disco 1 lt77 to r380 got the box ready to go

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barnzy

Member
Posts
59
Location
leeds west yorks
hi there,whell to start off with ive had my disco 6 monthes its now turned black gained some td5 front and rear lights p38 deats and far 2 much more to list,my box has been screamind fore some time,ive got the full center console out,the hand brake drum moves forwayds and backwards ,the out put shaft on the tbox has a sh*t load ov play in it and the props buggard (front),ive decided time to do some changing,ive got an r380,waiting an a tbox and prop ,i will get a new clutch kit and a new clutch folk,will i need anything else,and im going to be changing this on my back any tips or advise,from what ive heard the weight of theunit makes it a t**t of a job
 
Get some friends to help ...

a GOOD trolley jack ...

Try a search of the threads to see if there are any 'specials' wivs the D1 ...

The hardest parts are getting the gearbox angled right, raising and lowering it to maneuvre through the chassis and getting the bellhousing back onto the engine – the angle is critical.

HD clutch fork kit (fork, slipper pads, push rod clip, spigot bearing) –
Aluminium release bearing –
Valeo 130 HD Clutch kit –
Propshaft bolts –
Gaskets, grease, seals –
Gear oil –
Clutch alignment tool

Put a cable tie around the push rod clip so that it won’t become detached in any future slave cylinder removal.

Undo the transfer box flange nuts whilst it’s still on the vehicle, the handbrake is on and it’s in difflock.
You need this locking force to be able to undo the nut so that you can do any flange related work on the bench.

The gearbox is about 65kg and the transfer box 40-50kg. Safety first!

Wrap your fingernail beds with zinc oxide tape but leave your finger tips showing. They get bashed from all angles and bleed.

Put up a gazebo or shelter over the vehicle if you don’t have any indoor space. It’ll allow you to work on through the UK weather.

Please do take the time to understand what’s involved.
Get someone to make you tea through the day!
 
its abit off food for thought,i am trying to swind it to do it at work but at the moment were just to bus and it cant wait,i have seen a couple off tips including,putting a jack upto the front crank pully when the weight of the box is on the engine,and getting some threaded bar for the lower bolt hols to act as guid pins,tbh i absolutly dreding changing it,and im not normaly shy of jobs like this ,the only thing simmalar ive had to do on my back was a box change on a old xj6 (the same zf box u find in the auto discos)i had and that was a nightmare to do as u dident have enough room to scratch your ar*e
 
200tdi engine needs a jack on rear of engine for support ,300tdi vehicle jack on panhard rod to front of sump /crank pulley ,td5 none
 
so the way the mounts are positioned on the 200tdi ,does this mean when the box is off its going to try lean further back and you need the jack to stop it doing so
 
take fan off to reduce chance of it hitting rad with all the engine movement cause you'll wanna drop the back end to get to top nuts
 
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