P38A Diesel lift pump replaced still not starting

Will do hopefully if can get this sorted I can contribute by doing a post if anyone has the same issue.

We love pics

More info of actual completed jobs without loose ends betterer for all of us

Gents, been searching the forum and cannot find a direct article on how to guide to check the timing, got RAVE but wanted to see if there was a guide on here please?

Lukas018 said:

Gents, been searching the forum and cannot find a direct article on how to guide to check the timing, got RAVE but wanted to see if there was a guide on here please?

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Don't think any of us bothered as RAVE was easy to follow. Was there anything you felt uncertain about?

Just read RAVE as you say quite informative will just follow that. Cheers.

Lukas018 said:

Just read RAVE as you say quite informative will just follow that. Cheers.

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I found a breaker bar on the crank was nice and long and allowed me to very finely control the angle when turning the engine and looking at the dial. Dial can be a bit fiddly so do it until it is consistent 3 times on the trot. That way you don't have to take it all apart again. Gently Bentley tightening the pump bolts back up or it strips and you really sh!t yourself. I was touching cloth when i did it

Front cover is an a***. Ask if you not sure

Will do hopefully a member will be fitting a refurbished FIP tomorrow with all the tools see if we can get it going. But was concerned on the amount of oil on inlet of cylinders 4 and 5 (see photo), valves look to open and close ok so I hope I dont have worn piston rings. Let me know your thoughts. Also I couldn't see a timing mark on cam sprocket unless there isn't one?

Lukas018 said:

Will do hopefully a member will be fitting a refurbished FIP tomorrow with all the tools see if we can get it going. But was concerned on the amount of oil on inlet of cylinders 4 and 5 (see photo), valves look to open and close ok so I hope I dont have worn piston rings. Let me know your thoughts. Also I couldn't see a timing mark on cam sprocket unless there isn't one?

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There isn't one.if the member has all the tools and you follow Rave there shouldn't be a problem. Good luck

tomcat59alan said:

There isn't one.if the member has all the tools and you follow Rave there shouldn't be a problem. Good luck

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Ahh I see cheers pal will update tomorrow

The oil will most likely be from the inlet manifold, the gasket/ oring may need replacing?

Good Evening All.

Not good news. First of all I would like to tha k ovalandrover for his help today in fitting his refurbished FIP which did not cure the non-starting and running issue. However we have ruled out a faulty FIP.

The car did come into life briefly as it did not idle, we run it enough on high revs for the nanacom only to say an invalid major fault no codes.

The timing was checked on both FIP and chains all in order.

So I am at a complete loss. The Engine does not sound good I can only suspect a damaged valve or piston damage.

As the engine is half stripped I may aswell remove the head and see what we have.

Very frustrated as back to square one.

If anyone has had this before be great to welcome your views.

I will add photos when head is off and see what we have

Try timing an M62 V8 with shít tools and no Rave


It'll get there in the end.

You can pressure test the cylinders easily/cheaply. Just take the glow plugs out.

If it’s an injector it’s probably No.4/sensor

Oil does get pushed through into the manifold by the turbo, which can build up over time. If it’s that bad your intercooler is likely clogged. I had it around cyl 1 & 2 like that. Clean out and new manifold gaskets it’s fine.

Thanks I will pressure test cylinders see what they read but when it was cranking pressure seemed ok.

Oil wise yea I cleaned the inter cooler out already think seals need doing.

Do you know socket size for injectors please sure I see 27mm somewhere?

Thanks

Yes 27mm,
You need a window socket like this for inj.4 - (thankyou Bagshot)
Be careful how you twirl the connector wires around they get brittle with age/heat.

RangeRoller dt said:

Yes 27mm,
You need a window socket like this for inj.4 -
View attachment 190769 Be careful how you twirl the connector wires around they get brittle with age/heat.

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Thanks will do. Is it worth doing a leak back test to test injectors?

I don’t know I’m afraid. I only know to substitute them over to pinpoint one playing up. Would have to try a known no4 from a donor vehicle in your case.

Ask Wammers is your best bet for anything M51. Hes here often

They have to be set with a proper crack-tester and shims so don’t pull them apart, or if you get refurbed ones make sure they are from a reputable supplier. New ones are crazy money (no4 worst) And the sensor is a non-serviceable part no matter what’s on YouTube

Injectors are torqued to 48lb/ft (65Nm)
Bit of coppaslip on em, check copper washers - anneal/or renew on assembly