Electricary Issues Re: Doors/Lights

Alright,

Ok now before I go calling a Priest (I have already flicked water at the RR chatting "The power of Christ compels you") can anyone help with my truck's recently acquired possession?

Yesterday morning I unlocked the car as usual and the passenger door remained locked as did the driver's door, rear door unlocked as they should. So, I used key in drivers door which initially locked the rears then unlocked the drivers and rears, no joy with passenger.

Had a fiddle with the fob, manually using the key etc but the passenger door is 'superlocked' will not open at all. So last night I locked the car using button (rear doors) used key in drivers to lock it and thought 'I'll just check tailgate' and this still opened, causing the alarm to go off? Not very secure I thought (as I removed all 'of value' gear).

Then this morning, neighbour knocks at the door to tell me my sidelights are on... Sure enough they were, no knobs turned on dash etc, quick press of the fob (unlock, lock then unlock) lights go out??? Tested the truck and started fine so lights cannot have been on long (my battery isn't the best), so now I am stumped...

Sould I disconnect RF receiver? Thinking of leaving battery off for a couple of hours in hope of reset.

Further strangeness from the old girl, still scratching my head over the alarm arm/disarm indicators swapping to sidelights quirk.

Many thanks in advance,

Diehard :fighting2:

charge yo battery - or better still replace it for one with the biggest CCA yu can - and remove the aerial..

Sounds exactly like the problems i had remove ariel wire ie blue one, but would advise replacing with upgraded r/f unit it sounds also that you may have to replace the passenger door mech as i had to do. as it appears they get burnt out because of this problem i replaced my battery before i had all this problem and it used to drain. however since replacing the r/f unit and the door mechs. i've had no problems at all. say's i tongue in cheek. part no for upgraded r/f is YWY500170 i would also advise buying from main dealer as i had problems with two i purchased from elsewhere that were cheaper. p.s hope you get sorted.

Cheers for the info, my battery goes flat if RR not ran for over day but I just thought it was a Duff batery. With regards to burn out mech, I have never noticed erratic functions etc, would this. But un-noticable?

I hadn't really noticed problems with door mech's until they packed up really but had diagnostics done which confirmed door mechs u/s. It is possible your battery is not up to scratc would be worth having it checked out first. but think you definately have r/f problem. Hopefully one of the more senior experienced members on here can give you some advice like, wammers,datatek,dougdotcom or zr1200, but definately sounds like it to me.

Diehard said:

Cheers for the info, my battery goes flat if RR not ran for over day but I just thought it was a Duff batery. With regards to burn out mech, I have never noticed erratic functions etc, would this. But un-noticable?

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First off get yourself a decent battery, 135AH 1000CCA Alphaline from Battery Megastore is the biggest that will fit. That will eliminate spurious problems.
You battery is probably being drained by a duff RF receiver, this can also burn the lock motors, you won't know until they fail, you need to think about fitting the lates spec receiver (NOT from fleabay)
Then it will be onto replacing the locks if they still do not work

Oki doki, RF is being unplugged tomorrow night to save remaining locks battery was on my list of 'to buys' buy kinda put it behind a new exhaust, front diff and Tyres...

Question, are all lock solenoids different? I.e. can I put a rear N/S in a front N/S?

Diehard said:

Oki doki, RF is being unplugged tomorrow night to save remaining locks battery was on my list of 'to buys' buy kinda put it behind a new exhaust, front diff and Tyres...

Question, are all lock solenoids different? I.e. can I put a rear N/S in a front N/S?

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They are not solenoids, they are electric motors, locks are different front to rear as far as I know, the motors could be replaced if you can find a supplier of the right type motor.

Ok no worries, I gotta figure out how to open the bloody door before I can do anything anyways lol

"Further strangeness from the old girl, still scratching my head over the alarm arm/disarm indicators swapping to sidelights quirk.".


I had this problem, changed battery and removed RF receiver blue wire, and no further problems, my lights also switched from side lights to indicators, this is an option in the BECM, so I was able to change it back eventually...

Good luck

Well blue wire popped out tonight (she was flat this morning ) so fingers crossed for tomorrow.

Do people think I'll need both drivers and passengers motors or is the drivers a consequence of "super locked" passengers?

Battery was as fit as a butcher's this morning, I also managed to replace the EAS pump rubbers so another thing fixed... now onto door lol

Hey people, going to have a hack of this tomorrow.

Any hope of cleaning the mech out and all being fab and groovy? Planing on opening the door without breaking anything... If I can?

Ok tried to pop the door open with a big screwdriver and some tapping of the mech and it didn't work (I don't want to destroy the mech as only replacing the motor) so does anyone have any tips?

Think you will have to replace complete mech !!

Well I finally sorted it today but what a fecking carry on!

Tips:

- Buy a long screwdriver! It is unlikely you'll have one long and slender enough so just get one

- Heat the end of the screwdriver with a blowtorch... this allows a pilot hole to be made before cracking the housing, or if your like me, you just melt top and bottom of area to smash and it comes away easier

- Before starting, spray WD40 into the lock hole (do with rear passenger door open and long straw) this aids the 'falls down with gravity' bit post spring removal

Also, don't worry about buying a mech with a cord, if your RR has the mech with with female plug hole. I had the wrong one and paniced when I got in there, however, it turns out that they both work! The none corded mech just has an extra bit of loom, so if your going from a socket type to a cable, your ok. However, other way around, you best getting the extra loom (for reference, my RR and the donor RR were same year, model and even same colour but mechs were different...).

I did find it amusing today that after 30mins of shoving, hammering and swearing at the last stage ("the latch will fall with gravity and the door release" - yeah right) that when I gave up and slammed the rear passenger door in temper, the front door (which I had been trying to open for last 2 hours) popped open...

Diehard said:

when I gave up and slammed the rear passenger door in temper, the front door (which I had been trying to open for last 2 hours) popped open...

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:hysterically_laughi