P38A Diesel lift pump replaced still not starting

Recap,
New lift pump,
Swapped out FIP,
Engine timing position confirmed.
So, compression test next then.
Although the engine will be cold it will still reveal a difference if any in compression across the six cylinders.

Did fuel appear at the injector unions after swapping the FIP?

RangeRoller dt said:

Injectors are torqued to 48Nm.
Bit of coppaslip on em, check copper washers - anneal/or renew on assembly

Click to expand...

65 Nm or 48 lbft NOT 48 Nm.

Brill thanks. I will purchase a compression kit, see what brings up.

The FIP was bringing fuel up to injectors, no issue with that.

Off for a operation on Thursday so I will plan to do a compression test when recovered and start the strip down.

Think there was a lot more wrong with this motor than just a duff lift pump.

agreed. The lift pump had to be replaced regardless as it was split and leaking diesel, it is a case of a process of elimination and not a simple solution. it is a project so just take it for what it is and learn along the way.

^^^^ that is the guy to learn from.

He’s mentioned this few times...I even pointed out mine (more or less) run fines with no lift pump. There’s something your not telling us

If you’ve jumped a cog your no4 injector will throw a wobbly and itl splutter, smoke and won’t run properly.
Only way I know how to check timing is certain is take the head off so you are can see it’s at TDC then rebuild it up from there? Big job to me

RangeRoller dt said:

If you’ve jumped a cog your no4 injector will throw a wobbly and itl splutter, smoke and won’t run properly.
Only way I know how to check timing is certain is take the head off so you are can see it’s at TDC then rebuild it up from there? Big job to me

Click to expand...

If he has jumped a tooth the number four injector will work as normal it is just that the ECU will try to modulate the timing device beyond it's limit of movement. And injection will never be at TDC where it should be.

That’s what I think he got. Unless no4 is UC

Compression is probably fine, what mileage you got Lukas018?

RangeRoller dt said:

That’s what I think he got. Unless no4 is UC

Compression is probably fine, what mileage you got Lukas018?

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Number four injector signal has nothing to do with starting.

Ah right, I see now.

More pics the better, thread watched!

Thanks guys, the car has done 178,000 miles, no evidence in service history about engine issues apart from servicing not that would help anything, more so the injectors and chains could be original. I have attached photos (this was just removing the cam cover only not locked in TDC), engine is currently in TDC (according to locking pin and cam holder).

Is it worth taking the front cover plate off first to check timing before removing the head or what is/are the next logical steps please?

If it has jumped a cog, what is the solution?

Thanks,

That looks suspiciously clean for 170k miles!

Lukas018 said:

Thanks guys, the car has done 178,000 miles, no evidence in service history about engine issues apart from servicing not that would help anything, more so the injectors and chains could be original. I have attached photos (this was just removing the cam cover only not locked in TDC), engine is currently in TDC (according to locking pin and cam holder).

Is it worth taking the front cover plate off first to check timing before removing the head or what is/are the next logical steps please?

If it has jumped a cog, what is the solution?

Thanks,

Click to expand...

Have you done a compression test?

That is my next planned job.

Lukas018 said:

That is my next planned job.

Click to expand...

Needs doing before anything else.

How long have you owned this vehicle, and/or how far have you driven it with no problems??

Here is mine for comparison - just under 145,000m, earliest type P38 (old), very clean as an example but nowhere near as much as yours
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/2-5d-cam-cover.350746/

I will do just waiting for compression tools to turn up.

RangeRoller dt - Like that post you done, looked good until the unfortunate happened! I have owned it for 2 years, done about 1,500 miles, it has run sweet, only issue I posted about before was overheating above 70+ MPH, which could be a rad, cracked head or head gasket or all (I managed to turn engine off before it totally overheated but it might have done from prev.owner). I did get a slight weep from the oil cap and around cam cover gasket but nothing major at all and it didn't seem to be under any pressure when removed. It always had a diesel leak which turned out to be rotted return pipes and lift pump failing on the connections to pump leaking fuel and letting air in.

I have probably f#@*ed up somewhere but I have done a process of elimination but still trying to find the actual issue, as all have suggested it could have skipped a cog, dodgy injectors, cracked head, worn cylinders, it goes on.

On a positive note it is not my main car but I just I knew 100% what the issue is but it looks like we are getting closer!

The RR is a 96 so similar to you engine set up on your post.

PS need to check that filter in cam cover see if that is clogged I see that in your post