Last autumn the oil cooler started leaking & had to be replaced. The connecting pipes didn't lock properly & fluid was lost - this occurred 3 times before they were successfully fitted. Recently the gearbox has become sluggish to change up & requiring higher revs before going in to top. It also can need very high revs before the car will start to move, then does so with a jerk. The oil level has been checked & is ok. Before I replace the box are there any parts that can be checked/changed? Torque converter, solenoids valves (for muck disturbed by 3 oil changes) etc?
Td5 Auto box problem
- Thread starter Equinut
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Change the filter if you haven't already done so.
Filter & oil were changed a year ago. The local L/R specialist I use advised against a further oil & filter change as they thought that would dislodge more muck.
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I do understand this as this is one school of thought. But it looks as if muck has dislodged and is now blocking oilways, it sounds to me like the torque converter isn't filling properly so it could be a problem with the pump or a blockage to it.
TBH, if it was me, I would do the filter and oil change as the harm already seems to have been done so it could maybe do good but couldn't do further harm.
But it is a personal decision.
Failing that it looks like a trip to a gearbox rebuilders, where they'll probably just reverse flush it or something.
Best of luck with it, and the bill.
sierrafery
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Run a stall test on it
Thanks- done that - revs peaked at 2800 for 3 secs, so the TC & clutch are both ok?
sierrafery
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Seems that the box is mechanically OK then, it's possible that there is an engine management issue which affecs the transmission management too cos these two are interdependent, this kind of thing needs investigation with a proper diagnostic tool to see live readings otherwise it's just a guessing game... if your's is Eu3 unplug the MAF and see what happens
sierrafery
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You should know what engine you have though, what year is it?... up to 2001 should be Eu2 after that Eu3... 2002 was the transition year and some of them from that year are a kind of Eu2/3 hybrid, on Eu3 the MAF is very important for the management and if it's faulty it can affect the shift controll too and unplugging it goes to a quite optimal default and the difference is noticeable, on Eu2 is neglectable unless the EGR is still active
Diagnostics showed no faults in the geabox so I've had the oil & filter changed. There was some dark grey sludge in the gearbox pan. it could be seen in the filter port & the drained oil (approx 3.5 lt) is also black. The replaced oil level was checked 4 times by going through the gear range with the engine running. It still refuses to change up into top & often has to be revved hard to get it to move. I've done another stall test - it held at 2.5k revs for 2-3 secs, then went to 2.8k for another 2-3 secs. A retired local mechanic thinks the clutches are failing, Further advice appreciated.
I had the same issue with regards to high revs to get it to move. In the morning I had to sit at 2000 rpm for at least one minute before it would wake up.
I replaced the gearbox and TC.
When I stripped the gearbox, all the clutch friction material had gone, and all oil ways full of gunk.
I also cut open the TC, and it too had lost all friction material from the lockup clutch.
I'm not saying you have the same issue as mine but your problems have a lot of similarities.
I replaced the gearbox and TC.
When I stripped the gearbox, all the clutch friction material had gone, and all oil ways full of gunk.
I also cut open the TC, and it too had lost all friction material from the lockup clutch.
I'm not saying you have the same issue as mine but your problems have a lot of similarities.
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You did well!
Just to take off the box tighten some bolts and replace a gasket, £1000 from an indy!
