Decisions, decisions... Purchase advice wanted!

Please point me in the correct location, or help me out here with the tough decisions!
I've been reading some posts on this forum and others, as well as other guides, YouTube videos, etc as I'm trying to decide if I should buy a Land Rover, or not.

I'm hoping you can help me?


We're expanding the family and I have some outdoor hobbies that require the use of a bigger car to ferry often children (x2 under 2) and wife (x1) around and occasionally lift and shift tools, parts, materials, and equipment.
I also plan on dog(s) in the future.
I foresee a need to tow a small trailer too.
I see this purchase as a 5+ year car.

We recently bought a new 'SUV' which is ok on loose surfaces, but won't handle mud and makes my heart ache when I drive it through an overgrown hedge protruding into one of the many lanes near where we live. It's also supposed to be kept clean inside, despite my better half's efforts.

I think I need a legitimate and capable 4wd that is sensible and flexible enough to stick the kids in for a weekend camping trip, go fishing, drive through the fields, throw dirty dogs, boots children and wife in.
Something we can use and have adventures in but that also looks smart enough that my wife will drive it.
I would like to think that given the right car and opportunity I would also have a crack at a few green lanes a year, but this isn't a deciding factor.

I don't need it to be ULEZ compliant as we can drive the new enviro-friendly hybrid (45mpg ) into town. But I'd like to kid myself into believing I might be able to get something that would do 35+ in normal conditions! And... as the government continues to price-out older cars through tax, I think getting a euro 5 would be a good move, at least to help stave off the inevitable hikes as long as possible.

I started looking at a Discovery - all ages, preferably pre-air sus (or converted) and wrote of the Freelander 1 on the advice of a friend, but have since come back around to the Freelander 2 on account of more positive reviews. I prefer the FL2 looks and interior feel over FL1.
In the class, the FL2 seems the best all-rounder and the economy looks ok on the 2.2 TDE. I don't need a farm truck, and figure the slightly smaller option (over Discovery) might be best suited for my daily and frequent countryside needs.
Would rather not blow the family savings on a car I'll probably only drive 2-5k a year in, but £6-7k in the south west seems about right for a tidy 2010 FL2 with around 80k on the clock(?)

Full disclosure - I'm pretty sold on a FL2 at the moment, but not the price in the used market, I'd be much happier sub-5k, but firmly believe in the old saying - buy cheap, buy twice.
Before I go digging around the money tree I'd really appreciate any advice or opinion from those who have lived with one and perhaps have similar use cases.
I'm happy to be told that I'm barking up the wrong tree and that a cheaper, Korean alternative would suit me better!

I'm also handy around engines, so can change water pumps, radiators, belts etc. I can't lift transmissions out or rebuild blocks and I've been known to MIG weld

Any advice welcome, pitfalls (my research shows nothing out of the ordinary, unlikle Disco air sus), etc.

I think if you got an F2, you'd end up driving it more than you think

I'd be wary about anything earlier than a 2010 as the rear diffs are notoriously poor. What ever you get - make sure you give the haldex a good service.

Having owned a FL2 for just over 2 years, I can say that it's more comfortable, better equipped (model depending) and safer than the FL1.

However it's not so home repair friendly, and the bits that do fail costs more to repair or replace than the same or equivalent part on a FL1.

The 2.2 diesel is pretty reliable, as long as it's been maintained correctly, and on time with the correct oil.
Mine is a euro 4, so is more powerful than a euro 5 (I don't know when the E5 was released), but I don't think it makes much difference to the cost of RFL.
MPG wise, ignore the official figures as I don't get them, averaging about 31 MPG on my Cornish A/B roads.
On the motorway, keeping to 70 I see 36 MPG, dropping to 60 MPH the MPG climbs to low the 40s.

Reliability seems reasonable, but there are some failure points.
The rear diff is made of cheese, and failures are common, regardless of age of the vehicle. There is a theory that rough handling before the diff is even fitted to the vehicle is responsible for the diff tail bearing failure.
Listen for noise on a test drive, as the rear diff should be silent, if not it'll need replacing.
The Haldex is often neglected too, these need fluid and filter changes at 30k intervals to remain healthy, unfortunately LR decided that a 150k fluid change would do (same for all driveline components), so many units fail long before that service is reached.

Wheel bearings fail, but aren't difficult or too expensive to replace.
Shocks are another failure point, the rears suffering the worst here, often lasting 100k miles or so.
Brakes are worked hard on the FL2 (they're straight from a Mondeo), so expect to replace pads and rotors when you get one (owners don't seem to bother with brakes now) but being plucked from a Ford, they are easy and cheap to replace.
The engine suffers the usual for a diesel, so EGR valves sticking, injector failures, throttle bodies and that's about it.
There have been a few that have suffered exhaust cam breakage, but that's are from common.
The timing belt is a 10 year 150k mile interval, and ideally the water pump and all tensioners should be replaced at the same time. It's about a 3 hour job, so don't expect to pay over the odds for that.
Oil and filters need 6k changes to keep the engine healthy.

The FL2 is electronically very complicated, so there will always be failures with various control modules (there are some 30 modules in these), but mostly it's pretty reliable.
The steering lock and key dock can be unreliable, or at least suffer from wear, but once replaced the problem goes away.

I do wonder sometimes if I should get something small, but the Freelander is just so nice to drive, it's worth the extra money and effort over something more boring.

I've answered on original post but ill add it again here.

Heya and welcome, I have a fl2 and don't go for the e if you want to handle a bit of mud as its 2wheel drive. have a manual 2.2 td4 and its fab. I don't have children to worry about so that may invalidate my opinion. However, when I have had adult passengers in the back they have said it's got a good amount of leg room. What is the other car you have? I am not sure if it is posh to drive as I bought it for other reasons. If you are wanted nice specs go xs or above.

if you are ok with engines and want to do your own services get hold of a 27mm low profile socket or a 27mm flexible head ratchet spanner as the design of the oil filter must have been a joke at the designers.

Thankyou all for your responses!

WhiskyLassie said:

I've answered on original post but ill add it again here.

... What is the other car you have? ...

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We have a new Hyandai Tucson, and an old Peugeot 306, which the new purchase would replace. I'm not super fussed on the poshness, but we do like the looks of the FL2

richhemmings said:

Thankyou all for your responses!


We have a new Hyandai Tucson, and an old Peugeot 306, which the new purchase would replace. I'm not super fussed on the poshness, but we do like the looks of the FL2

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It's a lovely looking car. They age well.

richhemmings said:

I'm not super fussed on the poshness, but we do like the looks of the

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I'd avoid low spec models, as you'll miss the bits that are missing, and the lower spec vehicles don't hold their value, as buyers want higher spec models.
I'd suggest going for the XS, SE or HSE, and avoid the base and S models altogether, as they're really lacking.
A heated front screen is a must, and the auto lights and wipers on the higher models just make it a more modern feeling vehicle.

Hi all,

I think I've found one!
Grey FL2 TD4 (150 PS) HSE, good nick all round - save for the alloys that have oxidised and need refurb, and a few touched-up stone chips here and there. FSH (by LR dealers).
116k / 2012 (62 plate).
No advisories on MOT since 2017 when the brake discs and pads needed replacing.
It hasn't had its 10year/150k cambelt change but the dealer would include this and water pump for the asking price.
I scrabbled around underneath it and everything looked ok - the valet had missed some mud in the door arches, but apart from that very clean and tidy underneath and inside the bonnet.
The only one thing I picked up on was a spot of gunge at the front left of the engine -- going along the left hand side of the head but disappearing under the plastic cover. I'm guessing its an oil line?

2 questions for the team --

• Can someone tell me what the gunge is from the image? Also -- after a 10 mile run, no new wet stuff so I don't think I need to be concerned?
• What is the right price to pay? I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this, but wanted the experts to weigh in, just in case!

Thanks in advance.
Rich

Looks like a weepy power steering pipe joint.

It's very unusual for the PS pipe (that is the primary Power Steering fluid supply line) to leak in that area.


It's likely that some oil was dripped off an oil filter when it was removed and onto that pipe, but wasn't cleaned off.
It could also be from the crankcase breather which has migrated there from the normal leak point under the engine cover.
It's of no real concern, but you could clean it with brake cleaner to make it look better.

A 2012 should have 7 year or 90k mile timing belt change intervals, so it's either been done once or is several years late.

Price wise, they seem to hold the money, but some dealers are really taking the mickey with them.
You have to ask yourself, are you happy to pay the price asked, considering it's a 12 year old car with slight under average mileage.

Thanks, both - and special thanks to @Nodge68 for all your help on this thread.
Here's the car: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202302204466728.
From all I've seen, on balance, this is well-priced. I'm happy to pay it but as it's been a long while since I've bought a second-hand car and have no LR experience.
FSH and clean MOTs clinched it for me over the mileage.

richhemmings said:

From all I've seen, on balance, this is well-priced. I'm happy to pay it but as it's been a long while since I've bought a second-hand car and have no LR experience.
FSH and clean MOTs clinched it for me over the mileage

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It's a nice looking FL2 facelift that one.
It's got all the toys, and the price seems very reasonable too.
How is it with the clean air zone in Bristol? We were there last night to watch the Lionesses play Belgium ladies. We had to do some messing about to avoid the stupid clean air routes, as the wife's VW isn't modern enough to enter without paying.

I don't think you need to be overly concerned about it being a Land Rover because it's not. Its mostly Ford, with some bits from Volvo and PSA thrown in. Like most modern cars, it's a mix n match of parts from different manufacturers, all bolted to a nice strong LR body.

Nodge68 said:

It's a nice looking FL2 facelift that one.
It's got all the toys, and the price seems very reasonable too.
How is it with the clean air zone in Bristol? We were there last night to watch the Lionesses play Belgium ladies. We had to do some messing about to avoid the stupid clean air routes, as the wife's VW isn't modern enough to enter without paying.

I don't think you need to be overly concerned about it being a Land Rover because it's not. Its mostly Ford, with some bits from Volvo and PSA thrown in. Like most modern cars, it's a mix n match of parts from different manufacturers, all bolted to a nice strong LR body.

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My daughter's diesel Golf has to pay the charge in Bristol, where she lives.

But strangely, it is ULEZ compliant in London.

Some of this stuff is pretty random.

Turboman said:

My daughter's diesel Golf has to pay the charge in Bristol, where she lives.

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I wouldn't pay, I'd move or ride a bike.

We went on the park and ride to avoid all this clean air BS.

Nodge68 said:

I wouldn't pay, I'd move or ride a bike.

We went on the park and ride to avoid all this clean air BS.

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She doesn't use the car very much, except for out of Town trips.
She has an off road parking space, and goes to work on the train.
So she is just paying the charge occasionally, when she uses the car, rather than getting a new car.

Bristol council will take a tenner a day off me for driving the FL2 in. But the hybrid is free, so we'll use that for trips into town... we don't go that often.
We live outside the city where you're more likely to encounter a combine than a copper!
Really appreciate all the advice, taking another trip to the dealership on Monday to get a final opinion from my better half, given she'll be driving it a few times a week

I'd be pretty tempted with that one for that money to be honest. It looks pretty good and as has been said, some dealer prices can be fairly high! I'd just want an auto!

richhemmings said:

Thanks, both - and special thanks to @Nodge68 for all your help on this thread.
Here's the car: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202302204466728.
From all I've seen, on balance, this is well-priced. I'm happy to pay it but as it's been a long while since I've bought a second-hand car and have no LR experience.
FSH and clean MOTs clinched it for me over the mileage.

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And only two previous owners. Assume 1 got rid at 1st MOT (not unusual, that's when I acquired mine). And 2nd owner hung on to it for several years.
And it's even got a dog guard! Looks like a good 'un.

kernowsvenski said:

I'd be pretty tempted with that one for that money to be honest. It looks pretty good and as has been said, some dealer prices can be fairly high! I'd just want an auto!

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It's the manual box which is keeping the price down. An auto would be £2k more expensive to buy, but also more expensive to run.

Nodge68 said:

It's the manual box which is keeping the price down. An auto would be £2k more expensive to buy, but also more expensive to run.

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Not if you habitually use the tiptronic box and change up manually. 37+mpg achievable.

Got to admit, if that one was auto I'd be sorely tempted.