Disco 2 EKA code, where to get it!

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Zaphod

Active Member
Posts
182
My D2 is not responding to the key, it decided to do this just after passing the MOT and being insured, and while parked outside my garage with my only useable car parked inside..
The EKA has not been entered into the security information that should be with the handbook. I have tried the stealers but they want me to go in with my V5.. this would be possible but means walking 20 miles as the other car is stuck in the garage.. Any suggestions as to a helpful non jobsworth stealer that may be able to give me my EKA?
 
Some will give it to you over the phone some won't. Looks lke you are going to have to get a lift. Or try another dealer.
 
But not all have valid MOT/Tax.. only 2 do at this time, the disco and the CLK which is parked in the garage
However I found a better dealer who did it over the phone. Now I need to try and find out how to re-sync the key fob.. I am sure the EKA is used for this as well, the key itself seems fine, lights are working as normal but the car does not want to know
 
But not all have valid MOT/Tax.. only 2 do at this time, the disco and the CLK which is parked in the garage
However I found a better dealer who did it over the phone. Now I need to try and find out how to re-sync the key fob.. I am sure the EKA is used for this as well, the key itself seems fine, lights are working as normal but the car does not want to know

Don't think the fob will sync until the EKA has been accepted. That's the way it works on a P38 don't know about the Disco II.
 
Are you following the instrucions in the owners handbook to the letter?

Hearing the beeps when you hold the key over for the first 5 seconds?

Waiting 5 minutes after code is entered.

The fob should not need resyncing, if it does then you will need a nanocom to reenter the key code.

Cheers
 
Do you have a nanocom or T4? as the fob has failed the root of this is the standard sunroof issue, it leaked, the fob failed but the car would still start, then it would not! the Sunroof has hopefully been fixed. The softfdash is next up (HG failure) but I am a bit fed up with the D2 now, its always playing up!
 
Yes, I have a nanocom,

But unless you follow the owners handbook faithfully then the EKA code will not work. Did ti give you the beeps to say code accepted?

Cheers
 
I will let you know when I have tried later, I got a lift into work today.. but I am in Oxfordshire (the car is near Bicester, but I live in Wantage) If the EKA works then its location can be changed!
 
@Zaphod ,

Well , If I can help by putting the nanocom on it, then let me know, but the nanocom like all diagnostics needs the immobiliser to be disabled before it will communicate with the BCU.

I am up near Banbury , so quite close.

Cheers
 
Well the EKA worked, and now the key fob appears to be working.. not sure what had cause all the fun, apart from the normal sunroof issue. The car had been parked up unused since June, and in that time developed a leak in the front sunroof and the battery went flat. However I may still need some assistance, it may be an idea to get a second fob sorted out for it, and possibly the passive immobilizer removed!
 
Sounds good. Glad to hear you are back on the road,

Second fob, A rover 75 / 45 fob will do the same thing and are normally cheaper ) except the passive immobiliser chip is different. Also would be worthwhile changing it so that a key can disable the alarm as well as the fob.

Passive immobiliser then should not be a problem, but can be turned off with nanocom. ( not sure about other diagnostics).

Cheers
 
Have you unlocked , got in it and waited, and after approx 30 secs it has started then somebody may have overridden your passive immobliser.

Cheers
 
Yes, the light starts blinking on the dash at about 30s, it wont start with the plain key(no fob) I have but did with the D2 key. Are you sure D2 keys have the chip? I always believed it looked for the fob itself
 
@Zaphod , I think you may have misunderstood my point:

The fob itself has the electronics board, fixed on this for a D2 key fob is a second yellow chip. ( see photo below)

The rover 75 key fob has a separate black "lozenge" chip in the fob, which is not on the electronics.

If your car will not start using a normal ( no fob) key then the immobiliser is obviously working. If you used a R75 key fob , which does not have the yellow chip , then if it re-immobilised you would have to press , lock / unlock on the fob and then start the car.


Number 1 is a D2 key, number 2 is a rover 75 key.

Hope that helps.

Cheers
 

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Meanwhile, over here in 'Pedants Corner':- The yellow component is a capacitor, rather than a 'chip' or integrated circuit.....
I'll get me coat.

Looking closer at Neilly's photo, there appears to be quite a few components missing down the left hand side of the Rover 75 fob board. I wonder if refitting those would give it the same functionality as the D2 fob, or if there are programming differences too.
 
Hi @Spong ,

If you have not got your coat and left by now. :p

The only difference having programmed the two for use on a D2, is that the passive immobiliser does not work on the R75 fob for the D2 ignition coil passive immobiliser.

The point aabout stating it is missing the yellow chip, is that it is easy for anybody to see and verify, as some are sold R75 /45 key fobs as genuine D2 keyfobs and wonder why they suddenly have an issue with the car not starting.
But for the setting alarm, locking / unlocking they work the same way.

Cheers.
 
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