Engine swap

Well I'm swapping out engines so wish me luck and pray that this used engine is worth a crap. It supposevely has 80k on it but it doesn't look that good to me.

question: I was hoping to be able to pull the engine forward enough to get it out of the trans and pull it out but after looking at the engine with the torque converter on it it looks like I need to drop the trans. Will I need to drop the transmission when I do this?
Thanks,
Paul

Most people unbolt the torque converter from the drive plate and leave it in the autobox when they do an engine swop.Makes refitting easier too,better to unbolt the converter and fit it to the box first then you can ensure its properly engaged in the oil pump drive tangs - if you dont you will wreck the box very quickly.

eightinavee said:

Most people unbolt the torque converter from the drive plate and leave it in the autobox when they do an engine swop.Makes refitting easier too,better to unbolt the converter and fit it to the box first then you can ensure its properly engaged in the oil pump drive tangs - if you dont you will wreck the box very quickly.

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OK I think I am following you. I should fit the TC to the trans before putting the engine in? If you have a link on this that would be great. LR are kind of new to me so any info like this I appreciate very much. Thanks

hi paul you can unbolt the tourque convertor and leave it in situ in the box,if the same as my rangie there is a half moon plate at rear of sump remove that and undo the four inner silver head bolts not the ones around the outside of the flywheel,turn the flywheel round with a screwdiver pushing against the teeth,this then leaves the torque con in place thus needing less clearance to seperate from bellhousing,just be aware if box needs supporting or not once all bolts from b housing removed my 4.0 rr didnt but not sure on a disco hth

pugsley said:

hi paul you can unbolt the tourque convertor and leave it in situ in the box,if the same as my rangie there is a half moon plate at rear of sump remove that and undo the four inner silver head bolts not the ones around the outside of the flywheel,turn the flywheel round with a screwdiver pushing against the teeth,this then leaves the torque con in place thus needing less clearance to seperate from bellhousing,just be aware if box needs supporting or not once all bolts from b housing removed my 4.0 rr didnt but not sure on a disco hth

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gotcha, I have every thing undone up top but the wiring harness. I will start on the bottom tomorrow. I guess its easier to pull the wiring from under the dash instead of unhooking every thing on the engine since the junkyard did this.
Paul

Check the big, flat metal flexplate between the flywheel and the torque converter is ok and is free of cracks.
Might be worth you changing it whilst you got it apart as these can slowly start to deteriorate and start rattling badly when the car is hot.
Otherwise its all got to come apart again to replace it if it fails and you'll kick yourself if it happens in the next couple of months.

BoomerV8 said:

Check the big, flat metal flexplate between the flywheel and the torque converter is ok and is free of cracks.
Might be worth you changing it whilst you got it apart as these can slowly start to deteriorate and start rattling badly when the car is hot.
Otherwise its all got to come apart again to replace it if it fails and you'll kick yourself if it happens in the next couple of months.

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OK good info, The one on the engine that I bought looks good so if i find some damage on the other plate I will change them out. thanks!

pugsley said:

hi paul you can unbolt the tourque convertor and leave it in situ in the box,if the same as my rangie there is a half moon plate at rear of sump remove that and undo the four inner silver head bolts not the ones around the outside of the flywheel,turn the flywheel round with a screwdiver pushing against the teeth,this then leaves the torque con in place thus needing less clearance to seperate from bellhousing,just be aware if box needs supporting or not once all bolts from b housing removed my 4.0 rr didnt but not sure on a disco hth

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The bolts are really hard to get out of the torque converter. Any ideas why? This is the new engine. Could it be from overheating?



I hope the ones in the tranny now are not as hard to get out.

also The new (used) engine is very dirty on the inside. Anybody have any ideas how to flush it out good?

green-lantern said:

The bolts are really hard to get out of the torque converter. Any ideas why? This is the new engine. Could it be from overheating?

I hope the ones in the tranny now are not as hard to get out.

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green-lantern said:

also The new (used) engine is very dirty on the inside. Anybody have any ideas how to flush it out good?

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The bolts might be loctited (or similar). Look for a residue on the threads when you remove them, they are not bolts you wish to come loose, so refit with loctite!
Don't worry about a dirty engine, V8's are an old design so are quite dirty running and the oil doesn't stay clean in them for long.
Use a good quality 10W40 or 15W40 oil and change the oil a bit more frequently - it'll soon flush out. I never do more than 5000 miles between oil changes - but I'm fussy.

BoomerV8 said:

The bolts might be loctited (or similar). Look for a residue on the threads when you remove them, they are not bolts you wish to come loose, so refit with loctite!
Don't worry about a dirty engine, V8's are an old design so are quite dirty running and the oil doesn't stay clean in them for long.
Use a good quality 10W40 or 15W40 oil and change the oil a bit more frequently - it'll soon flush out. I never do more than 5000 miles between oil changes - but I'm fussy.

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Thank you very much! This is all good information. I am about ready to pull the old one It seems I am taking a while to do this but I just don't have a whole lot of time to work on it + I am fussy also about the work I do so I like to do it right the first time. I'm going to pull the pan and the valve covers tomorrow so I can clean it out some.

Would you guys worry about this being a leaking head gasket or would you think its just oil that has leaked down from the valve covers?
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When I said this sucker was dirty I was for real. The rocker arms feel good and tight though (no play).
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EDIT: BTW how do you get to those bell housing bolts

I shouldn't worry about the oil weep it might go on for ages like it - doesn't look at all serious.
Might be an idea to run the engine on some 10W40 oil for a couple of hundred miles.
That way alot of the crud inside should dissolve and be held in suspension in the oil.
You may find that several frequent oil changes will be necessary to reduce the residue within the engine, but remember V8s are dirty engines anyway!!
I'm assuming the bellhousing bolts you refer to are the ones at the top.
You will need to get the engine supported on a hoist and remove the engine mounts.
Then lower it down slightly to give you access to the bolts.
Prepare yourself for skinned knuckles as access is still tight!!

well I just busted my lip wide open trying to get those ****ing TC bolts out wow I'm ****ed. that's all I had left before pulling the ****ing thing out. Such an odd bunch of size and different type bolts in this damn thing. So much room under the hood and they still made it a bitch to work on.

bump

back at it I got the other engine cleaned and preped to go in now I'm ready to swap them out. I guess this is pretty boring to a lot here but I really apreciate boomer for all the info. Thanks

Damn this is crazy. what does it mean when one side of the engine looks MUCH MORE DIRTY AND NASTY than the other side? please tell me what would cause this!
this is the cleaner side\/


and this is the dirty nasty side. \/





valve covers side by side.

What would cause the two heads to look so much different? It looks kind of dry on one side and the other side looks like nothing but sludge.

Please! does anyone know why it would look so different on one side than the other. Should I pull the oil pan while I have the engine out?

have I seen this question and the pics somewhere else... I am sure I answered it...

my answer (for what it's worth) was that it could be that the head gasket is leaking that side and so the water contamination is there and not so much gets round the rest of the engine

One side of the motor has got hot possibly?
Do the heads look the same from the outside?
i.e. have they the same level of oxidisation to the alloy?
Look between the block and head at the head gaskets - are they old or newish looking?
If it's an engine bought unwittingly from someone unscrupulous it might be worthwhile checking it's all there internally and not a loosely put back together f**ked one. (so it looks good enough to sell to an unsuspecting punter)
You may think I'm joking, but it DOES happen.
If it was me, I'd be pulling the heads off for a closer look inside and be preparing myself for a partial engine rebuild.