Disco td5 auto box cooling pipes

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N

Nev Roberts

New Member
Posts
6
Location
wrexham
Hi.
The l/h auto box cooling pipe came apart on my 03 Disco 2 td5 whilst towing. I have it recovered and wondered how tricky a job it is to change both pipes.
I intend to temp repair the pipe, refill gearbox and check it wasn't damaged. If all ok.. new pipes.
Has anyone changed these?
 
Welcome to the mad house!

I had the same problem back in March. It always seems to be the left hand side as this is the high temperature flow to the cooler, except in lockup when the pressure increases and the flow reverses. The flexible pipe on mine was quite perished, so I am thinking the original rating of the pipe was not up to the temperature.

The gearbox was fine, but it may take a few attempts at filling, depending on how many air locks there are.

I used this to make what I am considering a permanent repair, I not planning on replacing the whole pipe. JLR originals are now NLA.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122635051867 but it is available from many race car suppliers.

You will need narrow band, 10mm, Jubilee clips.

If you want to go down the route of replacing the pipes there is quite a good guide here http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_cooler_pipes.html

Good luck.
 
PopPops said:
Welcome to the mad house!

I had the same problem back in March. It always seems to be the left hand side as this is the high temperature flow to the cooler, except in lockup when the pressure increases and the flow reverses. The flexible pipe on mine was quite perished, so I am thinking the original rating of the pipe was not up to the temperature.

The gearbox was fine, but it may take a few attempts at filling, depending on how many air locks there are.

I used this to make what I am considering a permanent repair, I not planning on replacing the whole pipe. JLR originals are now NLA.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122635051867 but it is available from many race car suppliers.

You will need narrow band, 10mm, Jubilee clips.

If you want to go down the route of replacing the pipes there is quite a good guide here http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_cooler_pipes.html

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much for that info. It isn't straightforward I can see that, but not impossible.
Thanks again.
 
PopPops said:
Welcome to the mad house!

I had the same problem back in March. It always seems to be the left hand side as this is the high temperature flow to the cooler, except in lockup when the pressure increases and the flow reverses. The flexible pipe on mine was quite perished, so I am thinking the original rating of the pipe was not up to the temperature.

The gearbox was fine, but it may take a few attempts at filling, depending on how many air locks there are.

I used this to make what I am considering a permanent repair, I not planning on replacing the whole pipe. JLR originals are now NLA.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122635051867 but it is available from many race car suppliers.

You will need narrow band, 10mm, Jubilee clips.

If you want to go down the route of replacing the pipes there is quite a good guide here http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_cooler_pipes.html

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Hi.
Could I ask. Did you/ will you reuse the bayonet fixings off the ends of the old pipes where they attach to the oil cooler, or will you fit the adapted pipe directly to the cooler using jubilee clips? It looks a larger dia?
Cheers.
 
Nev Roberts said:
Hi.
Could I ask. Did you/ will you reuse the bayonet fixings off the ends of the old pipes where they attach to the oil cooler, or will you fit the adapted pipe directly to the cooler using jubilee clips? It looks a larger dia?
Cheers.
Click to expand...
I reused the bayonet fixing on the pipe to the cooler. The pipe from the box to the rubber pipe is no problem. I did consider fitting directly to the cooler but the new flexible pipe wouldn't easily fit over the "clip retaining collar" on the cooler and I didn't think there would be enough mechanical "hold" on the pipe to keep it there without the flare which is on the pipe from the box, but if I remember correctly, the pipe on the cooler and the fitting are near enough the same size when I measured them.

I did spend what was probably too much time faffing around measuring and trial fitting, but I didn't want it happening again!

The only thing to bear in mind is that the bayonet fitting must be fully seated on the cooler as they have been known to jump off, so make sure the fitting is working properly too, they get a bit "gritty".

Cheers.
 
PopPops said:
I reused the bayonet fixing on the pipe to the cooler. The pipe from the box to the rubber pipe is no problem. I did consider fitting directly to the cooler but the new flexible pipe wouldn't easily fit over the "clip retaining collar" on the cooler and I didn't think there would be enough mechanical "hold" on the pipe to keep it there without the flare which is on the pipe from the box, but if I remember correctly, the pipe on the cooler and the fitting are near enough the same size when I measured them.

I did spend what was probably too much time faffing around measuring and trial fitting, but I didn't want it happening again!

The only thing to bear in mind is that the bayonet fitting must be fully seated on the cooler as they have been known to jump off, so make sure the fitting is working properly too, they get a bit "gritty".

Cheers.
Click to expand...
Sorry to be a pain and ask another question....did you replace the rubber hose on the r/h side also? And if so, how do you access it? Can't even see the blighter...

Cheers.
 
Nev Roberts said:
Sorry to be a pain and ask another question....did you replace the rubber hose on the r/h side also? And if so, how do you access it? Can't even see the blighter...

Cheers.
Click to expand...
No problem!

I only replaced the l/h side. It seems it is only the l/h that fails, possibly because it is the "hot" side, but I did buy enough pipe to do both sides and make some mistakes! I looked closely at the r/h side and it seemed fine, ie, the pipe and swaging was at the "collar" and not moving. I now check both pipes from time to time. You can just see the joint on the pipe from the box from underneath if you follow the pipe from the box. Well, that's my method anyway.

You can see the pipe if you remove the plastic inspection plate in the o/s wheel-arch, as mentioned in discovery2.co.uk, 4th and 5th photos I think. Mine doesn't have ACE which may make access easier, I don't know.

Cheers.
 
Ok thanks again for your knowledgeable reply. I only intend to do the l/h one for now. I saw the removeable plastic panel on that r/h inner wing. Mine does have ace although deactivated. The ace lever is right in the way..I'll keep an eye on it...
Thanks once more for taking the trouble to reply. I am very grateful.
New pipe and clips plus atf arriving soon so hopefully if the box is ok...I'll be back on the road.
Nev.
 
Nev Roberts said:
Ok thanks again for your knowledgeable reply. I only intend to do the l/h one for now. I saw the removeable plastic panel on that r/h inner wing. Mine does have ace although deactivated. The ace lever is right in the way..I'll keep an eye on it...
Thanks once more for taking the trouble to reply. I am very grateful.
New pipe and clips plus atf arriving soon so hopefully if the box is ok...I'll be back on the road.
Nev.
Click to expand...
Good luck. The box is normally OK.

Cheers.
 
Morning PopPops, I know this is an old thread. Do you have any photos? I am thinking of repairing mine as mine popped off the other week and have not come round to looking at it yet. It would be appreciated. I was thinlking getting a local company to make up a hose with the old push on for the cooler side and then a swage with a female 1/2 inch bsp fitting the other, and using a compression on the pipe once cut off. What do you think?
 
Iwandavies351 said:
Morning PopPops, I know this is an old thread. Do you have any photos? I am thinking of repairing mine as mine popped off the other week and have not come round to looking at it yet. It would be appreciated. I was thinlking getting a local company to make up a hose with the old push on for the cooler side and then a swage with a female 1/2 inch bsp fitting the other, and using a compression on the pipe once cut off. What do you think?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, I don't have any photos. Where the car was returned by the recovery truck was a bit of an obstruction, so I just had to get it running and back into the drive as quickly as possible.

There is a write-up that may give you a good idea here: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_cooler_pipes.html

I used Mocal 13mm oil cooler pipe (as in my post above) available from many race car suppliers, basically for its temperature rating.

There is a flare on both the push fit and gearbox pipes, so I used narrow band "Jubilee" clips, after a discussion with a friend who builds and races a classic car. He said clips should be OK, which is what he uses on his engine oil cooler which is hotter and higher pressure than the Disc auto-box. I'm not sure what pressure the compression fitting would take, so I can't really comment on that. Would that mean removing the whole metal section from the box?

From much searching around, the pressure through the cooler seems to be around 30psi in normal operation, but could rise to 80psi. The flow through the cooler reverses and increases when the torque converter locks up.

Hope this helps.
 
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