Disco 2 Auto Gearbox not selecting

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DannyD

Member
Posts
13
Hi Guys,

This morning the auto box in my Discovery 2 stopped selecting gears. When I move it from "P" all the way through and back to "P" there is nothing. However, when I put it back into "P" (after going through all the other gears) there is a noise. Not a grinding noise as in gears but rather a "screeching" noise.

On the diagnostics I get the following:
1-Gear Selection not plausible (transmission switch)
2-Front Left outlet valve short to battery
3-Shuttle valve switch electrical failure
4-Engine speed input signal intermittent or missing

I checked the oil level and it is fine.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank Danny
 
Last edited:
Hi,

I have removed the gear selector switch and cleaned it out and checked for continuity. All seems fine.

The noise is ONLY if I go out of "P" and back in.

Does the torque converter have to turn freely?

Danny
 
DannyD said:
Hi,

I have removed the gear selector switch and cleaned it out and checked for continuity. All seems fine.

The noise is ONLY if I go out of "P" and back in.

Does the torque converter have to turn freely?

Danny
Click to expand...
you get that noise going in to p if t/box is in neutral or a diff ,cv half shaft etc is broken , it means gear box can turn which it shouldnt do under normal conditions and so car is unlikely to move,try it in diff lock
 
DannyD said:
Hi Guys,

This morning the auto box in my Discovery 2 stopped selecting gears. When I move it from "P" all the way through and back to "P" there is nothing. However, when I put it back into "P" (after going through all the other gears) there is a noise. Not a grinding noise as in gears but rather a "screeching" noise.

On the diagnostics I get the following:
1-Gear Selection not plausible (transmission switch)
2-Front Left outlet valve short to battery
3-Shuttle valve switch electrical failure
4-Engine speed input signal intermittent or missing

I checked the oil level and it is fine.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank Danny
Click to expand...

how did you check the oil was the engine off or engine running ?
on your diagnostics I would be only looking at 1 and 4 ..as 2 and 3 are abs related .... but I have seen on other makes like Volvo .... A rogue voltage where a dead short from the ABS upsets other things ...the 3 amigos should also be shown

the XYZ switch can be opened up and cleaned just need to shave down some rivets to reseal the switch ..normally the switch carbons up or water gets

the screeching sound is a bit of a geuss does it sound like cavitation or does it have whining noise or metallic noise
do a oil sample and check magnets inside the transmission pan could be a thrust bearing within the TC or transmission
there is a inspection hole check also flex plate
 
jamesmartin said:
you get that noise going in to p if t/box is in neutral or a diff ,cv half shaft etc is broken , it means gear box can turn which it shouldnt do under normal conditions and so car is unlikely to move,try it in diff lock
Click to expand...
just confirm on my d2
I have just went out and tried neutral in mine on the transfer box I have no abnormal noise while selecting gears
how ever the d2 auto does not have centre diff lock but it can be accessible with a few modifications
 
ozzyboydeano said:
just confirm on my d2
I have just went out and tried neutral in mine on the transfer box I have no abnormal noise while selecting gears
how ever the d2 auto does not have centre diff lock but it can be accessible with a few modifications
Click to expand...
you wont selecting gears, try selecting park whilst box is in neutral id be surprised if you can hear a noise when you do,
 
jamesmartin said:
noise definition is a personal thing ,id be checking drive train thoroughly
Click to expand...
totally agree
but normally if the dive train had issues these sort of things don't fail while standing still

the op also has a couple of fault codes that need to be cleared and fixed

like I said check oil sample this part of the drive train
 
Last edited:
H Guys,

My apologies for the late update, but for some reason the car refused to start all of a sudden too. Was cranking over but not firing up. Took me 2 days to get her going again.

Getting back to my initial problem. Well, I must admit that I am a little bit more than embarrassed to say the least :p ... The weeks prior to the car developing this "problem" I noticed a vibration whenever I pulled away and at lower speeds. So the day before I posted this I got underneath the car and noticed that most of the bolts (7 out of the 8) on the front propshaft were loose and 3 on the rear propshaft where it bolts onto the handbrake drum. In my infinite wisdom I removed the front propshaft thinking I will go the next day and get some new bolts and nuts.

However, next morning it completely escaped my mind that the front propshaft has been removed. That is when I posted. Funny thing is that even when I removed the XYZ switch I didn't even notice the front propshaft being off :cool::eek::oops::rolleyes:

Only when jamesmartin mentioned the drivetrain did I realize what I have done :p:D:p:cool::confused:

So ... thanks to everyone contributing. I have learned a thing or two. I just think it is a bit stupid that one cannot drive with the front propshaft removed :mad:
 
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