Discovery rear body mount replacing

A bit more work on the big 'ole - well it is now .....


started to manuf repair plates and trial fit....





Also found out - peeps wot replaced the floor didnt put the rubber supports between the floor and the chassis - that is why the back end dropped - now it is (sort of) in the correct position, there are 1/4" gaps where the rubber packing pieces are meant to be - looks like more bits to be robbed off the convertable .

hopefully getting my box section tomoz to strengthen the corners

oh - and before anyone says i should have replaced the X-member - that's what will happen at some other time - its gorra be back on the road by Sunday PM.

'Ere Daft, looking alright mate. Have to head out and check everyfink out on some gentle lanes now

joggling edge is better than trying to butt weld with mig

not if yu
a) dont have a joggler
b) cant get the metal in if its joggled.

only trying to help butt welding is harder with nothing underneath

yup - i know .

jamesmartin said:

only trying to help butt wielding is harder with nothing underneath

Click to expand...

Int that what you'd do to a freelander?:doh:

Looks like you making progress Daft, nice one buddy

A few more pics - n/s quarter this time. Only completed to first fit today. needs a bit of fettling to be accurate, but it gives you an idea and shows the 50mm sq box fitted in position to add strength.

first pic shows rear body mount without rubber pad underneath. The section with tube in is mounted on top.
I might try and refit both bushes after all the welding has been done and the boot floor rubbers have been fitted, but for now, it aligns up pretty well.


Rear corner cut away


Cleaned up and 200mm of box section in place.


First fit of cover plate. This will need to be fettled to sit flush with the rest of the X-Member and I may well put a couple of puddle welds through to the Box section too.


If I had to do it again, I would be tempted to fit the box section over the rear body mount as well as under the door frame. Better still put a length along the whole X-member.

Todays piccies..........

Second fit of ns corner section.


Final Fit of Door frame section and tacking of second section.


Cleaned up after fitting of all three pieces above os body mount.


Centre patch (not flush fitted) and cleaned up door frame replacement section.


NS section fitted, cleaned up and primer coat.



I feel like I am getting somewhere at long last

Good job mate! Did you mig weld it? What gas do you use??

Daz

Mig welder and using "automotive" gas - a mix or Argon, Co2 and Oxygen

Looks good mate! I'd be a very happy bunny!!

Daz

Keep up the good work mate. You never know the enthusiasm for welderising may return and you may feel the need to attack tufftee with said welderiser.

yeah - maybe - when I have recovered . I dont think it looks bad for a quick fix to hide the ****e underneath

very good mate!!

that's some precision cutting there for the new metal to sit flush!
On my old disco I just patched over where it needed, but recently on the defender floor box I did it like that, flush, and was a pain to cut it right, there was an angle involved too though..

what are you spraying it with? is it red oxyde in spray?

its red primer - dont think its red oxide - coz yu cant use red lead any more, but it gives it a uniform coat prior to the final paint coat.

you cant use?

I bought a tin last year, still have some, i think it says red oxyde, high zinc something

Red Oxide (otherwise known as red lead) was effective in the old days, and was famously used on the Forth railway bridge. The active ingredient was lead tetroxide which along with other lead paints could cause lead poisoning, and it has been withdrawn from use.

Red lead paints produced since the 1990s don't actually contain any lead. The red colour is just a pigment added by the marketing people to take advantage of public memory of real red lead primers.

You, most ikely, have a zinc oxide based primer, but I find it is better to use an acid etch primer.

A good guide paint prep & primers can be found at http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/primer.htm

Todays update


Priming the section over the OS body mount


cutting out OS corner section(showing Box section in place & weld thru primer)


View of Puddle Welding (Speshully for Ryder )


Initial clean up


Iron Phosphate primered


Red Primered (showing Acid etch primer n rear door where grinder caught it )
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attac...covery-rear-body-mount-replacing-img_1404.jpg

All ready for Colour matching tomoz and on to Sill repair with Pikeys assistance.