Dinitrol? definitive answer required.

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Maybe they didn't have a clear picture in their minds of what the chassis was like. Maybe they were thinking about those C section girders that you get on a lot of commercial chassis. The advantage of ML3125 is that it mists up nicely and creeps over surfaces, so it's a lot easier to get good coverage inside completely enclosed spaces like Land Rover box sections. I also sprayed some underneath my floor mats and I'm pleased to say nearly two years later that my footwells are still black and oily rather than rusting through and the bolt heads still have a reassuringly greasy film. It also seems to work quite well as a timber preservative in the garden.
 
Maybe they didn't have a clear picture in their minds of what the chassis was like. Maybe they were thinking about those C section girders that you get on a lot of commercial chassis. The advantage of ML3125 is that it mists up nicely and creeps over surfaces, so it's a lot easier to get good coverage inside completely enclosed spaces like Land Rover box sections. I also sprayed some underneath my floor mats and I'm pleased to say nearly two years later that my footwells are still black and oily rather than rusting through and the bolt heads still have a reassuringly greasy film. It also seems to work quite well as a timber preservative in the garden.
I was wishing today that my chassis was a c section like lorries. at least it wouldnt have rotted so easily.
 
Another thing I've noticed is that nuts and bolts with ML3125 on them tend to undo more easily than if they are just dry and rusty. It's rather like WD40 in that respect. Is there anything Dinitrol can't do?
 
Another thing I've noticed is that nuts and bolts with ML3125 on them tend to undo more easily than if they are just dry and rusty. It's rather like WD40 in that respect. Is there anything Dinitrol can't do?

I would imagine it isn't nice to cook with.....
 
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