Disco 2 Drivers window stuck open, others not working

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Unfortunately due to other commitments I've not done as much as I wanted on the Disco today.

What I did manage to find was some corrosion on the plug and socket that could be the source of the problem, I managed to clean it up best I could and reconnect it. Still no life other than a click from the BCU. Tomorrow I have more time and will be able to investigate and clean up the connections properly, also check the feed as per your suggestions. Will report back tomorrow.





 
welcome, i kinda doubt that the BCU to be faulty only for the front windows operation, it usually gives you much more trouble but everything is possible... if the earth is good meaasure if the BCU has feed with ignition on at C0664 pin 7 and C0660 pins 1 and 13 then put voltmeter across C0664 pins 1 and 4 and give any command with the front LH window switch to see if you get any activity... according to the results we'll speak again, good luck

C0017 pin 7 = No corrosion, good earth

C0664 pin 7 = 11.14 volts, ign on.

C0664 pins 1 & 4 continuous feed of 11.14 volts regardless if command given or not (LH Window)

C0660 pins 1 & 13 = no feed
 
C0660 pins 1 & 13 = no feed
confirm when you say pin 1 and 13 no feed do you mean across these pins or each pin against earth? cos that's how you must measure not between these pins , maybe i was a bit unclear in my post but i said "feed at C0660 pins 1 and 13" not across them ;)

also check C0664 -4 against earth and give commands thos way to see what happens

if there's no feed at C0660 - 1 NOR on 13 is not good at all cos it might be an interruption in the main harness, as pin 1 is hardwired to interior fusebox fuse F29(at C0587-5) and pin 13 to engine bay fusebox F13(C0577-4)... though missing feed on both these pins would affect other systems too IMO not just the front windows
 
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confirm when you say pin 1 and 13 no feed do you mean across these pins or each pin against earth? cos that's how you must measure not between these pins , maybe i was a bit unclear in my post but i said "feed at C0660 pins 1 and 13" not across them ;)

also check C0664 -4 against earth and give commands thos way to see what happens

if there's no feed at C0660 - 1 NOR on 13 is not good at all cos it might be an interruption in the main harness, as pin 1 is hardwired to interior fusebox fuse F29(at C0587-5) and pin 13 to engine bay fusebox F13(C0577-4)... though missing feed on both these pins would affect other systems too IMO not just the front windows

Sorry, it's me not making things clear :rolleyes:
I've just run through the proceedure again and here's the results;

C0660 pin 1 (ign on) is live.
pin 13 (ign on) is live
pin 1 (ign off) is live
pin 13 (ign off) is live but only 1.3volts

C0664 pin 4 (ign on) is live (clicking when command made but nothing working)
pin 7 (ign on) as above
pin 4 (ign off) is live (but no clicking upon command)
pin 7 (ign off) as above

Interior fusebox fuse 29 found to be good but replaced anyway
Engine bay fusebox F13 as above

Hope I've made things a bit clearer :)
 
OK it's clear for me now(at least i hope :)) i seems that the BCU is not swithcing the feed for the motor then cos it must change polarity between pins 1 and 4 on LH switch command, check again C0664 - 4 or 1 against earth or between each other with C0744 unplugged, C0744 is the last suspect cos f there's corrosion in it it might trick the BCU to not switch polarity but if you dont get any activity on C0664 1 or 4 with LH switch command then unfortunately it seems that the BCU is the problem... you might consider retrofitting this (google out "Directed Electronics 535T Power Window Automation System with One Touch Operation" amazon)
using the existing switches and motors and bypass the BCU for front windows completely, you just have to splice into the existing circuit
 
welcome, yes, as long as it clicks on switch command, it has the earth and all the feeds but doesnt change polarity it seems very like it... bad luck m8, if you for want to change it you'll need tester cos it has to be programmed to work with everything on your car... or retrofit that module and you're done with it
 
welcome, yes, as long as it clicks on switch command, it has the earth and all the feeds but doesnt change polarity it seems very like it... bad luck m8, if you for want to change it you'll need tester cos it has to be programmed to work with everything on your car... or retrofit that module and you're done with it

I'll probably get rid of the D2, it's cost me a fortune in the couple of months I've owned it (gearbox, alarm, coolant pipes and lots more) a line has to be drawn somewhere.
 
it seems that you was unlucky enough to buy it with many issues but imo would be a shame to give up now after you've already spent a small fortune on it... so did i in mine and i'm stubborn enough to protect my investment... beside the fact that in a kinda masochistic way i love it against all odds :)
 
and you are learning about it and it's 'character' ....

I should have learnt a long time ago, this is my 3rd D2 and 44th year of landy ownership, some of us never learn :D

I've put so much time and money into this one if I sell it I'll lose money, but if I keep it how much more will it need? So far I've had one days use out of it, if I replace the BCU that could open a whole new can of worms. I might just put a direct feed and a 3 way switch for the drivers window but at the moment I can't bear the sight of the damn thing :eek:
 
I should have learnt a long time ago, this is my 3rd D2 and 44th year of landy ownership, some of us never learn :D

I've put so much time and money into this one if I sell it I'll lose money, but if I keep it how much more will it need? So far I've had one days use out of it, if I replace the BCU that could open a whole new can of worms. I might just put a direct feed and a 3 way switch for the drivers window but at the moment I can't bear the sight of the damn thing :eek:
That was the same as my D2,TD5.Spent a fortune on it,just to get it back on the road safely,but what else will and probably would go wrong with it,so I cut my losses and sold it,never regretted it either.:D:D
 
Against my better judgement I have removed the BCU, it's rattling round in the plastic box so I'm assuming the Lone Ranger has had this apart and couldn't be bothered to put the screws back in to secure the board. I've found the cost of the relays in the BCU are around £3 each but since I don't know if it is the relay, do I spend £3 each and replace them 'just in case'? or am I throwing away more time and money on a dying donkey?
 
Against my better judgement I have removed the BCU, it's rattling round in the plastic box so I'm assuming the Lone Ranger has had this apart and couldn't be bothered to put the screws back in to secure the board. I've found the cost of the relays in the BCU are around £3 each but since I don't know if it is the relay, do I spend £3 each and replace them 'just in case'? or am I throwing away more time and money on a dying donkey?
eeeee awwwww.
 
in a previous post you said it was
Nigel-S said:
C0664 pin 4 (ign on) is live (clicking when command made but nothing working)
pin 7 (ign on) as above
pin 4 (ign off) is live (but no clicking upon command)
pin 7 (ign off) as above
... so, again C0664 - 7 is hardwired to fuse F34 so it must be live, pins 1 - 4 are feed for the LH front motor and 2 - 6 are for nthe RH motor and the BCU swaps polarity between wires on up and down commands from the switches... so across 1 - 4 you must see voltage only by commuting the switch , so across 2 - 6 but 7 must be live with ignition on...take a look to the front windows diagram in RAVE cos even if you are not electrician you'll see the obvious and you seem quite handy with this... so let's say if you missed that 7 is live but you dont get any activity on 1 - 4 with LH switch or on 2 - 6 on RH switch the problem is with the BCU's internal relays
 
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