Disc Replacement

I have had a search and decided to tackle replacing the discs and pads on my 54 TD4 tomorrow as it doesn't look to difficult.

Just one question before I start, can the discs be removed without the complete removal of the caliper? ie; just swung back out of the way and supported.
Cheers.

No both parts of the caliper have to be unbolted from the hub.

agree with nodge

replaced my front discs and pads and an easy job

if u get a bungey u can use this to hold the calliper out of the way and hook it onto ur suspension

if i may say spend plenty of time making sure everything is spotless and use coppaslip to prevent the brakes from squealing

get some emery paper so u can cleaned everything up and make sure u degrease ur discs as it will have protection oil on it

the screws can be fun to get out, may need an impact screwdriver or use a cordless if really tight


hope that helps

I do not think the disc can be remover without taking the calliper off, I just can not remember at the moment, but it is one bolt more.
if you can not get the cross headed centralising screws out (2) then just drill the head off and then you will be able to get some pliers on and remove them, simples but you will need to buy some more .I know some people leave them off ,but I always put them back with a tiny bit of copper grease on the thread and underneath the top and then next time you will be able to get them off. hope this helps and new disc's should be cleaned with meth's

aaaaaarg while I was writing it was answered.

teddywood1 said:

aaaaaarg while I was writing it was answered.

Click to expand...

ner ner, lolol

did have fun getting the screws out plus half were missing, used a cordless drill and they slowly came out and bought all new ones and done the same with coppaslip

also always put a smear of coppaslip around the inner rim of the wheel front and rear and threads so easier to get the wheel off next time

Where do you all put copper slip?

I can't seem to stop my brakes from squealing. I cleaned them down with brake cleaner but only put copper slip on the piston and the opposing parts that push on the rear of the pads. Should I have put it elsewhere?

Don't forget to change the guide pins at the same time and put new grease that comes with them on.

Oh, and to remove the calliper it is only 2 bolts then there are another 2 bolts to remove the carrier., plus the cross head one on the disc and everything is off. Hang the calliper up as mentioned earlier. You do not need to disconnect the brake lines.

squealings caused by dust from pad,usually poor pads or seizing pistons / slides ,copper slips not necessary ,they come dry as new

i always put coppaslip on as the first time when i fitted new discs and pads they squeeled there heads off and drove me nuts , also got new calipers as the pistons kept seizing and went for broke and fitted the lot

the previuos owner had worn the pads down to virtually nothing and damaged the discs

personally put it on the back of the pads, disc screws, where the wheel fits around the hub , bolts , of course dont smear it on and very careful in applying it

Many thanks for your replies.
Calipers off, lots of cleaning and a bit of copperslip in the right places before re-assembling.

Should get me out of shopping duties for a few hours.....
Wonder how long I can make an oil change last next Saturday?

DO NOT USE COPPER GREASE ON THE GUIDE PINS!

It cause the rubber to swell up and then the caliper sticks wearing your discs and pads out quicker - and that's the minimum it can do.

Make sure you put copper slip (and replace) the little clips top and bottom of the pad that they slide along in the caliper anchor bracket. Often overlooked and can cause squeal

All done with no dramas. Just over 2 hours to complete and your info on how to tackle this one was invaluable.

I would post pictures of the rusty crap that I took off, but I am far too embarrassed and will not leave an essential job like that so long again!

Interesting thread, answered my concern about installing the new disks with the waxy stuff that's on them from their wrapping - looks like they've been on the dealers shelf for 15 years.

Was rather hoping to find some tips for 'persuading' the old disk off. Screws came out easy, but the disks don't want to budge. Looks like I'll have to carefully find somewhere to give them a bit of leverage, after a few taps with the No. 1 tool !

Suppose I should change the pads as well, but I haven't got any, the old ones arn't to bad, Rave doesn't say to change them and its a lovely evening - so its getting done tonight and old ones are going back on !

Give the disc a tap with a hammer. It'll just be stuck on the spigot. A tap on the top then the bottom will shift it.

Yep - the fave tool did its job. Actually it was an easy process tap disk, turn wheel a bit and repeat a few times and it came loose - one benefit of a missing gear in the IRD