diff bearings

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wiltshire landyman

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salisbury plain wiltshire
couldnt understand why i had gone thru 2 inner and outer bearings on my front diff inside 4 months

we put the rr up on axle stands and secured the vehicle and ran it up the whole vehicle was shaking violently even at very low speed

so we took it all apart again and the bearings were totally out of shape ive never seen anything like it

made a few phone call to various landy mechanics i know and one suggestion came up about the prop,but ujs were all good.

there glyn lewis props so we gave them a ring and after 20 mins we had the prob solved,it turned out at some point the prop had been apart and was put back together incorrectly by 1/4 of a turn,simple as that

no more vibrations now happy days:D
 
Front Propshaft on a coil sprung LR std suspension should be out of phase by one spline on the sliding coupling. Glyn may use 2 splines if its likley to be fitted to a more lifted vehicle. Its to do with diff flange angle and transfer box flange on the front not being at right angles to one another. Rear should be in phase because they are usually close to being 90 degrees. Front isn't because Lr tilted the nose of the diff upward I think 11 degrees to give th etrack rod somwhere to go without being stupidly low grounding out.
 
Front Propshaft on a coil sprung LR std suspension should be out of phase by one spline on the sliding coupling. Glyn may use 2 splines if its likley to be fitted to a more lifted vehicle. Its to do with diff flange angle and transfer box flange on the front not being at right angles to one another. Rear should be in phase because they are usually close to being 90 degrees. Front isn't because Lr tilted the nose of the diff upward I think 11 degrees to give th etrack rod somwhere to go without being stupidly low grounding out.

What Jai said :)
 
i seem to rember that trying to say something similar but alot seem to think that 90 degree phasing was normal,in that a rear the ujs are in same plane
 
This can be tested rear radius arm some people fit the bushes in front of the mounts instead of behind (Me once) for a slight edge trialling shorter wheelbase (hardly noticable) when you do this you bring the bottom of the axle forward and raise the rear diff nose higher (worse on a salisbury or longer nosed diff) and this causes horrendus vibration on deacceleration or light on off cruising speed. This is down to the flange angles being wrong.

I suspect many "lift Kits" incorrectly fitted in this manner is quite often the cause of bad vibration when fitted by non mechanics or the unknowing. by moving the bottom of the axle closer to the front and lifting the vehicle by x ammount of inches can cause serious vibes. will be interesting when people say they have vibration issue how many are incorrectly fitted.
 
There is ALOT of Bollix on the net about prop phasing most companies only put props in phase as its the only way but LR have fitted them out of phase since the first coil sprung motors 70's.

Also worth a note is aftermarket Britpart supplied cheap propshafts such as paddocks cheapest do not always come phased correctly Nor do they UJ's have the same deflection as LR original equipment. They can be made better by using a dremel and taking of the casting marks to get them as good as LR Original equipment. I know this is the case for Series propshafts and looking at mine on the 90 I believe they are the same.

Series Propshaft phasing is always in phase because the diff flanges and transfer box flanges are v close to 90 degrees (enough not to worry about vibration anyhow)
 
Coil sprung models only:

One spline out on the FRONT propshaft,
In Phase for rear propshafts.

You've got me thinking now,I've got coiler axles(disco) but still on leafsprings on the 2a,the diff is set to the same angle it would be on a coiler and I still use the series prop,so do I need to put the front prop out by 1 spline?????
 
It's still the series box so 2wd but I've got a slight vibration since fitting the axles, although I put that down to the fact that the prop is turning now as it had freewheeling hubs on before.
 
i'd be tempted to remove the propshaft see if that cures the vibration. If so turn the diff end one spline in front of the transfer box end see if it makes much difference you may find it doesn't work in your case depending on angles that the axle is welded on its spring seats.
 
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