DESPERATE fuse 9 failure after door lock issues

Hi,

I have been battling to rectify my front door locks for ages. After reading all threads and help I thought i had the problem solved. Bought yet another driver lock and tested it by plugging it in (before attaching to the door) and this one seemed to work. the passenger one still wasnt working (black lead on, it ny locked on fob but said open. Black lead off, it only unlocked on fob). So I was getting there slowly. As I had to pick the kids up, i didnt have chance to put the new driver lock on, so attached the plugs (6 pin and seperate ground) back in the original so i could secure the car. However, when I went to start the car it flashed 'fuse 9 failure'. the fuse is actually fine, but now i have no power to windows or doors in front. I know they are all connected by fuse 9, but have no idea what top do next. Please someone hlep as my back cant stand much more crouching and twisting with locks etc (currently recovering from spinal surgery, so everything is a huge effort still). Steve

Stevetheplant said:

Hi,

I have been battling to rectify my front door locks for ages. After reading all threads and help I thought i had the problem solved. Bought yet another driver lock and tested it by plugging it in (before attaching to the door) and this one seemed to work. the passenger one still wasnt working (black lead on, it ny locked on fob but said open. Black lead off, it only unlocked on fob). So I was getting there slowly. As I had to pick the kids up, i didnt have chance to put the new driver lock on, so attached the plugs (6 pin and seperate ground) back in the original so i could secure the car. However, when I went to start the car it flashed 'fuse 9 failure'. the fuse is actually fine, but now i have no power to windows or doors in front. I know they are all connected by fuse 9, but have no idea what top do next. Please someone hlep as my back cant stand much more crouching and twisting with locks etc (currently recovering from spinal surgery, so everything is a huge effort still). Steve

Click to expand...

The electronics will say that a fuse has blown because it detects that the circuit is open. If the fuse is ok (and you've checked the fuse socket and wiring underneath) then I'd suggest that you might want to investigate the wiring where it passes from door into the pillar and the multi-pin connectors behind the kick panels in each foot well. In the first you might find a broken wire or two and in the second corrosion and maybe broken pins.

dogsbody said:

The electronics will say that a fuse has blown because it detects that the circuit is open. If the fuse is ok (and you've checked the fuse socket and wiring underneath) then I'd suggest that you might want to investigate the wiring where it passes from door into the pillar and the multi-pin connectors behind the kick panels in each foot well. In the first you might find a broken wire or two and in the second corrosion and maybe broken pins.

Click to expand...

+1....wiring to/from the door to pillar are common areas for issues!

thanks guys. Previously I was geting continuity to both outstations, and voltage from both fuse 9 and 22 wires. After the fault I checked the fuse (fine) and the socket which shows it's still live. My worry is 'Why is there no power to 'either' outstation now. If it was a rogue wire I would have thought only one outstation would be affected. Can I check simply pull out plug C326 and C362 from the BECM while the battery is connected, and check if there is voltage getting to those sockets, therefore establishing whether the fault is inside the BECM, or indeed the wiring. I'm scared I could upset the programming of the BECM if I unplug anything with the battery connected. IF it is the BECM, can I bypass th BECM and rig up a fused connection from fuse 9 socket directly to the wire?

A quick update. I have just disconnected the battery and accessed the BECM. I removed the plugs and tested the continuity on both the Purple/blue and pruple/black leads on each plug C323 and plug 361 (bugger to get to, but managed carefully). Al l4 wires showed continuity from the plug to the outstation. Also all 4 blakc ground wires are showing continuity when tested to earth. then, while the battery was still off, out of curiosity, I tested if there was any continuity between ground and live wires. on both outstations the result was the same. 1 ground lead showed continuity to both live feeds while the other ground lead didn't. Does that mean anything? Or does it now sound like a BECM fault. I am not sure how to check for a short but do have a multi meter if anyone can talk me through it. I want to eliminate all possible causes before I weep at the thought of a BECM problem. when I put it all back together and re connected the battery nothing had changed, still NO supply to either outstation, and the fuse 9 failed warning still there.