P38A Diesel lift pump replaced still not starting

it Still looks good, just got lubricated
Cover filter helped it pick up revs quicker. Nothing spectacular but you feel the torque is there more

Your dad still got the 4.6?

RangeRoller dt said:

it Still looks good, just got lubricated
Cover filter helped it pick up revs quicker. Nothing spectacular but you feel the torque is there more

Your dad still got the 4.6?

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Nice one mate will def look at my one. Yea he still got it least it work he still got a bit of blue smoke from when piston rings were replaced but is getting less and less though.

Bedding in maybe

Lukas018 said:

Nice one mate will def look at my one. Yea he still got it least it work he still got a bit of blue smoke from when piston rings were replaced but is getting less and less though.

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Obviously did not bust the bores.

Evening all,

Only managed a dry compression test due to rain, spot tested 2 cylinders wet. Got readings on both tests between 18-20. Think rave says around 20 bar.

Thoughts?

Next thing is injectors does anyone know where can get them tested and refurbed?

Thanks

Lukas018 said:

Evening all,

Only managed a dry compression test due to rain, spot tested 2 cylinders wet. Got readings on both tests between 18-20. Think rave says around 20 bar.

Thoughts?

Next thing is injectors does anyone know where can get them tested and refurbed?

Thanks

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As long as compression readings between cylinders are all within 10% they're good enough.

They are within 10% so little stuck what else it could be?

Right. Best check where we are:

Car lost power and died.
In tank pump replaced but no diesel at injectors.
Powerbox removed and a bit of fettling and diesel is now definitely at injectors?
Glow plugs definitely all working? Power at the plug and glows if removed and ignition turned?
Starts on Easystart and indeed started once but ran very rough with black smoke and revs all ovee the place.
@ovalandrover swapped FIP for a known good one but no change.
FIP timing done with dial guage as per RAVE.
Compression tests done and all good.
Have you taken the front cover off and checked flywheel and cam timing marks line up? The bright links on the chains?

Hi mate, thanks for this, when the car eventually ran I had to keep revs up to keep it running otherwise it would stall not sure info this changes things. Yep everything good to the injectors.

Not checked the timing marks on chain so this be the natural next step?

I heard front cover is a git to get off?

It helps to drop the sump at the front to make it easier to slip the covero off, it is fitted in over the crank end and underneath the cylinder head.
I thought you were checking the engine static timing when the pump was being done?
Using the flywheel pin and camshaft bracket along side the dti gauge you would have known straight away kiddo.

Ok mate. Yea timing was ok according to timing pin and locking peice on the cam cover all lined up. So dont want to a load of work but then again i am stuck what to check next?

For static timing cam Is set to 90• BTDC (vertical), then turned til pin locks to give reading.
No cam holder.

Check your chains. Coloured links should line up with sprocket marks. If you’ve jumped a cog you will notice.

Mark Piercy said:

It helps to drop the sump at the front to make it easier to slip the covero off, it is fitted in over the crank end and underneath the cylinder head.
I thought you were checking the engine static timing when the pump was being done?
Using the flywheel pin and camshaft bracket along side the dti gauge you would have known straight away kiddo.

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Lukas018 said:

Ok mate. Yea timing was ok according to timing pin and locking peice on the cam cover all lined up. So dont want to a load of work but then again i am stuck what to check next?

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sorry just been back over your responses. So everything lines up?
Just an idea, is the air filter still in its air box and hasn't broken up or blocked the inlet tube?
How about around the turbo, any tubes loose or collapsed?

Everything lines up when inserted timing pin and cam holder. Then we removed cam holder etc and set timing on FIP. Not checked turbo yet. Air filter etc is fine all clear.

I guess only next step take front cover off check timing bright links in right place albeit the timing seems conclusive but worth as engine is half stripped down anyway.

So taking cover off I drop sump pan then dismantle front components?

No point checking the bright links of the engine is all in ace with the timing tools. The bright links help to place the chains in their corresponding places in addition to the timing tools. The chains could be ten or twenty teeth out but if the tools sit in their place the chain could have every link a bright one.

Agreed. But I am at a complete loss what to try next?

Got a buddy sending me a working injector 4 from his P38 just to try it out. My one sensor looked cracked and wiring is taped up and repaired. Clutching at straws but worth a go.

At the point of giving up but come so far.

Does installing a 2nd hand engine affect the computer side of the car?

Did you get to do a compression test? Don't get impatient Lukas you'll find this problem.
When you has the rocker cover off, were there any rounded camshaft lobes or worn camshaft followers?
It's rare but happens, especially in today's VW engines.....

Thanks Mark. Yes I did one yest mate came in around 18-20 bar within 10% of each other, was a dry test and done a wet test on 2 cylinders (rain stopped play) came back same result.

I just checked glow plus and 3 of them not working but cant imagine it causing engine to run the way it is, would affect starting but cant see it as main issue.

I can only see it being the injectors now or one of them.

Would any sensors like crank or engine coolant sensor cause any non starting/no idle?

Failing crank sensor normally when hot will cause a none run or none start at cold.
A leak off test to rule out an open or defective injector.