Door Hinge Adjustment

The passenger door on my 200tdi won't shut fully, unless I adjust the striker plate inwards and really slam the door hard. Something is stopping it closing fully and I think the front edge of the door is set too far inwards and is pressing too much on the seal (which is quite new). It has new style hinges fitted and I have adjusted the door so it sits square in the aperture.

Does anyone know if I can adjust the door outwards using shims ? I currently have shims/spacers between the hinge/bulkhead and the hinge/door. To shift the door outwards I guess I would need to remove the door/hinge shims, or add more shims on the bulkhead side of the hinge ?

Any ideas ?

if you have to push stiker further inwards it would seem like front of door is in too far does it look like it is , have you fitted the right hinges top/bottom and right side

The front of the passenger door looks slightly too far in and presses hard on the the seal. Drivers door seems ok. Pretty sure hinges are fitted right (with door mirror fitted to top ones) but is there a difference from side to side ?

Hinges are genuine LR O/E ones

yes there is a difference side to side , hinges are wedge shaped thinnest part to the top

Hmmm....

That's got me thinking. Thanks for the advice. I'll check

Well I just checked the hinges and they're all on the right way. Any other ideas ?

Think there are 2 types of hinges - from memory they are different thicknesses

May be you have thinner ones than originally fitted

If the rubber seal is fully hammered home, no reason why you couldn't shim under the hinges to move the front edge out a bit - bolts should be plenty long enough

I've had similar problems, and found the catch to be the problem... the striker loop that the door catch engages with has a pin with a plastic cover that tends to wear... a temporary fix was to wrap with insulation tape!
I've now got the x-eng catches with metal instead of plastic...
But now the door hinges have dropped due to wear... the hobby continues...

There should be a single gasket between the hinge block and the bulkhead.

And then as many shims as necessary between the other side of the hinge block and the door itself in order for it to sit flush with the bulkhead surface when closed. To move the door outwards away from the seal remove some of the shims between the door and the hinge block. To push it against the seal add shims.

The in/out movement at the back of the door is set by the position of the catch as you know. And there is movement in the attachment of the hinge blocks to the bulkhead for up/down/left/right to accommodate variances in the door gap.

In theory the door should be fully flush within the aperture, and the "bulge" down the side of the body should form one straight line from wing to bulkhead to door(s) to rear tub, but as we all know this is rarely the case. A combination of worn hinges, previous owners who don't bother to set them up correctly, and a belief that it's just "how Land Rovers are" means many vehicles have ill-fitted doors.

So if I removed the shims between the hinge and the door entirely would that cause me a problem ?

I'm thinking that might get the door aligned better at the front but if it's going to leak, sag or whatever then I need to find another solution (I have enought leaks as it is)

No, that won't cause a problem. If that's the position at which the door is correctly sited then that's fine

Thanks - will give it a go

Door isn't bent is it ?

I had one that had been blown open by the wind and had to bend it back to get it to shut, never the same again