Dave Smith's Freelander

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davidsmith1307 said:
I got the whole thing off but still can't shift the bolt as I don't have a suitable vice (just alcohol and Land Rovers).
pWhorvHF1wIvOwzOitHpVqcrHbym7SSADua55f7JzKDVLoXwrdqFHexcS8MMdOfQe-bdEIAxW5hJVCCVaffcZ16fYmL7u4ClvrpQOB7T0cXhGtxjrokxssvVPlTQzR83Ej-RmC-EhGZ5iDRG9Q0reZbbcG9S2TfogKZbxQV-7rq8bL0mSln0ah3CxQyKAMxOyjo6MRIce86h9y0I28HNcGhH2Ol8QCcfsZ2aho9t-6pk3StOvb87Y1qBWmvgIF0rjvMyX4TG_CWtGRzd9U9986jUTk7AJu870sboo-dLTlfpF4j_UYGUg9PVv1PBknN9CEJQapf2H60wsw0knuReJqjRHfgw0mI0_33EAemL8m06nVVrcGKAKRlU5kmg-zxNjR7CuUi0Sh4YllcPmTCgS2Xl6mgOHeVHLggxjqhM9jc2lpNiFgN0d-9gPPVW1VM4MPVLhqKikFYS29CAvqJy6RkvVu3hFhb_c2rpT1SVAtU19D3xsP579StDSs_2AJi0WbdWY7qzESqM2T17PUbRThYQy7SHD87jMofM5IoT3uEVhgkTlz4A4iGq9mZHnbppfjsGCW-WkLE9pd0GyJD6Iz5oGAoSfc08Gw3KdGI=w879-h1171-no
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I suspect that bolt has been wound up cross threaded with a powerful windy gun.
You'll probably only get it out by the same method.
It might be easier to find some replacements for reassembly.
 
Nodge68 said:
I suspect that bolt has been wound up cross threaded with a powerful windy gun.
You'll probably only get it out by the same method.
It might be easier to find some replacements for reassembly.
Click to expand...
I suspect you are correct but the tight-arse gene is dominant in my family.
 
davidsmith1307 said:
I suspect you are correct but the tight-arse gene is dominant in my family.
Click to expand...

I'm the same and would have a go at splitting it apart. There's a risk that the bolt could break off though. It is much easier to install the assembly into the vehicle in two sections, which is why it's made the way it is.
;)
 
I'll stick it in the back of the car with a big breaker bar and see if I can do it at work. If it snaps then meh, nothing lost really.

The one bolt that is left isn't even tight - I don't know if it was always like that or whether all my efforts and a broken bar have managed a quarter turn.
 
davidsmith1307 said:
:D
See the glove in the first picture. That is my "mustn't get ****e on the posh phone" hand.
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Alibro said:
I wear similar gloves all the time but the cotton bits get soaked in oil and grease in short order so that my hands get dirty just putting them on. :(
And of course I'm too tight to chuck them out. :oops:
Click to expand...

On the subject of said style of gloves, the ones you might see in Aldi are as much use as a chocolate fireguard and decintegrated after their first encounter with some diesel

I can however recomend Wilko's version of the same things, which had laster umpteen fuel fitler and oil changes and even a head gasket
 
OK brains trust.
Does anyone know if the engine mountings in my last lot of pictures changed between early and late 1.8 engines? Normally I'd look up part numbers on Allbrit but I don't seem to be able to do that any more.
Also, who does the best belts and water pumps nowadays? Going to replace all the belts, watery and whirly bits.
 
At last. Time!
PAS and alternator belts off, lined up cams to take the old belt off.
Now this looks odd to me - the cam sprockets don't line up neatly like in RAVE. It looks like the left cam has gone too far and the right not far enough - like the old belt was on wrong.
Thoughts please.
AND is it necessary to lock the flywheel for this procedure or is that just belt and braces? Haynes suggests stamping on the brake to get the crank pulley off and only locking the flywheel if the engine is coming out. I don't want to fight the rusty starter motor bolts if I don't have to.
20180818_164120.jpg 20180818_164125.jpg 20180818_164104.jpg
 
davidsmith1307 said:
At last. Time!
PAS and alternator belts off, lined up cams to take the old belt off.
Now this looks odd to me - the cam sprockets don't line up neatly like in RAVE. It looks like the left cam has gone too far and the right not far enough - like the old belt was on wrong.
Thoughts please.
AND is it necessary to lock the flywheel for this procedure or is that just belt and braces? Haynes suggests stamping on the brake to get the crank pulley off and only locking the flywheel if the engine is coming out. I don't want to fight the rusty starter motor bolts if I don't have to.
View attachment 155957 View attachment 155963 View attachment 155964
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They don't look horizontal to me or is that just a trick of the photo. Maybe you need to do another rotation of the engine to get them lined up.
 
Last edited:
Alibro said:
They don't look horizontal to me or is that just a trick of the photo. Maybe you need to do another rotation of the engine to get them lined up.
Click to expand...
It's no trick. I'd say one tooth out. And that's before I've been at it!
I'll do another lap and see what happens.
 
davidsmith1307 said:
It's no trick. I'd say one tooth out. And that's before I've been at it!
I'll do another lap and see what happens.
Click to expand...
Maybe they have been out of alignment the whole time. I suspect a lot of timing belts have been fitted wrongly and the car driven anyway.
What marks are you using for the crank alignment, have you removed the pulley?
 
Looks like the exhaust cam is one tooth advanced and the inlet cam is one tooth retarded. Once the belt is off, you need to correct this and lock the cams off again.


When the bottom damper pulley is off, you'll see the timing dots on the timing belt pulley. These dots need to be positioned each side of the pointer on the oil pump housing.

I'd remove the cam locking tool before releasing the crank bolt, or you can damage the cams or pulleys should they turn with the bolt.
 
Nodge68 said:
Looks like the exhaust cam is one tooth advanced and the inlet cam is one tooth retarded. Once the belt is off, you need to correct this and lock the cams off again.


When the bottom damper pulley is off, you'll see the timing dots on the timing belt pulley. These dots need to be positioned each side of the pointer on the oil pump housing.

I'd remove the cam locking tool before releasing the crank bolt, or you can damage the cams or pulleys should they turn with the bolt.
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Cheers @Nodge68 .
My concern was which pulley is correct, if either. So essentially have to time it up from scratch.
It makes me wonder how it drove. Perhaps that's why it was left to rot at the back of a car yard. I've not driven it more than 100yds since I've had it!
I'll get the bottom pulley off and see what's what and be back for further advice.
 
davidsmith1307 said:
My concern was which pulley is correct, if either. So essentially have to time it up from scratch.
Click to expand...

It's easy to line up the pulleys correctly. Place a straight edge through the centre of the pulley bolts. The marks on the pulleys should be in line with the straight edge. So you need to turn the pulleys so there's a straight line through the centre of the pulley bolts and the lines on the pulleys. ;)
 
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