Door latches

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stjohnsmythe

Active Member
Posts
474
Need to replace the driver side door latch on my P38. Am I right in thinking the front and rears are the same? There are lots of rear latches reasonably priced on flea bay but the driver door ones seem to be two/three times as much.
 
Yea, they're different. Annoyingly I bought the passenger one for £25 and they had the driver's available for the same. Should of bought both when I had the chance!
 
Front and rear are different. Strange that rear ones are cheaper and easier to get than front ones when the rear ones are £50.00 dearer new. If it's the motor that's duff get a cheap rear one and swap the motor over.
 
Front and rear are different. Strange that rear ones are cheaper and easier to get than front ones when the rear ones are £50.00 dearer new. If it's the motor that's duff get a cheap rear one and swap the motor over.

The driver's door doesn't open/close off the fob but the rest do. I have to use the key to lock/unlock the door (this does all the central locking). Does this means the motor has burnt out and if so is it easy to swap them over if I do buy a rear latch/lock?
 
The driver's door doesn't open/close off the fob but the rest do. I have to use the key to lock/unlock the door (this does all the central locking). Does this means the motor has burnt out and if so is it easy to swap them over if I do buy a rear latch/lock?

Yep I had that problem where the door wouldn't unlock from the central locking but the sill button would unlock it and lock it.

I bought a rear lock and just swapped the motors, it's pretty easy you just take the motor out of the new one and put it into the old.
 
The driver's door doesn't open/close off the fob but the rest do. I have to use the key to lock/unlock the door (this does all the central locking). Does this means the motor has burnt out and if so is it easy to swap them over if I do buy a rear latch/lock?

Possibly not a lot else to go wrong you would need to take a look. Never done it but people have apparently just clips out i am lead to believe. IF you have a look at RANGEROVERS.NET HOME there is a lock strip on there somewhere i think.
 
Whilst you're at it you might want to modify the outer handle so that it returns more easily and you could consider disconnecting the super locking.
 
Replaced the driver's side on the weekend but this time bought a replacement latch from somewhere that refurbs them and guarantees they work. Swapped it over and it worked straight away which makes me think the £25 quid ebay special I bought for the passenger side has a burnt out motor.
 
Do you know whereabouts the super locking connects?

I believe that it's a second motor that operates the superlock so you can either physically stop the motor from doing anything by filing off the white bit that operates the superlock in the mechanism or removing the white cog that operates it.
Or you can electrically stop it working by cutting the wires that power the superlock, either in the doors or at the BECM or removing the four fuses that supply the power.
 
I know i'm probably being bit thick but noticed some mech's are advertised with wiring and some without i assume they all need the wiring:eek: or are they different for different years so you have to make sure you get the right one for your year.:confused:
 
I know i'm probably being bit thick but noticed some mech's are advertised with wiring and some without i assume they all need the wiring:eek: or are they different for different years so you have to make sure you get the right one for your year.:confused:

Different types. Mine is a 98 and has the motors with a loom, i.e. wires coming out. Best to pop off a door card and take a look.
 
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