £3 tool.

Ordered a new connector so once it arrives I'll sort that bodge out and move onto the next, headlight has a terminal block stashed near the alarm horn?......God knows why but I'm sure i'll find out why!

Apprentice at work says "Scotch locks are the best invention ever." I knew he was full of **** but didn't realise just how special a case he is!

I spent 2 years in me youth working a factory in PeterBorough making car wiring harnesses for Fords, rover & Honda. they didn't have any problem with soldered joints. NOr do landrover plenty of wires spliced into loom and soldered on a standard wiring harness. Whoever has said wires shouldn't be soldered is talking crap..

redhand said:

I spent 2 years in me youth working a factory in PeterBorough making car wiring harnesses for Fords, rover & Honda. they didn't have any problem with soldered joints. NOr do landrover plenty of wires spliced into loom and soldered on a standard wiring harness. Whoever has said wires shouldn't be soldered is talking crap..

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The looms I've taken apart where there are splices are not just wires twisted togeter and soldered but have a brass connector in there.

There is a story from the early 1960's about MacLaren and Brabham when the both drove for Cooper.
Both were building theor F2 cars at the factory. Bruce bared the ingnition wires and twisted them together, taped them, then taped the lot to the chassis tube.
Jack sain it was wrong. Use a proper connector. He did. Bruce wone. Jack didn't finish because the connector came apart...

mike

I had the exact same problem - all the wires behind the dash console had been joined with terminal strip, some had been twisted together and left bare.

I use a ratchet crimper and red / blue / yellow crimps. Would not even consider the sort of crimp tool you get from most DIY places as the crimping area of the jaws is very thin and would not provide a decent reliable joint.

As for battery terminals or anything above 4mm sqr. I am lucky to have a decent set of crimpers that can go a little larger!

ratchet crimpers are the way to go, theyr'e not even that expensive, especially if yer a landy owner and gonna be using them a bit

Ive got a couple of sets of ratchets, one for the R/B/Y crimps, a bigger set thatll do up to 15mm (I think) certainly big enough for battery leads. the third set is for RG58/59 and that sorta stuff.

I have ratchet crimps but I usually default to soldering where possible. Only use crimps where I might disconnect something or needs spade terminals etc